To the Broughtons and Cape Caution (almost)

Photos:
1. Bit gloomy in Beware Passage
2. Sun comes out for kayaking (Mimkwamlis village site)

We did an (unusual for us) dinner time transit north through the Yaculta rapids. Easy transit with few other vessels and no gin palaces roaring though (a welcome change). But not arriving to anchorage (Bickley Bay) til 9'ish pm a pain. Then we had an easy, albeit motor, trip up Johnstone Strait  A few days in the Broughtons the several in Sointula and 1 night provisioning in Port McNeill.

Yesterday, we decided to setup for going around Cape Caution, motoring 6 hrs to just SE of Caution at Miles Inlet (a favourite).

This morning (Saturday), conditions were perfect for going up and around Cape Caution. BUT the weather forecast above Caution for the next 5+ days had 20-30 (!) knot winds every day (plus rain, etc). It sounded depressing. Given our late leaving for this Summer's cruise, we decided to turn back.

Maybe next year....

Right now, we are heading towards Wells Passage, calm seas, little wind. Rain and some winds are forecast here too (but not so bad... no "30 knots" in forecast... yet).

See many sea otters along the way.

Summer 2026: Vancouver to Bargain Bay (Pender Harbour)

This Summer, our "live" location (maybe 1/2 day behind) can be found here:       https://track.myzoleo.com/livelocation?se1aV0V8QD  

Finally! We got away for our Summer 2026 cruising... with our new engine! 

A little late (we usually leave in mid June). We "plan" on being out 6 weeks, at least getting up to the Broughtons.

Today, we left late (due to low tide), but made it up to Bargain Bay. Even managed an easy sail (SE winds) for about half of it. 

(On the way, we looked into Secret Cove to possibly anchor for the night, but locals had placed buoys -- not real "mooring" buoys -- and crab pots, making it uninviting to anchor. This is a problem throughout B.C.'s south coast. So we continued on to Bargain Bay, which was lovely.)

No sailing this Fall...

 

 

We had planned to head out for 5-7 days over Canadian Thanksgiving (October). But Thursday before Thanksgiving, David came down with a bad cold that shut him down for a couple days. And the weather that weekend was truly horrible, with torrential rains.

Weather for the rest of the Fall continued to be pretty lousy.

So, no trips out on Pelagia this Fall. 

Last sail of the Summer (2025): 2 weeks in the Gulf Islands

 

Pelagia anchored at Russell Island

One last getaway this Summer: two weeks in the Gulf Islands. Lots of visiting friends and family, a new-to-us anchorage, and some places we haven't visited for a long time.

 

September 2025 route (red = sailing)

ITINERARY

Night 1: Kendrick Island (A)

Night 2: Clam Bay (A)

Night 3: Maple Bay Yacht Club (D)

Night 4: Russell Island (A*)

Night 5: Deep Cove (A)

Night 6: Tod Inlet (A)

Night 7: Ganges VRC dock (D)

Night 8: Montague Hbr  (B)

Nights 9 & 10: Winter Cove (A)

Nights 11 & 12: Otter Bay VRC dock (D)

Night 13: Clam Bay (A)

Night 14: Vancouver home berth  

First a nice, gentle sail across the strait to Kendrick Island/Dogfish Bay (becoming a favourite). Empty at first (1 other boat), but quickly 6-7 other boats came in after us (including 1 local boat that insisted on anchoring on top of our anchor... re-anchoring, they still seemed to need to be awfully close). Hey, it isn't supposed to be crowded in mid September!

Next day, a motor through Gabriola Passage (2-3 kn ebb) then a no-wind motor down to Clam Bay. Again, it became busy (although, not "crowded"). D takes a dinghy ride through the Cut and buys a peach pie at the Howling Wolf Farm shop while a white horse hopes for food. 

Nothing for me? (Actually, D bought an apple for him, but he disappeared.)

Next morning (another sunny day), we see a boat having trouble getting its anchor up. The middle portion of the Clam Bay anchorage seems to have many reports of a fouled bottom. (We mark the location along with other boats' past issues. An area to avoid!) 

Next day (Day 3), we have a dinner-on-Pelagia with a longtime sail and work friend who we haven't seen since pre-Covid times! We moor at the Maple Bay Yacht Club reciprocal dock.  A good get together. 

Following day, we head to new-to-us Russell Island, following a reconnoitre of the anchorage in Deep Cove near D's sister's house. She had warned me that there were now many mooring buoys. All empty. Turns out, an owner in  Deep Cove who doesn't even own a boat to be moored has put several buoys in. Really screwing up the anchorage and REALLY INCONSIDERATE (looking at you Ripley!). We decide we can still anchor next day, but much farther out and deeper than we used to. We continue on to Russell.

Deep Cove: Filled with unused private mooring buoys. Not nice!

Russell Island's anchorage was glassy calm but busier that we expected. Still, we find a spot for the night and go for a nice walk (and picked a few heritage apples). The bottom is a bit rocky so holding a bit so-so, and the anchorage somewhat open. Would not want to be here when the winds are blowing. Still, a quiet night.

Russell Island anchorage (Pelagia is 2nd boat from left)

Next day, back to buoy-filled Deep Cove. A long row to shore ('cause we anchored far out in 60 feet) but we had a very nice evening with family. Haven't anchored here since pre-Covid.

Next day was Tod Inlet (near Butchart Gardens). Maybe 13+ years since we've been here. The anchorage was very busy -- almost Desolation-Sound-crowded (OK, not quite... apparently it does get overcrowded in July-August). Nevertheless, we find a good spot. We then meet ex-cruiser buddies (formerly of SV Carousel) Gillian and David out at the road, and go out for lunch and then a walk around Brentwood Bay.

Time to get a few food items etc*, so next day we head over to Ganges on Saltspring Island and get lucky finding a spot on the VRC outstation dock.  (*we could easily have shopped near Brentwood Bay.)

We found Ganges too busy and the marina not-so-welcoming, so we decided to stay just 1 night. Next day we were going to go to Winter Cove, but southerly winds made it a bit bouncy, so we headed in to Montague Harbour. There were lots of buoys available (indeed a couple remained all night -- finally, the crowds seemed to be dwindling). 

Next day, it was calm and we motored down to Winter Cove. Only a few boats so lots of room for anchoring. Sunny and calm, we went for a walk and went kayaking. So nice, we stayed 2 nights.

Boat Passage, Winter Cove

Required selfie: At Winter Point (Saturna Is) with mainland mountains behind

 

We have another (our last) get together the next day over on North Pender Island. Space was available at the VRC dock (both spaces!) at Otter Bay Marina. Later, we are picked up by cruising buddies Wayne and Lee (of SV Chanter) and we have an enjoyable dinner with them at their home (during which, we get to see Wayne's fantastic trains).

Wayne among his trains (which are impressive)

Next day called for big NW winds in the Strait of Georgia (25-30 kt) and likely some in the islands. We decided to stay put on the dock at Otter Bay. Woke up to ashes all over the boat (from forest fires on the Olympic Peninsula, not Mt. St. Helens); D surreptitiously did a quick rinse off ("no boat washing" allowed... though later many other did more thorough washes). Sunny and warm, we even went for a swim in one of the marina's two pools.

Next day, the winds were down to 10-12 kn so we headed up to Clam Bay, to get ready for a morning transit of Porlier Pass and hopefully a sail across the strait (and hopefully not too strong winds). A quiet night in Clam Bay, with fewer boats than previous time.

Our last day, we indeed had a good sail back across Georgia Strait from outside of Porlier Pass: started out NW 17kt but very soon decreased to about 12-13 kt. An easy sail, although heeled-over for awhile at the start. Winds died at the Pt. Grey bell buoy.

An excellent 2-week cruise in the Gulf Islands, fun catching up with friends and family. Mostly motoring but bookended with good sailing on the first and last days.

 

 

Over-Crowded Desolation (July/August 2025)

 

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Refuge Cove: Boats motoring around waiting to get fuel or groceries

Seriously overcrowded in the main anchorages (spilling over to crowd the "alternate" anchorages). Majority of boats are from the USA. Not everybody is respectful of others. 

 

We value uncrowded, wilderness-like anchorages. You won't find this in Desolation Sound area in July-August! That's why we go much farther north (even if the weather and waters are colder). 

Summer 2025 on Pelagia

Pelagia's 2025 route (Southern portions): RED = sailing

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Pelagia's 2025 route (Northern portions): RED = sailing

We got away by mid June, and enjoyed (mostly) 7 weeks cruising on Pelagia. 

Approximately 4 weeks were spent in the Broughtons, with not quite 2 weeks in Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area. The Broughtons were not at all crowded (though busier than past) and the daytime temperatures comfortable (14-17 degrees C). Desolation Sound by late July/early August was crazy over-crowded, made worse by being too hot. 

Typical weather in the Broughtons

As we've suggested before, spending much time in Desolation Sound in July and August isn't worth it ... just too crowded. Too many boaters with many not exactly being considerate of others.

One thing we noticed: a significant percentage of USA boats were not flying their USA flag. Perhaps embarassed? A small percentage flew neither their USA flag nor a Canadian "courtesy" flag. Who did they think they were fooling? (Perhaps they were just "unaware" of normal, accepted practice.) As far as we could tell, USA boats were treated well here in Canada, just like any other boats.    

In total, our trip to/from the Broughtons was 626 nautical miles, of which we sailed 164 nm (about 26%, not terrible). And we did have some great sails: down Johnstone Strait with winds from behind reaching 30 kn at Fanny Island; all the way up Malaspina Strait for out longest sail (37 nm).

 

We anchored out 37 nights and stayed 11 nights at docks (as usual, our favourite was/is Sointula, which we visited 2x). We anchored in 4 new-to-us anchorages (2 of them twice because we liked them so much).

It might have been cooler and more comfortable up in the Broughtons (though certainly not sunbathing or ocean swimming weather), but we really only had 3 days of true rain. Fog and drizzle, however, were regular. 

We had a couple weeks cruising with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, up to Sointula. Sadly, they had to leave us, and we missed them.  

Chanter (left) and Pelagia (right) sailing across Queen Charlotte Strait

 

 

Last morning with Chanter: saying goodbye

 

Unfortunately, we had to cut short our trip due to some persistent muscle/tendon aches and pains that needed attending by a physio and doctor back home. These problems made long walks, hiking or kayaking difficult. 

We hope to get better clarity on the aches and pains and to be able to go back out on Pelagia late August or more likely September. And by then the Summer crowds will have substantially decreased.

 [Photos to come.]  

 

And we're off! (Summer 2025)

After weeks of plumbing repairs 😢 on Pelagia by David, we're finally off.

Headed up to Pender Harbour yesterday (Monday), even getting a nice sail for almost half the way.

Today we are headed up Malaspina Strait with 10-20 kn winds behind... great easy sailing! Hope to get to Desolation Sound today.

 

[Update: Indeed, we had a great sail from Cape Cockburn (pronounced "coburn") to Cortes Island.]  

Current plans are 6 (maybe 7-8) weeks on the boat, going at least as far as Sointula and the Broughtons.

You can follow us here:

https://track.myzoleo.com/livelocation?edibh9jc5d

Springtime sail

Anchored in Pirates Cove

Spring has definitely returned to southwestern British Columbia!

We got away for a 4-night/5-day cruise to and from the Gulf Islands over the Easter weekend. Mostly sunny weather. We started out with 2 nights on a mooring buoy in Montague Harbour, 1 night anchored in Clam Bay, and finally 1 night anchored in Pirates Cove. (It has been years since we last anchored in Pirates Cove, as it is usually overcrowded and notorious for anchor dragging. But is was nearly empty and calm this Easter.)

Finished off with a good sail fully across Georgia Strait after transiting Gabriola Passage.

 
At end of the sailing, off Stanley Park, starting the engine we found no water pumping out. We quickly dropped anchor and David troubleshooted things, including pulling the raw water pump impeller (which was OK). Putting it all back together, all was working fine. We think the bouncy sail produced an air lock in the raw water circuit, something we've never seen on Pelagia. We arrived back at home berth, perhaps 2 hours late.

A very nice weekend (despite the drama at the end).

Easter 2025 cruise: motor (blue) and sail (green)

 

 

Another short cruise: Gulf Islands

Pelagia anchored in Princess Cove (Wallace Island)

A last-minute decision -- made 10am in Squamish -- we had a short weather window (4-5 days), so we headed out on Pelagia. Made it across Georgia Strait (motoring, no wind) to Dogfish Bay (Kendrick Island) just as it was getting dark. It was quite cool outside (approx. 7 deg C), but our hydronic heating kept us warm (turned off while sleeping!).

Next morning, we motored in the sun through Gabriola Passage then down to Wallace Island, anchoring alone (free swinging) in Princess Bay (a major benefit of cruising in the Fall... Mid-May through mid-September, Princess Cove would be packed with stern-tied boats, and free-swinging "discouraged").

Went for the usual hike to Chivers Point (approximately 2 hrs return). Later in the afternoon, we fired-up our Dickinson heater (first time since the williwaws in Anna Inlet, in 2022) -- this kept the main cabin even toastier than the hydronic furnace (both systems provide hot water for showers, etc). Not needed under the covers in our v-berth.

Wallace Island had some particularly large mushrooms!

On the dinghy heading back to Pelagia

 

We had hoped to meet up with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, but with such short notice, they were already booked. Maybe next time.

Weather forecast was for really nasty winds (and rain) and combined with timing of slack current in the passes, we decided to cross back across Georgia Strait a day earlier. Rather than going back to our berth at the Vancouver Rowing Club, however, we decided to spend a night at the VRC outstation dock at Snug Cove (Bowen Island). The trip across was mostly a motor, but we did get a nice gentle sail for 5nm.

Next morning, we headed back to our VRC berth and then drove home to Squamish. The bad weather started that night (winds up to 40kn, plus rain).

A nice trip, but far too short!

Our route (approximately 88 nm)