We are currently at the docks in Sointula, enjoying warm sun (well, "hot" to us) and a respite from the fog (sort of... the fog comes in at night but burns off by morning).
We had a very foggy passage around Cape Caution; never did catch a glimpse of it, with visibility of only 1/4 to 1/2 nautical miles for hours. Shortened the trip from Pruth Bay by stopping for the night at Millbrook Cove in Smith Sound (which was very foggy but calm and quiet), then next day going around to Miles Inlet (also foggy).. [SV Carousel continued on, so we may not see them the rest of this trip.]. Next morning, we woke up tothick fog, but were pleasantly surprised to have it lift for most of the calm (6 hour) motor to Sointula.
It's easy down south here in Sointula (relaxing with mod cons such as CBC radio reception, cell phone with data, internet sortof, and stores etc). And did we say it is (relatively) hot here? Well, low-mid 20s with sun sure seems a bit warm to us. It might be hard when we reach the upper 20s and even low 30s they are having in Desolation and further south.
Sunday, 29 July 2018
Wednesday, 25 July 2018
Back south to Hakai...
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| At "The Lookout" in Hakai (note the fog coming back in...) |
After three nights in the Bella Bella/Shearwater area (1 night at docks in Shearwater, 1 night in quiet, isolated Kakushdish Harbour, and 1 night in Fancy Cove), we headed down south to Pruth Bay. The main attraction being able to go for a walk/hike in Hakai. (The free Wifi, albeit with limits and slow, from the Hakai Institute is nice too....)
Foggy nights and mornings, with mostly sun in the afternoon, it really is a beautiful place. Busy anchorage, but good.
Enough for three nights!
Sunday, 22 July 2018
Shear(water) crazy!
After being in Haida Gwaii for nearly a month, arriving in the Bella Bella/Shearwater area is quite a shock. In one day in Shearwater, we saw more cruising boats than we have in the previous 6 weeks. (Most of our anchorages in Gwaii Haanas were just us.) Shearwater was especially crazy (though Christophe the Shearwater harbourmaster does an admirable job managing the boats).
Food shopping at Shearwater was "ok"; the new store in Bella Bella is far superior,
We are currently anchored in Fancy Cove in Lama Passage, a few miles south of Bella Bella/Shearwater. We may head south to Pruth Bay tomorrow.
Food shopping at Shearwater was "ok"; the new store in Bella Bella is far superior,
We are currently anchored in Fancy Cove in Lama Passage, a few miles south of Bella Bella/Shearwater. We may head south to Pruth Bay tomorrow.
Friday, 20 July 2018
Goodbye Haida Gwaii... Hecate Strait crossing completed
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| Leaving Haida Gwaii (looking back at Houston Stewart Channel) |
We are now in the Seaforth Channel area on B.C's mainland coast, having completed our overnight passage from Rose Harbour on Kunghit Island (bottom of Haida Gwaii).
Our last night in Haid Gwai, we celebrated by having an excellent dinner at Susan's in Rose Harour (cooked/organized by Francis). Leaving Rose Harbour at 10am the next morning, we arrived on the other side of Hecate Strait off the McInnis Island light at 510am, and had our anchor down in Berry Inlet by 9am. A quick breakfast then a 3-hr much-needed sleep.
The crossing was 103 nm, 54 of which we sailed. The first half was very frustrating, with not quite enough winds to sail especially with rolly seas. The last half was just the opposite: a wonderful, comfortable easy sail requiring no sail trimming and only occasional course corrections. When David was on watch, he used Finn our Hydrovane; Michelle preferred Waggie our Wagner autopilot.
We had to up-anchor and move to a better anchorage in the afternoon. But then had a celebratory dinner on Pelagia with David and Gillian from SV Carousel.
A great trip in Haida Gwaii -- the best of our three trips there!
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| Dinner at Susan's in Rose Harbour (Michelle, Gillian, David & David) |
Sunday, 15 July 2018
SGang Gwaay Haida Heritage Site
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| SGang Gwaay Haida Heritage Site |
Nearing SGang Gwaay, we saw puffins on the largest of the Adams Rocks - always a thrill to see these birds.
The watchman at SGang Gwaay warned us that the tide was too low to use the North Cove -- he was right, we checked anyways -- and we continued the extra mile to "South Cove" (noted as Gray's Cove" on charts). The extra distance was protected and we enjoyed the low-tide wildlife along the way (although now there are far too many sea urchins... sea otters are needed).
A little bit of a surf-landing at the South Cove for both our dinghies (Carousel and Pelagia), but we made it OK. We were met by young Haida Watchman Torrey, who gave us an enjoyable tour. This is our 3rd visit to SGang Gwaay, yet we still learned new facts. And the site is so beautiful.
Having been here in 2002 and 2011, we definitely noticed the deterioration of the many totem (mortuary) poles. Haida believe they should be left to deteriorate and fall as the natural way of things, thus this is what is happening. We wonder what the site will look like in another 10-20 years.
[We were the first visitors to come to day. But as we finished our tour, group tours started "lining up" to come in. It was going to be a busy day for the 2 watchmen. Parks Canada limits all group sizes to a maximum of 12 persons.]
Uneventful (safe) dinghy ride back to the boats, albeit a little wet as the wind was picking up and blowing spray on us. Wind was up to 21 knots into the anchorage. As I write this, I am hoping it abates by dinner.
Update: the wind did end by about 8pm....
Ikeda Cove to Rose Harbour and on to Louscoone Inlet
After a day-and-a-half (2 nights) relaxing in Ikeda Cove (including a dip in beautiful but very cold Ikeda Creek), we decided to head around to Rode Harbour. As it turned out, the first 1.5 hours was a very uncomfortable rolly-polly motor with moderately-large seas (due to opposing current coming out of the inlets) and little wind. Things smoothed out soon after passing Garcin Rocks and we arrived relatively quickly at Rose Harbour due to a 1-2 knot current in our favour. In 2002 and 2011, we had had great dinners by Susan who lives in rose Harbour and does dinner for kayak groups, etc. We were lucky getting the single mooring buoy in Rose Harbour (not 3 as suggested by guide books) but learned there was no space for dinner until July 17th. We made a reservation for July 17th, even though our tentative plan was to do an overnight passage leaving Haida Gwaii on the 16th. One never knows with weather. (FYI: Susan is semi-retired, but now Charlotte-local Francis has joined Susan's team for cooking, etc. Contact Susan/Francis on VHF channel 6 by calling "Old Squaw".)
As we could not do dinner that night (or next day), we decided to continue on to Louscoone Inlet, to set us up to visit SGang Gwaay Haida Heritage Site (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) the next morning.
No other boat was in Louscoone's Etches Point Cove, but also, the mooring buoy of past years was also no longer there. So we had to anchor (Pelagia anchored in somewhat deep water -- 60' -- after being surprised by much much shallower water than up-to-date charts indicated... we may have touched the sandy bottom).
The winds really picked-up in the afternoon -- oddly, straight into the cove -- but died off by dinner time.
As we could not do dinner that night (or next day), we decided to continue on to Louscoone Inlet, to set us up to visit SGang Gwaay Haida Heritage Site (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) the next morning.
No other boat was in Louscoone's Etches Point Cove, but also, the mooring buoy of past years was also no longer there. So we had to anchor (Pelagia anchored in somewhat deep water -- 60' -- after being surprised by much much shallower water than up-to-date charts indicated... we may have touched the sandy bottom).
The winds really picked-up in the afternoon -- oddly, straight into the cove -- but died off by dinner time.
Friday, 13 July 2018
POSITION REPORT: Ikeda Cove
TIME: 2018/07/14 03:31 UTC (2018/07/13 20:31 PDT)
LATITUDE: 52-17.79N
LONGITUDE: 131-09.40W
COMMENT: anchored Ikeda Cove, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia
In case anyone is wondering where we are. Tomorrow Rose Harbour or Louscoone Inlet.
LATITUDE: 52-17.79N
LONGITUDE: 131-09.40W
COMMENT: anchored Ikeda Cove, Haida Gwaii, British Columbia
In case anyone is wondering where we are. Tomorrow Rose Harbour or Louscoone Inlet.
Thursday, 12 July 2018
Return to Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows
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| Sea anemones in Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows |
Something we haven't mentioned: most days we get 10-15 kn wind in the anchorages (sometimes up to 21), which thus far have always died down by dinner, and we have quiet calm nights at anchor (except for those partying kayakers...).
As expected, the sealife spectacle in Burnaby Narrows was especially spectacular with such a low tide. So very much worth returning to see it. (To our surprise, a couple kayak groups camped near the Narrow elected to sleepin and totally missed the low tide. A long way to come -- and they pay a lot -- to then miss this.)
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| Over/under water shot of unusual anemones in Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows |
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| Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows |
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| White sculpin in Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows |
After a pancake breakfast aboard Pelagia with David and Gillian from SV Carousel, we both weighed anchor and went the 10 nm or so to Ikeda Cove, where we spent two relaxing nights.
Wednesday, 11 July 2018
Slim Inlet, a Ling Cod, and the first real rain (Gwaii Haanas NPR)
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| The two David's first Ling Cod |
After some debate as to (i) going into Skincuttle Inlet and return to Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows for the very low tide or (ii) going further south (to Ikeda Cove) and bypassing Skincuttle Inlet, we decided we wanted to return t Skincuttle Inlet.
The trip from Poole Inlet to Slim Inlet was short (11 nm); the anchorage easy (and, again, empty). After anchoring, light rain and winds started up. Nevertheless, David decided to try some more rockfish fishing out at a nearby rock, and invited David from Carousel to join. Lots of joking about "Dumb and Dumber" going fishing.
After catching and releasing a (too small) black rockfish, Pelagia David handed the rod to Carousel David so he could start the engine. All of a sudden the rod took a major and sustained hit. This was no ordinary rockfish! To our amazement, we brought in a 70cm Ling Cod. We radioed the two boats to warn them we were having fish for dinner. The two David's were heroes for the day. (The Ling Cod provided 8 large portions!).
Returning to the boats with the fish, we battled rain and wind. Didn't matter.
An excellent fun dinner for the four of us aboard SV Carousel. Rained most of the night but mostly dry by the morning. Meanwhile, a bear was on the beach nearby rolling rocks searching for food.
Poole Inlet (Gwaii Haanas NPR)
After leaving Island Bay, we (SVs Carousel and Pelagia) headed around Scudder Point (Northeast point of Burnaby Island) with the plan to check out Poole Inlet on Burnaby Island. On the way, we put out our new fishing equipment to see if we could catch a salmon. Imagine David's upset when he lost it all to a bad knot. (Time to re-review the fishing knots in out knot book!)
Poole Inlet is oddly not in any of the guide books. But on the chart the anchorage looked good. And, indeed, it was a good, quiet anchorage, with good protection and shallow depths. Several streams provide water to the bay. Perhaps we should keep this new-to-us anchorage to ouselves?
A note about the weather thus far: We have had perhaps 2 partial days of rain. Most days have had a lot of sun. The solar panels have no problem keeping our batteries charged.
Poole Inlet is oddly not in any of the guide books. But on the chart the anchorage looked good. And, indeed, it was a good, quiet anchorage, with good protection and shallow depths. Several streams provide water to the bay. Perhaps we should keep this new-to-us anchorage to ouselves?
A note about the weather thus far: We have had perhaps 2 partial days of rain. Most days have had a lot of sun. The solar panels have no problem keeping our batteries charged.
Monday, 9 July 2018
Island Bay and Dolomite/Burnaby Narrows (Gwaii Haanas NPR)
After Murchison Island, we decided to check out Island Bay (new-to-us) and try visiting Burnaby Narrows from the North (20 nm). SV Carousel joined us.
Island Bay was a beautiful anchorage (we anchored immediately south of Dolomite Point). Soon after arriving, we headed out on our kayaks to check out the Narrows at a 4-foot low tide. The Narrows were beautiful, though we (Michelle and I) knew they could be much better at a lower tide (<1ft). But this was not due for another week.
We decided to stay a second night at Island Bay and do some more kayaking. On return to Pelagia, we were treated to a bear rolling rocks on the beach (at low tide) immediately in front of Pelagia at anchor. This was our third bear siting but easily the closest/best.
After two nights, we headed around Burnaby Island.*
*Many experienced boats transit Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows at mid-tide on a rising tide. The route requires multiple dogleg turns and is complicated by currents, rocks AND the fact the most of the Narrows is impassable at lower tide levels (much of it dries at a 1-2-foot tide). Even after multiple visits, we are not willing to risk Pelagia in this tortuous passage.
Island Bay was a beautiful anchorage (we anchored immediately south of Dolomite Point). Soon after arriving, we headed out on our kayaks to check out the Narrows at a 4-foot low tide. The Narrows were beautiful, though we (Michelle and I) knew they could be much better at a lower tide (<1ft). But this was not due for another week.
We decided to stay a second night at Island Bay and do some more kayaking. On return to Pelagia, we were treated to a bear rolling rocks on the beach (at low tide) immediately in front of Pelagia at anchor. This was our third bear siting but easily the closest/best.
After two nights, we headed around Burnaby Island.*
*Many experienced boats transit Burnaby/Dolomite Narrows at mid-tide on a rising tide. The route requires multiple dogleg turns and is complicated by currents, rocks AND the fact the most of the Narrows is impassable at lower tide levels (much of it dries at a 1-2-foot tide). Even after multiple visits, we are not willing to risk Pelagia in this tortuous passage.
Friday, 6 July 2018
Hotsprings Island (Gwai Haanas NPR)
A separate post for a couple photos of the hotsprings on Hotsprings Island.
A couple of new pools were built at a lower level to capture the hot water. One of the old pools is also still in use. The change and shower huts are the same as 2011.
A couple of new pools were built at a lower level to capture the hot water. One of the old pools is also still in use. The change and shower huts are the same as 2011.
Anna Inlet to Sac Bay to Murchison Island cove (Gwaii Haanas)
After 3 nights in anna Inlet (two of them the only boat), we reluctantly left Anna Inlet. (Technically, one is limited to 3 consecutive days at any one spot in the park, subject to weather. This is not, however, monitored.)
We stopped at the freshwater dock off Hoya Passage to fill one of our water tanks (treating it with the same treatment as we used in and leftover from Mexico), then continued on to Sac Bay in De La Beche Inlet. Another dramatic locations, with the San Christoval mountain range towering over the bay. Again the only boat, the next day we kayaked over to Skittagetan Lagoon and back. SV Carousel rejoined us on the second night.
New-to-us* Sac Bay is known for "williwaw" winds (katabatic winds that rush down into the bay from high up in the mountains) under certain conditions, and we experience a mild version of these on our second night. So we decided to move over to a cove at the entrance to De La Beche Inlet. The entrance into this cove was very narrow and shallow. Carousel draws less and went in first, indicating 14 feet depth. At the last minute, we decided not to chance it and instead head over to Murchison Island (where Carousel had spent 3 nights while we were in Anna Inlet).
Murchison Island cove* and the area around is beautiful (in a very different way than Anna Inlet or Sac Bay), and we were fortunate to get one of the two park buoys.
Unfortunately, our first night at Murchison was marred by two issues. First, we had noticed an American sailing vessel was likely fishing (well) within the Rockfish Conservation Area surrounding these islands. NO fishing with hooks of any sort are allowed in RCAs, in an effort to improve rockfish populations. When the boat came in to the other mooring buoy, and proceeded to gut and clean large rockfish, David could not help but to tear a strip off them for illegal fishing. Their response? "We'll check the regulations" (the Gwaii Haanas guide everyone gets is VERY clear about this, as are fishing regulations in general). We have no patience for this behaviour, especially by visitors.
The other issue our first night was a group of 5 kayakers who decided to party until 2am, including belting out "O'Canada" at midnight (yes, 5 Canadian guys...). Next day David had a friendly conversation with these obviously hungover kayakers who promised they'd be quiet our second night (after all, they had no booze left...).
On our second day, we dinghied over to Hotsprings Island to visit the Haida Watchmen and the hotsprings. The hotsprings stopped flowing after the 2012 earthquake, but they are returning. Not real hot (40 degrees C) but very nice. worth the trip.
Our second night at Murchison Island indeed turned out to be very quiet and calm. (Thank you quiet kayakers!)
*not visited during our 2002 or 2011 trips to Gwaii Haanas NPR.
We stopped at the freshwater dock off Hoya Passage to fill one of our water tanks (treating it with the same treatment as we used in and leftover from Mexico), then continued on to Sac Bay in De La Beche Inlet. Another dramatic locations, with the San Christoval mountain range towering over the bay. Again the only boat, the next day we kayaked over to Skittagetan Lagoon and back. SV Carousel rejoined us on the second night.
New-to-us* Sac Bay is known for "williwaw" winds (katabatic winds that rush down into the bay from high up in the mountains) under certain conditions, and we experience a mild version of these on our second night. So we decided to move over to a cove at the entrance to De La Beche Inlet. The entrance into this cove was very narrow and shallow. Carousel draws less and went in first, indicating 14 feet depth. At the last minute, we decided not to chance it and instead head over to Murchison Island (where Carousel had spent 3 nights while we were in Anna Inlet).
Murchison Island cove* and the area around is beautiful (in a very different way than Anna Inlet or Sac Bay), and we were fortunate to get one of the two park buoys.
Unfortunately, our first night at Murchison was marred by two issues. First, we had noticed an American sailing vessel was likely fishing (well) within the Rockfish Conservation Area surrounding these islands. NO fishing with hooks of any sort are allowed in RCAs, in an effort to improve rockfish populations. When the boat came in to the other mooring buoy, and proceeded to gut and clean large rockfish, David could not help but to tear a strip off them for illegal fishing. Their response? "We'll check the regulations" (the Gwaii Haanas guide everyone gets is VERY clear about this, as are fishing regulations in general). We have no patience for this behaviour, especially by visitors.
The other issue our first night was a group of 5 kayakers who decided to party until 2am, including belting out "O'Canada" at midnight (yes, 5 Canadian guys...). Next day David had a friendly conversation with these obviously hungover kayakers who promised they'd be quiet our second night (after all, they had no booze left...).
On our second day, we dinghied over to Hotsprings Island to visit the Haida Watchmen and the hotsprings. The hotsprings stopped flowing after the 2012 earthquake, but they are returning. Not real hot (40 degrees C) but very nice. worth the trip.
Our second night at Murchison Island indeed turned out to be very quiet and calm. (Thank you quiet kayakers!)
*not visited during our 2002 or 2011 trips to Gwaii Haanas NPR.
Tuesday, 3 July 2018
Queen Charlotte to Skedans to Anna Inlet (Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve/Hai
We (SVs Pelagia and Carousel) left the Bearskin Bay anchorage in front of Queen Charlotte City early in order to take the shortcut across the Sandspit bar with a higher tide and current in our direction. Unfortunately, no wind, but we had a comfortable motor past Cumshewa Inlet and Skedans to Thurston Harbour (52 nm). Thurston Harbour was filled with hundreds (probably thousands) of large Sea Nettle (aka Lion's Mane) Jellyfish. something we worried about sucking into our engine or toilet intakes.
Next day, we separated from Carousel and headed back to Skedans, anchoring in Skedans Bay, and dinghied over to the Skedans Haida Village site. We haven't visited there since 2002, and the totem poles has significantly deteriorated (which is as the Haida expect). We had a good tour by a young (17 years old) Haida Watchman.
After Skedans, we decided we did not have enough time to stop at Tanu, so headed directly to Anna Inlet (a total of 28 miles today).
Anchored in Anna Inlet feels as if we are anchored in a lake up in the mountains. Only this "lake" is salt water and filled with thousands of Sea Nettle (aka Lion's Mane) Jellyfish and schools of small squid.
A beautiful place; we stayed three nights. We kayaked nearby and even finally managed to find (and hike) the trail up to Anna Lake (158m elevation). The trail was rough, muddy and not that much fun; the destination beautiful but with no space to enjoy it. A little dangerous (easy to fall) and not really recommended, but it was good to get some exercise. One hour up; 50 minutes down.
We also did some fishing, keeping two large rockfish for dinner.
Next day, we separated from Carousel and headed back to Skedans, anchoring in Skedans Bay, and dinghied over to the Skedans Haida Village site. We haven't visited there since 2002, and the totem poles has significantly deteriorated (which is as the Haida expect). We had a good tour by a young (17 years old) Haida Watchman.
After Skedans, we decided we did not have enough time to stop at Tanu, so headed directly to Anna Inlet (a total of 28 miles today).
Anchored in Anna Inlet feels as if we are anchored in a lake up in the mountains. Only this "lake" is salt water and filled with thousands of Sea Nettle (aka Lion's Mane) Jellyfish and schools of small squid.
A beautiful place; we stayed three nights. We kayaked nearby and even finally managed to find (and hike) the trail up to Anna Lake (158m elevation). The trail was rough, muddy and not that much fun; the destination beautiful but with no space to enjoy it. A little dangerous (easy to fall) and not really recommended, but it was good to get some exercise. One hour up; 50 minutes down.
We also did some fishing, keeping two large rockfish for dinner.