Bali is beautiful (and HOT!)

Dance in Bali

Bali rice terraces

After a couple nights in Thailand (great food!), we headed to Bali. First, to a lovely new-to-us small hotel in Sanur. We enjoyed its pool and the excellent Balinese food of restaurants nearby. We didn't specifically go for the beach -- luckily, as the beach at Sanur never seemed to be deeper than just below the knees! Entrance to our Sanur bungalow Pool at Sanur hotel  Sanur was a little too busy for us, plus our hotel had some negatives (too much smoking by the European owners...; an exceptionally busy street we had to cross -- literally taking chances with our lives -- to get to restaurants etc)... so we decided to head to north Bali to our 2011 favourite "Villa Jaya" in Lovina. That's where we are now. Wonderful place. Pool at Villa Jaya Villa Jaya, Lovina We will be here for a few more days. Trying to decide on next destination. It's all good :-) P.S. Temperatures are 32 degrees C (in the shade) We have a few photos of Bali & Lombok on FLICKR: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sv-pelagia/sets/72157632100719941/

Trail to Gosainkund: Panoramic Himalayan views

Views on the trail to Gosainkund are among the best of any trek we have done (although lodges were among the worst...).

Here is a brief video of the panorama high above Laurebina Yak (>4026m*), where we could see mountains of the Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh, Tibetan and Langtang Himalaya as we panned the camera.

Gosainkund (4321m)

At top of Laurebina Pass (4600 m)

Looking back up to Laurebina Pass (pass is notch on the left) from Tharepati

A couple days later, in Helambu on the other side of the Laurebina Pass, we had superb views of Langtang, Dorje Lapka and the Jugal Himal, Gauri Shankar and, finally, the mountains of the Khumbu  (including Everest and Makalu).

View from Tharepati (3700m) in Helambu

Helambu view of Khumbu Himal

* Many trekkers simply don't take the risks of AMS (acute mountain sickness) seriously; nevertheless, most of these are lucky and do OK. But many ruin their trek, and, each year, a few die. 

For those wondering, we had no symptoms of AMS on our trek. To be sure, we were out-of-breath at times, but this is normal. We have trekked many times -- this is our 11th (!) trek --  and are careful about our daily altitude gain. Even supposedly "mild" AMS symptoms make you feel pretty miserable, so why ruin your trek? This means we sometimes take a day or so longer than others. But we personally have seen many people mildly and some even seriously ill from AMS, and know of trekkers who have died. On this particular trek this year (Gosainkund), we came across two persons suffering AMS (one so serious he was passed out and was being carried down) -- in both cases they had come up in the opposite direction and had gone too fast.

Nepal 2012: Our two treks (route maps)

Below are maps of our two treks:

Trek #1: Short Annapurna "Panorama"

Trek #2: Langtang to Gosainkund to Helambu

 

Photos of these treks are posted on FLICKR (see "Photo Sets" links on upper right)

ARE WE CRAZY? (Langtang, Gosainkund & Helambu trek)

Heading up to Gosainkund

Sometimes we wondered! We are now back in Kathmandu, after completing the 15-day (plus 1 travel day) Langtang --> Gosainkund --> Helambu --> Kathmandu trek. 57 years of age, carrying our own packs -- we had many days of reasonably strenuous trekking. Bedtime was 630pm, or, on a late night, we stayed up to 7pm :-) We prefer to trek independently without guide or porter (on teahouse treks such as this, guides really are not needed -- despite what Nepalis say). * Yes, we often called ourselves "crazy" (among other stronger terms), but we feel a true sense of accomplishment (on this 11th, and perhaps last, trek). On our last morning of trekking, we chanced upon two young Israeli trekkers, who stopped us and asked (in a nice way): "Excuse us for us asking, but how old are you two? 57!? We only hope, but doubt, that we have the ability to do what you are doing when we reach 57!" That's how we feel. Then we got down and off that g-d trail and back to Kathmandu! End of trek (Sundrijal) Photos of our Langtang-Gosainkund-Helambu trek are posted on FLICKR: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sv-pelagia/sets/72157631932317923/ We head off to Thailand November 7th, then to Bali on November 9th. * This is not to say we do not like guides. Indeed, we have done several enjoyable treks with guides, including the previous two treks with guide (and friend) Dorjee. Nevertheless, on "teahouse" treks where, usually, routes are clearly marked and lodge staff easy to communicate with, we prefer the freedom of being independent.

Back from 6-day "warm-up" trek, heading out now for 14-16 days trek

Sitting down for tea at Chomrong

We had a good "warm-up" trek in the middle hills of Annapurna. A few quite tough days, a couple moderate half-days, and a "rest day". But it was real hot trekking (30 deg C). We have posted pictures on FLICKR: http://m.flickr.com/photos/sv-pelagia/sets/72157631781243373/ We head up to Langtang area tomorrow, planning a 15-day trek Langtang then Gosainkund, then down to Helambu down to the Kathmandu valley. Odd, we've been so many times to Nepal, but never to Langtang. More later. David & Michelle

Escape from Kathmandu (now in Pokhara)

Two nights in noisy smoggy chaotic Kathmandu was too much for us (and to think, it is our 10th time here). The air pollution is just way too much. But is was our neighbour's dog that howled all night that did us in! We are now in quiet peaceful clean-air Pokhara. Seems like an oasis. Will likely start trek #1 (a short one first) tomorrow.

Heading off today to Kathmandu

We are off to Asia today. One month in Nepal, then 1.5 months in Indonesia and Thailand....