Seasons Greetings!

To all our friends, family, and blog readers (both regular and occasional), we wish you the best of the season and for the new year, wherever you may be.

2015: A very busy season for hurricanes in the Eastern Pacific and Mexico

According to NOAA, the 2015 Eastern Pacific Hurricane Season was a record-setting season:

The eastern Pacific saw 18 named storms, including 13 hurricanes, nine of which became major.  This is the first year since reliable record keeping began in 1971 that the eastern Pacific saw nine major hurricanes. Hurricane Patricia was the strongest hurricane on record in the Western Hemisphere in terms of maximum wind speed at 200 miles per hour and lowest air pressure at 879 millibars. Hurricane Sandra, which formed at the tail end of the season, was the strongest hurricane in the eastern Pacific so late in the year, with a maximum sustained wind speed of 145 miles per hour.

The central Pacific shattered its records too, with 14 named storms, including eight hurricanes, five of which became major hurricanes, the most active season since reliable record-keeping began in 1971. Three major hurricanes (Ignacio, Kilo and Jimena) churned at the same time east of the International Dateline, the first time that was ever recorded.

2015 Tropical Storms/Hurricanes

Source: NOAA


Hurricanes approaching Baja California as early as early June (H. Blanca) and as late as late November (H. Sandra).

Something to think about when planning sailing to/from Baja California!

Cruising Desolation Sound in September

Entering Desolation Sound (Mt. Denman in centre)

Coming home from Mexico, we were hankering to get back up to Desolation Sound. Beautiful protected anchorages, warm swimming (ocean and lakes), wilderness areas and unpopulated islands. Nearby, also, are the "Discovery Islands" (Quadra & Cortes Islands). The problem, however, is that in July and August, Desolation Sound and nearby areas are teaming with boats (most from the USA) and anchorages are very crowded. In August 2012, we counted at least 80 boats anchored in Tenedos Bay.

Returning to Desolation this year, we decided to give September a try -- hopefully most boats will have gone home.

We had sailing friends from our days in the Sea of Cortez join us on this trip. Lance and Jennifer from SV Kylahi (currently in La Paz) drove from Edmonton to Okeover Inlet to join us on Pelagia for 7 days. Bob and Dee Dee sailed SV Sunshine -- which was shipped home on the MV Tiberborg together with Pelagia -- from Pender Island to join us in Desolation.

Our trip up the coast, started just before Labour Day, was a calm motor; no sailing but happily no northwest winds to bash against. It was immediately obvious that there was a constant parade of boats heading South. This was a good sign. Of course, part of the reason for their heading South was the cool, cloudy (and rainy) weather.

Dark clouds over Sechelt

Our first anchorage in Desolation Sound was back to Tenedos Bay. Much to our pleasure, there were only a couple boats anchored when we arrived. After initial failed attempts to anchor without stern tying, we ended up stern-tied with perhaps 6 boats. A far cry from 80 boats!

Leaving the Tenedos Bay NW anchorage: so few boats in September!

However, the water ocean temperature was only about 17 degrees C, a far cry from 21-23 degrees in August. No swimming here this time.

We then moved over to Isabel Bay, a tiny protected anchorage off of Lancelot Inlet. The 1-2 boat small northern nook is one of our favourite anchorages -- in July/August we have often turned away as it is occupied. This September, we were the only boat.

Pelagia in Isabel Bay

Isabel Bay

After Isabel Bay, we picked up Lance and Jennifer at the dock at Okeover Landing, then motored over to the outer part of Grace harbour, behind Jean island, where we rafted-up with Bob and Dee Dee on SV Sunshine. A great reunion of La Paz cruisers ensued.

La Paz Cruisers' party time on Pelagia (in Desolation Sound)

A highlight for us was an over-1-hour show by a rambunctious family of  five orcas, off of Mink Island in Desolation Sound:

Lance and Jennifer watching Orca show

We shut down the motor and drifted as the orcas swam past us close by

 
Subsequent anchorages in the Desolation Sound area where we overnighted:

Laura Cove: Perhaps 6 boats anchored. Good oysters and clams outside of cove in Homfray Channel.

Roscoe Bay: On our 2nd night here, there were only 3 boats. Black Lake was still warm for swimming -- all six of us went for a swim. Roscoe Bay itself was 19 degrees C -- David went for a swim (changing a shaft zinc). Four of us hiked up Mt. Llanover, requiring about 1.5 hours to reach the top (as usual).

At the top of Mt Llanover

The view from Mt. Llanover (looking southeast over Desolation Sound (Black Lake below)

Squirrel Cove: The most "crowded" anchorage (perhaps 20 boats). Some were swimming -- we found it too cold.

Small Islets (Lancelot/Theodosia Inlets): A new anchorage to us. Lots of odd current.

Grace Harbour (inner harbour): Headed here after dropping off Lance and Jennifer back at Okeover Landing. Usually far too crowded, but not in September!

Cortes Bay: Some love this bay; other hate it. We generally like it due to its position (a good place to arrive from/leave to the south) and to the hiking nearby. However, to our disappointment, the best anchoring area (south of the public dock) is now taken up by a permanently moored dock (with 2 boats) and other moorings. We anchored in the north end -- alone -- which worked out well as there were no winds and only a couple transient boats anchored.

We headed back south from Cortes Bay -- unfortunately getting caught in a southeasterly resulted in about 2 hours of bashing in Malaspina Strait (not too bad, could of been worse). A last night anchored off of Camp Artaban in Howe Sound -- an old favourite of ours -- before returning home to the Vancouver Rowing Club.

All-in-all, a great trip! We were away about 2 weeks, and had six nights of socializing, with 6 of us for dinners on Pelagia. Anchorages this September were either empty or uncrowded. Weather in Desolation Sound this September was variable, including clouds, a little rain, and several sunny days. Every night was dead calm (no wind and no waves -- such a change from the Sea of Cortez). Unfortunately, ocean temperatures were mostly too cold for swimming.

Desolation Sound's hot days and warm ocean temperatures in July/August can make for a great time. However, the huge crowds of the Summer are too much for us. Desolation Sound in September works better for the crew of Pelagia.

Pelagia in Desolation Sound, September 2015

A new (ski) season begins...

2015 opening day at Whistler: November 19th!

How November has changed for us!

Last year at this time, we were in Mazatlan, preparing to sail Pelagia across the Sea of Cortez back up to La Paz.  Two years ago (November, 2013), we were sailing Pelagia down the west coast of the Baja California peninsula.

This year, we are home living in Whistler, excited to spend this Winter skiing (with a sail or two or three in between). 

Ski season began early today.  We joined many other exuberant "opening day" skiers/riders and had a nice day skiing under sunny blue skies. 

Meanwhile, down in the valley not all bears were hibernating....

Nov 20: bear chowing down on Whistler Golf Course

A few weeks in Greece...

 Day 1: A very rainy day at the Acropolis

It's the in-between time at home in Whistler,  as we wait for snow.  And the weather is also less conducive for sailing (though we do plan to sail some this Winter).

So, we have taken off to Greece for a few weeks,  with plans to visit places in the Peloponnese as well as Crete.

We'll be posting photos to a "Greece 2015" album on our FLICKR account:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/sv-pelagia/99xjPv



UPDATE November 13, 2015: We're back home in Whistler. Trip to Greece was great (despite all the smokers and smoking).

Super Hurricane Patricia comes ashore near Manzanillo

A huge hurricane,  Patricia packed winds of at least 150 knots.  Coming ashore near Manzanillo,  Patricia is the strongest  hurricane ever to hit the Americas (and possibly anywhere).

Our thoughts go out to friends with boats in the area, and especially to the Mexicans living and working in the area.



AFTER THE HURRICANE UPDATE:
Cruising boats in Barra de Navidad fared pretty well; locals not so well. Friends Betty Anne and David on SV Confidence have a full description of the experience of Hurricane Patricia on their blog: http://cruiseoftheconfidence.blogspot.gr/2015/10/hurricane-patricia-2015-part-three.html

Heading down the Pacific coast of Baja California? Create GPS-accurate electronic "charts" using SAT2CHART and SASPLANET satellite images

UPDATE: See this post:

The best chart package combination for Pacific Mexico: OpenCPN and O-CHARTS  

Recommends combination of OpenCPN/O-Charts MexicoENC/Blue Latitude chartlets. Includes a link to charts for Turtle Bay and Bahia Santa Maria, missing from the SEMAR ENC-chart collection (for west coast Baja).  

UPDATE: Better image chart etc (from ArcGIS) for Abreojos BCS, plus link to download for Abreojos waypoint (gpx) and image (kap) files. Scroll to bottom. 

UPDATE:  I find it easier to make these charts using the combination of SASPlanet, ArcGIS ESRI, and SAT2CHART. MBTILES is the better format.

UPDATE: The "chartlocker" has free, pre-made, mbtiles of satellite charts for Baja (and elsewhere): https://chartlocker.brucebalan.com/ 

UPDATE: Google Earth images are reasonably good, but other sources provide even better (higher resolution/clearer images). I find Bing much better than Google Earth; sometimes better are the images from ArcGIS ESRI. Use free SASPlanet software to make charts from ESRI. "How to" explained here.



On previous posts, we discussed various charts, official Mexico nautical charts, cruising guides, weather sources, and  communications. In the current post, we discuss using GPS-accurate electronic "charts" derived from Google-Earth images to supplement navigation resources when cruising the Pacific coast of Baja California.

March 2016: see also post concerning CM93 electronic charts.

THE PROBLEM: When we left Ensenada in November 2013 to sail down the Pacific coast of Baja California, we had our first encounters with navigating a coast where charts were often out-of-date, inaccurate, and lacking detail.

We had two guidebooks, both new (2013) editions (Charlie's Charts; and  Rain's Mexico Boating Guide). We also had paper charts in a Yachtsman's Chartbook, and CM93 electronic charts -- both of which we could see, before leaving, were lacking sufficient detail and accuracy. Importantly, in addition to these, we had an up-to-date C-MAP chart card for our Furuno chartplotter (also usable in our computer). In some places, the C-MAP card showed much better detail than the CM93 or Yachtsman's charts; in many other places the C-MAP chart were also lacking sufficient detail. In contrast with the excellent accuracy of the C-MAP charts in the USA and Canada, we had no idea as to the GPS accuracy of these charts in Baja California.

Two nights and two days after leaving Ensenada, wanting some sleep, we considered anchoring on the east side of Cedros Island at an anchorage called "La Palmita", indicated by both guide books. However, without any information on a chart or guidebook chartlet, zero detail on the C-MAP chart, and a depth sounding far off of what we were recording, we chickened out and continued on to Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay) -- losing about 1 hour of valuable daylight.

No detail and inaccurate chart for Isla Cedros' La Palmita anchorage: well within the "10 foot" depth contour, we still had >150' showing; it didn't help that the anchorage waypoint was showing on land. So we gave up and headed for Turtle Bay. (Interestingly, only a couple nautical miles south, the chart became very detailed (i.e., C-MAP included the new Mexican/SEMAR chart for Cedros town, produced in 2012.)

With daylight fading, we just made it through the "Canal de Dewey" (narrow channel between Punta Eugenia & Isla Natividad) before dark -- with so many lobster traps, so much kelp, and reefs, combined with currents, we would never do Dewey in the dark.


In contrast to most anchorages down Baja's Pacific coast, the C-MAP chart for Turtle Bay had quite a bit of detail. However, as we sailed towards Turtle Bay in the dark, we did not yet know whether or not there was a 1-2 nm offset (error) to the charts. Our radar proved to very useful that night. Nevertheless, it was not until the morning, when we were safely anchored and could clearly see all of Turtle Bay that we concluded the C-MAP Turtle Bay chart is indeed pretty accurate.  (Radar and charts, however, could not show the many lobster buoys at the entrance to Turtle Bay. We were lucky we made it through these in the dark!)

We did not have Navionics charts back in 2013. However, reviewing Navionics charts now (2015), we see similar accuracy between Navionics and C-Map charting for the Pacific coast of Baja. (In the Sea of Cortez, we have found that Navionics charts are not as up-to-date as C-Map; for example: Altata, Loreto, and, south of the Sea, San Blas.

The guidebooks provide many useful waypoints for anchorages. Although the location of these waypoints are indicated on the guides' chartlets, these chartlets are not usually very detailed (Charlie's Charts' chartlets appear to be handdrawn). So, one cannot be sure of the accuracy or location of these waypoints.

A PARTIAL SOLUTION: Reading other cruisers' blogs (see, for example: SV Totem; SV Ocelot; SV Valhalla; SV Soggy Paws), we came to a (partial) solution to the above chart inaccuracies and uncertainty about waypoints: creating GPS-accurate electronic "charts" from Google Earth (GE). Specifically, we used three excellent programs, all freely available: GE2KAP (now "SAT2CHART") and Google Earth to create the GE-based electronic raster charts (each with .kap extensions), and the OpenCPN charting program to display the charts as well as the guides' waypoints. Although the GE-based raster "charts" do not provide depth sounding and other underwater data, one can clearly see land-based features (buildings, beaches, wharves, etc) and their relationship to the ocean, and usually, one can clearly see shallows, underwater spits, breaking waves, and often reefs. Moreover, entering the guides' waypoints allows one to see exactly where the waypoints are relative to the shore features.  Any offset in other electronic charts can also be determined. As with other electronic charts, one can use OpenCPN with a GPS to plot your vessel's position on the GE-based chart.

Unfortunately, we did not figure the above out until after we rounded Cabo San Lucas and reached the Sea of Cortez. Although we found the GE-based charts sometimes helpful in the Sea, they are not needed as much as there are excellent harbour/anchorage charts for the Sea of Cortez available from Shawn and Heather's Blue Latitude Press cruising guides, electronic waypoints, and electronic charts (also available for mainland Mexico, but not for the Pacific coast of Baja).

AN EXAMPLE: Abreojos, located between Turtle Bay and Bahia Santa Maria on Baja's Pacific coast, provides an excellent example of the utility of the GE-based "charts". The paper and electronic charts for Abreojos lack both detail and accuracy. The images below show what we had available as well as what we could have had if we had been using GE-based charts.

[After leaving Turtle Bay, we headed for Abreojos, with the intent of anchoring for a night. However, when as close as 10 nm away from Abreojos (we could see its main lighthouse), we found ourselves bashing into 10-20 kn SE winds. We figured these winds would blow directly into the exposed anchorage and, given the sketchy charts and numerous surrounding reefs, we changed course and headed directly to Bahia Santa Maria, another night and day away.]

The Yachtman's paper chart for Abreojos

Abreojos chartlet from Rain's "Mexico Boating Guide" Anchorage waypoints were given in the text.

Abreojos chartlet from Charlie's Charts: only the entry waypoint (for avoiding reefs) given.

CM93-2007 electronic chart at maximum resolution. Waypoints from both guidebooks are shown, as well as the location of the lighthouse (from the Mexican "List of Lights")

The CM93 chart shows little detail and, assuming the waypoints are accurate, the electronic chart is clearly inaccurate (the main lighthouse is missing, the light on the hill is no longer in use, and the El Campo anchor waypoint is on land...).

C-MAP electronic chart showing Abreojos (at maximum resolution). Waypoints from both guidebooks are shown, as well as the location of the lighthouse (from the Mexican "List of Lights")

Navionics (2015): provides same (lack of) detail and inaccuracy as C-MAP (2015)

The C-MAP electronic chart provides a little more detail (although with very few depth soundings). Waypoints seem reasonably located. Again, the main lighthouse is missing or inaccurately located. (The lighthouse shown high up on the hill behind the town has long been out of use.)

The Navionics chart is much the same as the C-MAP.



Google-Earth "Charts":

Smaller-scale Google Earth "chart" (created using GE2KAP) overlaid on CM93 chart.

Google Earth "chart" (created using GE2KAP), zoomed in on the "Town" anchorage. Location of Rains' anchor waypoint now accurately shown relative to beach. Shallows and some reefs are also visible,

The town buildings and beach are clearly visible, as is the anchorage waypoint position relative to the beach, breakers, and the lighthouse.

Google Earth "chart" (created using GE2KAP), zoomed in on the "El Campo" anchorage (Rains). Location of anchor waypoint now accurately shown relative to beach. Shallows and some reefs are also visible.

As above, the Abreojos "El Campo en Medio" anchorage east of town is shown clearly on this zoomed-in larger-scale GE-based chart. Shallows (or reefs) are shown fairly close inshore of the anchorage.

We wished we had had these Google-earth based "charts" setup for our sail down the Pacific coast of the Baja peninsula. With the combination of the Rain's and Charlie's Charts guides, C-MAP charts, and the GE-based image charts, we would have felt far more confident navigating closer to shore. We highly recommend cruisers planning their trip down the Baja peninsula prepare GE-based image charts before heading south.

[See update below regarding ESRI ArcGIS satellite images.]


RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Before leaving Ensenada, try to obtain the new detailed large-scale Mexican charts from SEMAR (there is a chart sales office in Ensenada*). NOTE: These charts are now available online digitally from O-CHARTS (see this March 2022 blog post). The reasonably up-to-date smaller-scale SEMAR charts -- all corrected to WGS84 datum -- would also be useful. (This may be easier said than done; we didn't learn about SEMAR until after leaving Ensenada. Ability to speak Spanish likely a huge help. Our attempt to obtain these electronic charts in La Paz was not successful, though we did find detailed paper charts.) Charts are the same price for paper or electronic (raster) formats. If you are bypassing Ensenada, you might consider a land trip from San Diego to Ensenada (bus travel is very easy). (But it would be a shame to miss Ensenada as it is a great cruising stop: easiest check-in to Mexico, excellent marinas, excellent provisioning (Soriana, Costco, etc), the best fish/shrimp tacos in Mexico, and a great bar (Hussong's).) 
• If you are using C-MAP (or Navionics -- we've found they have similar issues; for example, see above, or this Latitude38 article on Navionics) chart cards, ensure they are up-to-date!
• Obtain up-to-date cruising guides for Baja California. Enter their relevant waypoints into electronic form so you can transfer these to your chartplotter and your navigation computer/tablet charting program (easily done using GPSUtility) . (Also, you might be able to obtain trustworthy waypoints from other cruisers experienced with Baja.)
• Using GE2KAP (now called SAT2CHART) and Google Earth (better, use BING or ESRI ArcGIS images), create GE-image charts for each Pacific-coast Baja anchorage you expect to stop at (and consider alternate anchorages). In many cases, you will want a small-scale zoomed-out image chart as well as a large-scale, zoomed-in/detailed image chart. (Alternatively, using the "tile" function in GE2KAP -- or the "Stitch" function in SASPlanet -- one can make one chart with very high zooms.)
• Load these into your navigation software, such as OpenCPN (these GE-image-charts will not likely be usable on your boat's dedicated chartplotter). UPDATE: Make image-charts from more-accurate ESRI satellite images.
• Use multiple sources of information while navigating down the Baja Peninsula; learn to use your radar.

*LOCATION OF CHART SALES IN ENSENADA: Estación de Investigación Oceanográfica de Ensenada, B.C.,  Boulevard Costero y Agustín Sangines (A & B), Ensenada, B.C. 22800 Tel. +52  (646) 172-5743   Email: oceanografia_eda@hotmail.com 


UPDATE:

Using ESRI ArcGIS satellite images, I am able to pinpoint position of the Rocas Ballena and La Rechinadora rocks, dangerous rocks just NW of Punta Abreojos. I have made waypoints for these rocks.

The ArcGIS images are more-detailed than the Google Earth images. In the pictures below, I have plotted the various waypoints on an ArcGIS image (a little blurry in this blog image), on a CM93-2012 chart (which has much better detail than the older CM93 above, BUT chart datum is clearly off), as well as a zoom-in on the anchorages.

If you are interested in obtaining a zip file containing: (i) a GPX waypoint filefor Abreojos, and (ii) and two image "charts" for Abreojos (one zoomed in and the other smaller scale/overview),Click here to download.   NOTE, the information in these files comes with no warranty and should not be used for real-time navigation. Use at your own risk!