Health issues...

 The best laid plans.... 

Health issues (David) have laid waste to our summer cruise plans. 

Hopefully, we'll get out on Pelagia for some shorter trips later this summer....

The best chart package combination for Pacific Mexico: OpenCPN and O-CHARTS

Zihuatanejo harbour (O-Charts & OpenCPN)

 

Best charting package: OpenCPN

(when combined with charts available for OpenCPN)

I have long touted OpenCPN. It is the most (or among the most) full-featured charting packages. It is continuously being updated/upgraded with new features, and support easily obtained.

My favourite OpenCPN features:

• Accepts most chart types: Raster [BSB/KAP (such as CHS and NOAA raster files), mbtiles; Vector (S57 ENC (such as free NOAA files), some S63, CM93v2, and  O-SENC]
• Excellent waypoint creation and management
• Excellent route creation and management
• Presentation of AIS target information 
  
• VDR (Voyage Data recorder): Save depth, AIS, etc data for later re-playing (and creation of depth surveys) 
• and much more!
  

This open-source charting package is available free for PC, MAC and Linux, and for a very small one-time fee for Android. (Due to Apple's iOS licensing issues, OpenCPN is not available for iPhone or iPad.)

Best source of charts for Mexico's Pacific Coast: O-Charts

I've recently had the opportunity to review the O-Charts (Open Charts) Mexico charts. I've focused on the Pacific coast.

(1) O-Charts' SEMAR charts:

A new addition, O-Charts now offers official Mexico charts from Mexico's SEMAR. Charts are in two sets, one for Mexico's Pacific coast and the other for Mexico's Gulf of Mexico coast. Each chart set is offered for a very reasonable price (26 to 30 euros/set), which includes free updates for 1 year (update frequency is reported to be weekly). Most of these charts are fairly recently issued and/or have received recent updates. They are not old charts "from the 1800s" so often alluded to by misinformed cruisers.

SEMAR (O-Charts): Entrance to Sabalo (Mazatlan)

SEMAR (O-Charts): Sabalo (Marina Mazatlan)

Pacific Mexico: The O-Charts' SEMAR packages are from SEMAR's ENC (vector) charts. NOTE: Although extensive, the SEMAR ENC collection is missing several charts from their RASTER collection. This means a few key locations for cruisers are missing from O-Charts' SEMAR package. With two exceptions (see below), these few locations on raster charts missing from SEMAR ENC are all easily replaced by also purchasing Blue Latitude raster charts from O-Charts.

Commercial chart sources, such as Navionics and C-MAP, all obtain their Mexico chart information from SEMAR. Sometimes these commercial charts include data from both vector and raster from SEMAR are included, other times only vector. 

However, it is important to note that SEMAR data (and thus Navionics/C-MAP) usually does not cover popular small-boat anchorages. 

The solution is to add Blue Latitude charts, as shown in the following example for Isla San Francisco, below:

 

Navionics: no data for Isla San Francisco

SEMAR (O-Charts): no data for Isla San Francisco

Blue Latitude (O-Charts): Detailed chart for Isla San Francisco (from guidebook)

 

(2) O-Charts' Blue Latitude charts: 

O-Charts has for some time offered the two Blue Latitude chart sets for the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Mexico (36 euros per set). These chartlets, found also in the excellent Blue Latitude guidebooks, provide GPS-accurate charts for all the main harbours and hundreds of small-boat anchorages on Mexico's Pacific coast (excluding the west coast of the Baja peninsula). NO other charts provide such detail.  

These charts are essential for west coast cruisers.  

 

For cruisers, the combination of SEMAR and Blue Latitude charts, both available from O-Charts, provide excellent coverage of Mexico's Pacific coast.

The two important exceptions:

O-Charts SEMAR Pacific chart set is missing detailed charts for two key locations for cruisers on the west coast of Baja: Turtle Bay and Bahia Santa Maria/Bahia Magdalena. Unfortunately, these locations are not part of the Blue Latitude chart sets, as they do not cover Baja's west coast. 

There are easy solutions for charts for these two Baja locations:

• LINK to download these missing charts for use in OpenCPN (6 MB). A great option of OpenCPN is that it allows one to use mbtiles charts of Navionics (or C-MAP) made using SASPLANET and SAT2CHART software.* I have made up these charts for Turtle Bay and Bahia Santa Maria/Bahia Magdalena.   (Another key feature of OpenCPN is that one can use detailed satellite-image "charts" for the many poorly-charted anchorages along Baja's west coast, made using SASPLANET and SAT2CHART.)

• Most up-to-date chart cards for chartplotters (Navionics, C-MAP) will have detailed charts for these two Baja locations (derived from SEMAR's detailed raster charts)*
  

• Navionics and C-MAP iOS/Android apps also contain detailed charts*

 

* Note: Navionics/C-MAP do not provide more detailed charts (compared to O-Charts' SEMAR) for other areas of the west coast of Baja. For the many poorly charted locations on Baja's west coast, I recommend making detailed satellite images (mbtiles are best) using SASPLANET/SAT2CHART and OpenCPN.

What year are your CM93 electronic charts? Make sure they are the "latest"! (HOWEVER: ALL CM93v2 charts are OUT-OF-DATE!)

 ******************************************************************************
UPDATE/COMMENT: This post concerning "CM93" charts is proving to be very popular. It must be noted that CM93 Version 2 charts are usually far from being "up-to-date"; certainly NOT the best charts"available, so users of these charts must be cautious. Often, they are totally out-of-date, and dangerous. In some cases, C-MAP or Navionics electronic charts (which are fairly inexpensive on Android and IOS platforms) may be more accurate. However, as we have noted in other posts, Navionics or CMAP charts may also not be fully up-to-date.

NOTE that Mexico's SEMAR issues new charts every year (as well as updates). For example, in 2018, SEMAR issued a new, detailed, chart for the islands in Bahia de La Paz. (Unfortunately, this chart is available only as pricey paper chart or Raster, and not in their vector/ENC collections (such as excellent O-charts).

THIS POST offers the best solution for electronic charting in the west coast of Mexico: OpenCPN, O-Charts Pacific Mexico, and Blue Latitude garbour charts, plus a couple SAT2CHART/SASPLANET charts to fill a couple "holes".
******************************************************************************

CM93 vector electronic charts, covering the whole world, are shared widely among cruisers; they are also available from some sites on the web. Technically, these charts are "pirated", so user beware....

[Note: By "latest", we mean the most recent CM93 available which works in OPENCPN]

CM93 "version 2" charts are easily used in the open-source, freely available, OPENCPN navigation program (CM93 "version 3" charts do not work in OPENCPN).

When we were planning to sail to Mexico, a cruising friend gave us a copy of the CM93 charts. We were impressed that they covered the globe; we were less impressed when we saw their lack of detail. This was especially the case when we left the highly accurate (and free) raster charts of the USA and entered Mexico. In Mexico, we quickly learned (i) our CM93 charts were nearly useless, (ii) our updated CMAP charts (on our chartplotter) were much better, and (iii) in many (most?) places, even our up-to-date CMAP charts provided insufficient detail.* As we note in our earlier blog posts about charts and guides (as well as comparing official Mexican SEMAR charts with CMAP charts), we did not feel confident navigating close to shore until we reached Cabo San Lucas where we could finally use the excellent Blue Latitude Press cruising guides, with their excellent, detailed chartlets and accurate waypoints.

[*Our experience with Navionics charts in Mexico indicates they suffer similar problems as CMAP charts; indeed, we note areas where CMAP has important detailed updates not found in the Navionics. See our blog posts concerning CMAP, Navionics and SEMAR charts.]

It turns out, we were using a very out-dated version of  the CM93 vector charts, dated mostly before the year 2000. Since returning home, we have found CM93 version 2 charts dating as late as 2012. The differences (improvements) over the years are substantial.

To help other cruisers, the examples below show the improvements in the CM93 charts for the years "2000", "2007" and "2012" (dates are approximate).



Turtle Bay/Bahia Tortugas (Baja California Sur)
Our first real experience with CM93 charts coming in to an unfamiliar bay. 

Our circa-2000 CM93 chart was useless: no details, no depths, and the datum way off (on the other hand, the CMAP turned out to be pretty good).

The circa-2007 CM93 has much more detail and correct datum, although lights were not correct.

The circa-2012 CM93 chart for Turtle Bay is quite accurate (determined using GE2KAP and Google Earth (see this blog post) -- we wished we'd had it back in 2013!




La Paz, Baja California Sur
Both our circa-2000 CM93 charts and our CMAP chart showed few details and were inaccurate for the section from (and including) Bahia Los Frailes, to Ensenada de Los Muertos, the Cerralvo Channel, and finally, the San Lorenzo Channel entering Bahia de La Paz (they still are...). The Blue Latitude Press Sea of Cortez cruising guide was a godsend.


We entered the narrow, dogleg channel entering La Paz harbour just as the sun began to rise (we had left Los Frailes in the morning and done an overnight trip from Los Muertos in order to beat a Northerly, accurately predicted to come fiercely the next day). The circa-2000 CM93 chart showed NO details; fortunately, the CMAP chart showed good detail which turned out to be very accurate (though we did not know/trust this at the time).

Again, we wished we had the 2012 CM93 charts as confirmation of the CMAP (and Blue Latitude Press) information.




Punta Sabalo/Estero de Sabalo/Marina Mazatlan

In late April 2014, it was time to sail across the Sea of Cortez to Marina Mazatlan in the Estero de Sabalo, where we planned to keep Pelagia for the 2014 hurricane season. Again, our circa-2000 CM93 charts were useless. Our CMAP chart was also incomplete, although it had much more and better information than CM93 (the June 2014 CMAP update provided much more information for this area).

  

 

The circa-2012, CM93 chart shows an outline of the Marinas in the Sabalo Estero, but with few details. Fortunately, the combination of our CMAP charts and the Blue Latitude Press Pacific Mexico guide gave us the information we needed.

Other places in Mexico where CM93 2012 charts are inadequate (or useless) compared to official SEMAR charts: 

The list is too long. 

But, for example:

Puerto Los Cabos (San Jose del Cabo): nonexistent on CM93

Marina Coral (Ensenada): nonexistent on CM93

Marina Costa Baja (La Paz, BCS): nonexistent on CM93

"The Islands", Bahia de la Paz (new (2018) detailed chart): nonexistent on CM93

Topolobampo: details nonexistent on CM93

Bahia de Altata:  details nonexistent on CM93

Marina at La Cruz and Paradise Marina (Banderas Bay): nonexistent on CM93

The list goes on and on.... 

CM93 charts in Canada?

After seeing these large changes (improvements) in the various versions of the CM93 charts, we wondered how the CM93 charts would look in our home waters in British Columbia.#

The circa-2000 CM93 charts are terrible for BC waters, even on the south coast of BC (even though most areas in 2000 were exquisitely charted by the Canadia Hydrographic Service (CHS) as well as preceding (mostly British) cartographers). However, by 2012, the CM93 charts are quite good.

Further north in British Columbia, there remain "pockets" of unsurveyed (or poorly surveyed) coastline -- almost all well away from typical routes. One area is "Lady Trutch Passage" on the Central Coast near Bella Bella. This passage always looked inviting, but was choked with narrow passages and no chart was available. However, in 2011, the CHS produced a new very detailed chart including Lady Trutch Passage. Interestingly, the circa-2012 CM93 chart includes this detailed information; the circa-2007 CM93 chart as a subset of this new charting; and predictably, the circa-2000 CM93 "chart" is hopeless for this area, even for the relatively well-traveled (and well-charted for years) "Perceval Narrows".

Circa-2000 CM93 "chart" for Lady Trutch Passage area: USELESS

CM93 "2007" chart for Lady Trutch Passage area: VERY incomplete

Pretty good, detailed CM93 "2012" chart for Lady Trutch Passage area

 

Obviously, anything "new" since 2012 (marinas, rocks, shallows, buoys... etc) will not be correct on the "latest" CM93 v2 charts (approx 2012).

(# Legally, in Canada, vessels must carry up-to-date CHS charts, so technically, circa-2012 CM93 charts are not sufficient; of course, neither are CMAP or Navionics charts.)



Before we sailed down to Mexico, we wish we had been aware of the substantial changes in the CM93 electronic charts. We should have been... but we were probably too wrapped-up in too many things as we prepared to sail to Mexico, and as were were on our way down the coast.

Hopefully, some cruisers heading offshore will find this blog post helpful!

Time for a pause... In La Paz B.C.S. for a month

We are now at Marina Palmyra in La Paz, Baja California Sur, with plans to stay here through Christmas and New Years.

We left Cabo San Lucas for the short trip to San Jose del Cabo. The new marina at Puerto Los Cabos was a welcome quiet stop after the craziness of CSL. We stayed 2 nights due to northerly winds, allowing a visit to San Jose on our bikes. The historic/art district of San Jose is worth a visit, but prices were way over the top.

We then motored to Bahia Los Frailes and dropped anchor. This was a beautiful spot that we wished we could have stayed longer but the weather forecast indicated a very strong norther brewing in the Sea of Cortez in a day or two. (Trying to get to La Paz, this would mean 20-30 knot winds "on the nose" with steep seas -- bashing!) So the next morning we up-anchored and motored the 45 miles from Los Frailes to Ensenada Los Muertos; we anchored and took a 2-hour break, then joined 4 other boats and did the 55-mile motor overnight all the way to La Paz. (We HAD hoped no more overnights until we cross over to the mainland side of Mexico....)

Briefly @ Ensenada Los Muertos (photo by SV Confidence)

"The Fleet" for Muertos to La Paz overnight sail (from SV Green Panther blog)

We had a calm, easy overnight motor to La Paz, arriving at daylight. By the afternoon, the norther winds had piped up to over 20 knots, with the bay full of whitecaps. Happily, we were comfortably moored at the dock at Marina Palmyra before this.

Arrival at dawn to La Paz channel (Pelagia shown, following Green Panther) -- from SV Green Panther blog

Down the Pacific Coast of Baja: Ensenada to Cabo stats

We left Ensenada on November 18th, and arrived Cabo San Lucas on December 1st,  a total of 14 days, including 6 lay days (3.5 days in Turtle Bay and 2.5 days in Bahia Santa Maria). We travelled (sailed/motored) a total of 151 hours, covering 746.7 nautical miles. In total (including battery charging, anchoring time, etc), we ran Pelagia's engine for 50.7 hours. We used only about 117 litres of diesel (only 43% of our tankage). Happily, we sailed at least 66% of the way. Not an easy trip, but not bad either.

Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas

After 3 nights in Bahia Santa Maria, it was time to continue South. We had enjoyed BSM: it is very "wild", with only a small seasonal fishing camp (the local fishermen came by offering lobster for trade, with batteries being the number one trade item; we gave away some batteries but did not ask for any langosta). And BSM was the site of our first swim -- 22 degrees Celsius was good enough for us to jump in.

Puerto Magdalena (Man-O-War cove)

We were not quite ready (mentally) for the final overnight, so we did a half-day trip (50% sailed) over to Puerto Magdalena/Man-O-War Cove for the night. We then left early the next morning for the approx. 180 nm overnight trip. As predicted, winds were fairly light. The trip took us 34.5 hours total, of which we motored for nearly 24 hours. But at least the seas were comfortable. (Though we find it hard to sleep while motoring.)

Rounding Cabo

More Cabo

An hour or so before sunset on Dec 1, we motored around the famous rock formations of Cabo San Lucas, and dropped anchor off the sandy beach in front of the hotels. It was a little rolly (from boat traffic and from residual swells) and one beach bar in particular was rather noisy, but we were happy to be anchored, relieved to have completed the long trip down the Pacific coast of Baja.

The next day, we had a nice swim off the boat, and then went in to the IGY Marina (and the mayhem of Cabo San Lucas) for a few nights.

Arrived Cabo San Lucas!

Crossed into the tropics yesterday and arrived Cabo San Lucas. More to come....

Passage to Bahia Santa Maria

Anchored in Bahia Santa Maria

We are now anchored in Bahia Santa Maria, about 3/4 down the length of the Baja peninsula.

The passage was 2.5 days and 2 nights. We had planned to stop on the second day in Abreojos, and indeed were very close to there in the late morning. But we decided we didn't like what seemed like a rolly anchorage*, so abandoned and turned straight to Bahia Santa Maria. So, a 2nd night at sea. (*Turns out the Abreojos anchorage is full of traps and long lines, and was rolly in the morning.)

For some reason, we found this passage more tiring, especially David, even though we had no real difficulties. We sailed all but 13 hrs of the trip.

We arrived Bahia Santa Maria just before dark, thereby missing lobster traps etc. We were the only boat in the anchorage. (Another boat came in later in the dark.)

Next day, in the sun, 3 more boats arrived.

We have ~180 nm to go to get to Cabo San Lucas. Winds, unfortunately, are forecast to be too light for several days, so maybe we will finally motor the majority of a passage.

Boats at Santa Maria (photo from SV Confidence blog)

Pelagia at Santa Maria (photo from SV Confidence blog)

Four days in Turtle Bay

We ended spending 4 nights in Turtle Bay. A couple days recovery (from our passage), a day for pouring rain, and a day in the sun prepping for our next passage.

Turtle Bay anchorage

"Downtown" Turtle Bay

Turtle Bay is a great anchorage; the village, well,rather dusty/muddy and ramshackle. Several tienda (stores) so some provisions can be obtained, including meat. All but one of our interactions with the locals were quite pleasant. (The one negative was with Enrique Jr., who runs the fuel dock: he scolded David for giving a small tip to the little kids who helped him carry water jugs to the dock. Given Enrique shorted us on our fuel purchase, he gets no respect from David.)

Turtle Bay's "moonscape"

Next stop?
(turns out it is Bahia Santa Maria)


Cruising boats in Turtle Bay: SV Confidence, SV Marova, SV Remember Me

Passage south to Turtle Bay

We are now in Turtle Bay, approximately halfway down the Baja Peninsula. (Half way to Cabo!)

Leaving Ensenada

We left Ensenada about noon on Monday, and arrived Turtle Bay, in the dark, at about 9pm Wednesday. Our passage was almost entirely under sail, with 15-25 kn winds behind us. Seas were often quite boisterous (translation: we were tossed around quite a lot). During the night, we each took 3-hr-long shifts while the other tried to sleep. Day time was more fluid, but we often tried to grab some sleep then to make it easier during the night.

Nightime sailing is far far better than nighttime motoring. (And daytime sailing is far far better than daytime motoring....)

Approaching Cedros Island at dawn

We were pretty tired -- think, jetlag -- on our first day in Turtle Bay.  David did get ashore to help Dave from SV Confidence (they arrived the day before us) find a welder to fix a piece broken on his Monitor windvane. Turtle Bay village is very spread out and very dusty and windblown. Dave was successful in getting the part welded -- still waiting to hear if it worked.

Last night a weather system came in, and it has been pouring rain since the wee hours of the morning. More like a B.C. weather day. It is now 12 noon and it is still pouring. Not sure if we will get off the boat today or not.

Next sail is either to Bahia Santa Maria (2 nights and 2 days), with perhaps a stop in-between, depending upon winds. We may leave tomorrow (Saturday).

Enjoyed Ensenada!

We stayed 11 nights in Ensenada -- far more than we had expected. That's
because we really liked Ensenada, our marina (Cruiseport Village), and
the relaxing time they gave us. It was also good to have friends in town
(SV Confidence and SV Marova), both boats getting work done at Baja Naval.

We had particularly good times at Hussong's Cantina, an Ensenada
landmark since the 1800s. David last visited in the 80s, and it remains
a great place for drinks and mariachi music. The three times we were
there, the cantina was filled with mostly Mexicans, many loudly singing
traditional songs as the mariachi band(s) played. Great fun.

Eventually, we had to move on, for a 3+ day passage to Turtle Bay, where
we are now.


Cruising boats in Ensenada: SV Marova, SV Confidence, SV Green Panther

"Mañana..." and our adventure with Aduanas Mexico

We had timed our arrival in Ensenada for early Thursday morning -- we arrived 7:30am -- so that we would have time for the 2-3 hours required for immigration clearance/paperwork etc. We met Cruiseport Marina's agent at 8:30am to start the process. However, we were told "Port Captain is too busy today... we'll go mañana".  So, we agreed to meet Friday morning.

Friday morning: "Port Captain closes early today and everything very busy at CIS" (where immigration, port captain, customs, fishing license, and the Banjercito bank are all located in one place -- apparently one of only two ports in Mexico with this). "We will do it Monday morning".

OK, so we'll be illegal aliens for a few more days. Supposedly, no-one cares (turns out this is not true, but we encountered no issues with this*).

Monday morning, it turns out that the same had been said to many other boats. To top it off, our marina had only one agent to help. (However, Enrique proved to be excellent.) We were shuttled off to CIS -- we were lucky (?) to be first in line from our marina. CIS was very busy (huh? I thought last week was the busy week) -- lots of boats put off to Monday.

All went well, especially with the help of Enrique. Then it was time for David to push the red light/green light at customs (anyone who has flown into Mexico will recall these stoplights -- supposedly they are random, and getting a "Green" means you are clear to pass; "Red" means ??). Of course, as David pushes the button, the red flashes and a very loud buzzer goes off. Everyone turns to see who was the unlucky one, staring at David.

What it meant was that customs had to come down to the boat to inspect it. We had to wait a while until a customs officer was available and Enrique called a driver. Now, we could say that Pelagia was thoroughly searched; indeed, torn apart. We could say the customs confiscated our wine and spirits and all our food. But, in reality, our customs officer turned out to be a very relaxed young woman who joked with our driver and Enrique, who came to the boat but never stepped on to it. She asked no questions but only wanted a photo of our Hull Identification Number (she asked David to take the photo) and one photo of the boat. She asked not a single question. It was all very pleasant (well, except for David worrying after the red light/buzzer went off).

To top it off, because of our extra customs visit, we got back to the boat faster than anyone else.




* One boat was told they had to pay a US$300 fine, but this eventually dropped to $0 when they objected, saying the marina told them to wait.

Adios USA; Hola Mexico!

After an overnight motor (yes, that's right, David missed the winds again), we are now at the dock in Ensenada. We made it to Mexico!

(Can we come home now? Just kidding....)

Excitement last night came in the form of a stealth boat roaring up to us in the pitch-black night at 11:30 pm. No lights and amazingly no radar image, just a loud roar and big wake. "David, get out here!!" Michelle yelled as he snoozed up forward -- she was thinking "pirates". Nope, just the Mexican Navy shining their spotlight on us (from perhaps 20 feet off our stern), checking us out. Guess they saw David's friendly wave (and that we were a yacht), as they roared away.

Probably be here a week. The fish (and shrimp, and...) tacos are to die for! Really glad to have finally made it to Mexico!

VANCOUVER to SAN FRANCISCO & S. CALIFORNIA: Pelagia's route (August - October, 2013)

We would NOT recommend going out so far (70-100 nm) off of Oregon/Northern California. Weather was MUCH better closer to shore (<20 nm). As a compromise, perhaps stay between 30-50 nm offshore so that one can go in closer depending on the weather forecast.

Arrived San Diego!

We've made all the way down the US west coast!

From Catalina Island, we had a long uneventful (calm) motor to Dana Point, where we spent the eve at anchor behind the breakwaters -- a very quiet night. Next day, we had a short motor over to Oceanside (where the Oceanside Yacht Club was very accommodating). Next day, we (mostly) sailed to Mission Bay, San Diego.

Mariner's Basin, Mission Bay

(Mission Bay's Mariner's Basin was a little tight, but a pretty anchorage; stay away from East shore as it is very shallow -- no permit required, max. stay 72 hours.   Back in the mid-80s, David lived one block from Mission Bay -- in Pacific Beach -- so this was an interesting return.)

Finally, on Tuesday (October 29th), we motored around Point Loma into San Diego harbour -- the end of some 1300 miles of travel down the USA west coast.

San Diego harbor itself is full of services for boaters. That's a positive. Unfortunately, the harbor authorities are not very "cruiser" friendly. Anchorages are few, require permits, and extremely limited (the "cruiser" anchorage allows only 20 boats and is full; other anchorages are either weekend only and/or limited to 72 hours). We are at the municipal "police docks": $1/ft/night with no security (docks are open 24 hours to the public) and limited, not-so-clean facilities (the men's has one toilet and one shower, and hasn't been cleaned for days), and the docks are a long way from shopping etc (with no bus service).  Arrangements are made by a computerized "kiosk" in English only -- no human greets (or helps) you. (Imagine how fun it would be to arrive in Ensenada, and have a Spanish-only computer be your check-in/moorage mechanism.)

[Nearby yacht clubs are closer to the bus, and have secure facilities, but unlike anywhere else in California, they quoted us market rates ($1.50/ft) and would not provide us "reciprocal" moorage  (typically 1-2 free nights and much-reduced cost for subsequent nights). But, perhaps we should have splurged and paid the extra $22/night?]

Nevertheless, we are relieved to have arrived in San Diego. With our rental car, we can shop, visit and sightsee. And relax.


Cruising boats at Police Docks: SV Confidence, SV Green Panther; SV Jugette

Catalina hiking

On our day off on Catalina, we went for a walk from Isthmus Cove over to Cat harbour (an easy 20-30 minute walk) on the other side of the island. Looking up, we thought we should go up to get a better view. Typical of us, we went all the way to the top.  (Good trail but steep up from Cat Harbour, but there actually was a gentle road to follow on the way down to Isthmus Cove).

Great views.

Looking down at Cat Harbour

At the top

Sweaty at the top -- Isthmus Cove in background

Ithmus between Cat Hbr and Isthmus Cove

Pelagia is down there

Hike route

We decided to skip Avalon. Although this weekend they were nowhere near full, we found the mooring buoys to be too packed-in (too close to other boats -- and no privacy) and we did not want to deal with them again in Avalon.

Also, the costs were, frankly, way too steep: $44/night for the buoy with a 9am checkout time, $3/person/trip for a water taxi (we used our dinghy), $2 for a 3-minute shower, etc, etc. (It would cost us about $20 to taxi ashore for a shower! Luckily we have a good shower on Pelagia.)

The walks on Catalina are good, the views great, and the water super clear with lots of fish. Worth a quick visit. But a "premier" cruising spot it is not.  Makes us realize we are soooo lucky in British Columbia!

Marina Del Rey to (Santa) Catalina Island

Had a easy 40-mile motor (including about 1 hour sailing) from Oxnard to Marina Del Rey. Calm, sunny and no problems.

Stayed at the municipal docks ($1/ft) where we had dinner with friends from SV Marova. Also, we were entertained by the sea lions on a dock nearby -- one of them Michelle named "Tom Jones" due to his very strong voice and masculine appearance.

Tom Jones and his entourage

Tom belts out a mean "Delilah"

Took a day off at Marina Del Rey, and went for a bike ride along the beaches from Venice Beach to Santa Monica. Venice Beach was quite the sight -- likely very toned down compared to a summer weekend -- quite the scene with some "interesting" characters. 

Pelagia & Marova at Marina Del Rey municipal docks

Had a wonderful sail from Marina Del Rey all the way over to Isthmus cove on Catalina Island (30 miles). Cove is quite pretty but the rows and rows of mooring buoys are quite something to see. Must be REALLY crowded in the summer! And the cost? $44/night for a 40-ft boat -- yikes!

On a mooring buoy, Isthmus Cove, Catalina

Relaxing days in Santa Barbara

Spent 5 nights/4 days mostly relaxing in Santa Barbara. Some bike riding, some socializing (with Al and Sandy on "Marova" and Dave and Betty-Ann on "Confidence" -- both B.C. boats), a little touring, and some boat work (replaced both fuel filters, plus gave Pelagia a good cleaning).

Weather was sunny and quite warm. Marina excellent. (Even though Marina police carry guns and Tasers, and put dye tablets in the head....)

We are currently in Channel Islands Harbour, Oxnard, after a 28-mile motor.

Motoring to Southern California

Pt. Conception lighthouse

We have finally made it to Southern California, having rounded Pt. Conception. Surprisingly, it actually did become warmer.

Anchored the night in Cojo anchorage -- totally exposed to any weather from the south, but good for prevailing northwesterlies. Two beached/wrecked sailboats on the shore attest to its dangers in storms. But this night, it was a calm (albeit rolly) anchorage.

Cojo anchorage

Next day, a very warm, calm, windless motor to Santa Barbara. Some continuing issues with fuel contamination (making the motoring more tense than it should be).

Just before Santa Barbara, off of Goleta (where UCSB is located) we motored through several miles of oily water -- very smelly layer of oil 1-2 mm thick  -- supposedly "natural" oil seepage. (Hmmm, are they sure all those oil platforms have no role in this?)

Currently at the dock in Santa Barbara -- a VERY nice, clean and organized marina. They even put a dye tablet in our toilet so that we don't pollute the waters (Right, then what about all that oil polluting the waters?). Still, all the Harbor Patrol carry guns and Tazers, so we'll abide with their rules.

Monterrey to Morro Bay to Port San Luis

Overnight  "sail"  Monterrey to Morro Bay.  Started off 1pm in 20-25 kn winds on the nose,  causing us to single then double reef the mainsail.  Then settled down so that we eventually had all sails up. Just as it was getting dark,  off Pt.  Sur,  the winds died and it was then a long motor to Morro Bay.  Arrived approx. 1pm the next day in Morro Bay. 

Incredibly,  we are again having significant fuel contamination problems (even after "polishing" the fuel in Alameda!)...  have to stay on top of the Racor filter! 

Leaving Morro Bay -- WITH wind!

Morro Bay was a nice stop...  we could have stayed longer.  VERY helpful Harbour Patrol. Public dock facilities, however, were sorely lacking (especially bathrooms)!  But we wanted to get moving.  So we sailed (yes, sailed) the approx.  25 miles to Port San Luis,  where we are now anchored.  Harbour Patrol organized and helpful but the transient mooring buoys were placed in the worst place and far from shoreside amenities.  (Thanks for being welcoming....)  So we have anchored off Avila Beach. 

Pelagia (2nd from right) anchored off Avila Beach

Anchored with us were: SV Falcon VII, SV Cetus, and solo/engineless sailor SV Loon.

We stayed 2 nights at Avila -- we could have stayed more as we liked it.

Happy Thanksgiving all!