Back down to Desolation Sound area...

Huaskin Lake... easily accessed from Turnbull Cove

Weather in the Broughtons improved somewhat (it's all relative... highs were never more than 15°C), so we kept exploring, including Joe Cove (new to us, as was Monday Anchorage), Waddington Bay, Cullen Harbour, and Turnbull Cove. Sadly, our cruising buddies Gillian and David on SV Carousel decided to head back south after Waddington Bay (our social "bubble" burst, decreasing to 4).

Turnbull was new to us. An excellent anchorage (and not crowded this year), its cold water was chocolate brown from nearby streams. But it held a treat: a 10-minute hike uphill brings one to Huaskin Lake, with a convenient dock and ladder for swimming. Surprisingly, the water temperature was quite comfortable for a swim. We also enjoyed socializing with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter (part of our original 6-person social "bubble").

Turnbull Cove was technically the furthest north we would go this year, but we did venture further west to Blunden Harbour. Blunden is a favourite, but this time we got to endure 12 hours of winds, gusting to 27 knots. Fortunately, there was plenty of space and good holding (mud), so we didn't budge. Still, never "fun".

We then headed across to Port McNeill to reprovision, opting to stay 2 nights to be more relaxed. Besides, Port McNeill deserves it, being so welcoming during these COVID-19 times (in contrast with Sointula, which we normally prefer, but we skipped this year as they are not being so "open" to visiting boaters).

After McNeill, we headed back into the Broughtons, staying a night behind Dead Point, which had too many commercial crab traps (far too common an issue in the area) but was nice and quiet (we were solo). Then we rejoined Chanter in Port Harvey, with a plan to head down Johnstone Strait in the early morning.

After our slow trip bucking the flood tide coming up Johnstone 3 weeks earlier, we were worried going in the morning when the ebb was in play would again be a problem. It wasn't. We had a great sail down Johnstone Strait, then Sunderland Channel. We temporarily anchored for lunch (KD time on Pelagia) waiting for Whirlpool Rapids to quiet down, then sailed again up Chancellor Channel, all the way to Greene Point rapids (where we reached 11 knots going with the flood). Altogether, we sailed half the distance. A good day, with our hydrovane Finn doing a great job.

A night anchored in Cordero Islands (and dinner with Chanter), then we headed through the Yaculta Rapids (surprisingly devoid of usual many gin palaces... well, there was one) and down to the Desolation Sound area, to Hathayim/Von Donop Inlet.

Here in Von Donop, the weather has been hot (30°C) and the water warm (20°C) for swimming. Although far busier than the Broughtons (or Von Donop last month) , the 34 boats total on  our first night back are far less than the usual 50-60 boats of normal years. (Indeed, yesterday and today, the numbers have dropped to 15-20 boats.)

We expect to be home no later than August 7-10th. Until then? Plans are flexible.

To the Broughtons...

SVs Carousel, Pelagia and Chanter anchored in Monday Anchorage

 

After nearly a month in the Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area, it was time to move on.

Our time in Desolation Sound started with nearly empty anchorages combined with only "warmish" air and (sea) water temperatures (too cold for us to swim). By the end, seas had warmed up so that we were enjoying swimming, there were some sunny days, and the anchorages definitely becoming busy. Not the pre-Covid-19 stupid-busy with 60-80 boats (and often majority American boats), but busy such that we'd see 15-20 (Canadian) boats. Call it "Canadian busy".

So it was time to move on.

We headed to the Broughtons, with hope of empty anchorages, mild bucolic days, and wildlife. We got some of this, including many black bear sightings, a close-up in our kayaks with a wading grizzly bear, and many whale sightings.

Getting to the Broughtons, however, included a real slog bucking the tide in Johnstone Strait (wasn't supposed to be a flood with 5+ knots against us!) that happily ended with a great 9-mile sail (steered by Finn, our windvane).

The weather for the first week in the Broughtons was better than forecasted, allowing for many kayak trips. But never that warm. The past few days, unfortunately, have been soaked with torrential rains and some wind. And the coming week has rainfall predicted every day.
Making us consider returning south (well, actually east) back down Johnstone to Desolation and perhaps home.

But first, we are giving it another try in the northern Broughtons. Currently, we are anchored in "Monday Anchorage" (don't be fooled by its name: Monday is not a good anchorage in windy weather), waiting/hoping for the rain to let up.

We shall see....


Update: the rain did indeed end, in time for drinks in the cockpit before dinner.