Back down to Desolation Sound area...

Huaskin Lake... easily accessed from Turnbull Cove

Weather in the Broughtons improved somewhat (it's all relative... highs were never more than 15°C), so we kept exploring, including Joe Cove (new to us, as was Monday Anchorage), Waddington Bay, Cullen Harbour, and Turnbull Cove. Sadly, our cruising buddies Gillian and David on SV Carousel decided to head back south after Waddington Bay (our social "bubble" burst, decreasing to 4).

Turnbull was new to us. An excellent anchorage (and not crowded this year), its cold water was chocolate brown from nearby streams. But it held a treat: a 10-minute hike uphill brings one to Huaskin Lake, with a convenient dock and ladder for swimming. Surprisingly, the water temperature was quite comfortable for a swim. We also enjoyed socializing with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter (part of our original 6-person social "bubble").

Turnbull Cove was technically the furthest north we would go this year, but we did venture further west to Blunden Harbour. Blunden is a favourite, but this time we got to endure 12 hours of winds, gusting to 27 knots. Fortunately, there was plenty of space and good holding (mud), so we didn't budge. Still, never "fun".

We then headed across to Port McNeill to reprovision, opting to stay 2 nights to be more relaxed. Besides, Port McNeill deserves it, being so welcoming during these COVID-19 times (in contrast with Sointula, which we normally prefer, but we skipped this year as they are not being so "open" to visiting boaters).

After McNeill, we headed back into the Broughtons, staying a night behind Dead Point, which had too many commercial crab traps (far too common an issue in the area) but was nice and quiet (we were solo). Then we rejoined Chanter in Port Harvey, with a plan to head down Johnstone Strait in the early morning.

After our slow trip bucking the flood tide coming up Johnstone 3 weeks earlier, we were worried going in the morning when the ebb was in play would again be a problem. It wasn't. We had a great sail down Johnstone Strait, then Sunderland Channel. We temporarily anchored for lunch (KD time on Pelagia) waiting for Whirlpool Rapids to quiet down, then sailed again up Chancellor Channel, all the way to Greene Point rapids (where we reached 11 knots going with the flood). Altogether, we sailed half the distance. A good day, with our hydrovane Finn doing a great job.

A night anchored in Cordero Islands (and dinner with Chanter), then we headed through the Yaculta Rapids (surprisingly devoid of usual many gin palaces... well, there was one) and down to the Desolation Sound area, to Hathayim/Von Donop Inlet.

Here in Von Donop, the weather has been hot (30°C) and the water warm (20°C) for swimming. Although far busier than the Broughtons (or Von Donop last month) , the 34 boats total on  our first night back are far less than the usual 50-60 boats of normal years. (Indeed, yesterday and today, the numbers have dropped to 15-20 boats.)

We expect to be home no later than August 7-10th. Until then? Plans are flexible.

To the Broughtons...

SVs Carousel, Pelagia and Chanter anchored in Monday Anchorage

 

After nearly a month in the Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area, it was time to move on.

Our time in Desolation Sound started with nearly empty anchorages combined with only "warmish" air and (sea) water temperatures (too cold for us to swim). By the end, seas had warmed up so that we were enjoying swimming, there were some sunny days, and the anchorages definitely becoming busy. Not the pre-Covid-19 stupid-busy with 60-80 boats (and often majority American boats), but busy such that we'd see 15-20 (Canadian) boats. Call it "Canadian busy".

So it was time to move on.

We headed to the Broughtons, with hope of empty anchorages, mild bucolic days, and wildlife. We got some of this, including many black bear sightings, a close-up in our kayaks with a wading grizzly bear, and many whale sightings.

Getting to the Broughtons, however, included a real slog bucking the tide in Johnstone Strait (wasn't supposed to be a flood with 5+ knots against us!) that happily ended with a great 9-mile sail (steered by Finn, our windvane).

The weather for the first week in the Broughtons was better than forecasted, allowing for many kayak trips. But never that warm. The past few days, unfortunately, have been soaked with torrential rains and some wind. And the coming week has rainfall predicted every day.
Making us consider returning south (well, actually east) back down Johnstone to Desolation and perhaps home.

But first, we are giving it another try in the northern Broughtons. Currently, we are anchored in "Monday Anchorage" (don't be fooled by its name: Monday is not a good anchorage in windy weather), waiting/hoping for the rain to let up.

We shall see....


Update: the rain did indeed end, in time for drinks in the cockpit before dinner.

Windlass woes (and eventual win)

Windlass motor with broken "up" stub (circled)

 

 

June 16, 2020:

Can't always be fun and games.... 

Windlass problems occur every once in a while (in case you are wondering, the windlass is the equipment we use to raise/lower the anchor). But our problem turned out to be terminal: our positive "up" terminal had sheared off, and this meant the end for the motor. 

Of course, it happened when we had a lot of chain out (230'). Fortunately, back in 2008, we purchased a "manual recovery kit" for the windlass. Unfortunately, it was very hard work for David to bring it all up. Nearing the end, he was sweating hard and taking multiple breather breaks. But up it came. 

We headed to the docks of Refuge Cove, where David removed the motor/gearbox assembly. It did not look good (as we said, it was "terminal"). At least it was easy to remove. 

Next morning, we started making calls. First call was to Ocean Pacific Marine in Campbell River. Using our part number, they said it looked like it would have to be ordered from England. Yikes! We started planning a fast return to our docks in Vancouver. But, 20 minutes later, they us called back, saying there was a new part number and indeed, there was a replacement in Victoria. It was Friday morning and they should be able to get it to Campbell River by Monday "11ish".

Only $2300.... 

After a couple of nights at the dock at Refuge Cove (where we sorted out our backup - - and much lighter -- anchor line), we headed over to Gowlland Harbour (very near Campbell River) to try anchoring without a windlass for a couple of nights. Turned out to be a great anchorage (tons of room with only 1 other boat). Later, using a winch on the mast, we had no problem getting our anchor (with lighter line) up. 

Monday morning, we headed over to the Discovery Marina in Campbell River, where Ocean Pacific Marine was conveniently located. By 1130am, the new windlass motor assembly had arrived. After some concern it was the wrong part (it may have been mislabled... but phone calls to distributor indicated it would only fit properly if it were correct), David installed it (in between torrents of rain). And it worked! 

Next morning, we headed back over to Cortes Island, to Hathayim/Von Donop Marine Park, a favourite of ours. 

A pricey part, but still a "win" since we could do our own repairs, and get back  cruising. 

Desolation Sound 2020: Canadian boats only!

Laura Cove in mid-June: Amazingly empty!

Desolation Sound in the summer is normally a very crowded affair. It is not uncommon to find 50-80 boats in each anchorage. For us, some anchorages are simply "no go" places in the Summer, such as Prideaux Haven (many large motor yachts -- "gin palaces" -- among 50-80 other boats) or Laura Cove (stern-tied boats packed together like sardines). 

Typically, 70-80% of the boats in Desolation in the Summer are boats from the USA. Like many Canadian boaters, we admit too often being upset to have so many American boats taking up most of the anchor spaces, leaving little space for us, and certainly no feeling of "wilderness" or privacy. We have often wished there was some way to limit the number of American boats in order to give some priority, some access, to local boats. (Don't get me wrong: there is nothing inherently wrong with our neighbours visiting from the south, it is just that there are SO MANY of them!) 

Well, it turns out there is a way...

Unfortunately, it took a pandemic to clear out the anchorages. Especially with the COVID-19 pandemic so out-of-control in many USA states, the Canada-USA border has been closed to non-essential travel (since early April) and will stay closed until at least July 21st (after which the closure could again be extended). 

We've spent the past 2 weeks enjoying our cruising of the Desolation Sound area. Anchorages have been remarkably quiet and empty: perhaps about 10% of the usual number of boats. (For example, here in Von Donop Inlet, there are currently only 5 boats, when normally, in mid-late June, there would be 30+ boats.) There are also fewer Canadian boats than usual, but these are now starting to increase in numbers as restrictions in BC ease. 1

We are spending extra time here in Desolation Sound, as it not likely we'll ever get to see Desolation so uncrowded (in the summer) again. I'm sorry for the American boaters wishing to come north to experience our wilderness (we are in regular communication on HAM radio with some American boaters, regular summer visitors to B.C. waters, who seem shocked and very unhappy to be excluded from Canadian waters, as if somehow we have trampled on their "rights"). 

These are remarkable times, and the differences between our two countries have never been more evident. It might not be until the Fall (or even next year), but hopefully the situation south (and  north) of the USA-Canada border will significantly improve, and the border will reopen and we will once again welcome our southern neighbours. 

Until then, we will enjoy our uncrowded B.C. waters with other fellow Canadian boaters. 

1. We hear that anchorages down in Washington State are also/currently very uncrowded, so it's a good time for Washington boaters to explore their home waters. 

Off for a summer (?) cruise... despite COVID-19

Heading towards Texada Island/Welcome Passage

After weeks of deliberation and occasional disagreement, we have left Whistler and Vancouver for a 1-3-month cruise North/West. 

British Columbia had seriously "flattened the curve" and business and provincial parks are opening up, especially June 1st. An interesting change is that only BC residents are allowed to camp in BC Parks this Summer (David is not 100% in favour of this idea; they should be open to other Canadians... and vice versa), and USA-Americans cannot cross the border for non-essential purposes until at least June 21.That means 60-70% fewer boats in Desolation Sound. Finally we can visit in high season and not fight for space in our own province! 

We had originally planned to go to Haida Gwaii (for a 4th time), but that is very very unlikely as the Haida are currently not welcoming visitors. Indeed, how far we do go will depend a lot on whether communities start to welcome boaters. We shall see... certainly Desolation Sound. 

In the meantime, we have fully provisioned Pelagia, so no need to shop in small communities.    

Stocked up for the trip

Currently at the Vancouver Rowing Club outstation in Pender Harbour, where the resort has been very welcoming. 

Motoring past Howe Sound, Mt. Garibaldi in the distance (Whistler is past Mt. Garibaldi)

Physical distancing during COVID-19: A Canadian view...

from Wild Wise Sooke (https://www.wildwisesooke.com/)

We are going for daily walks here in Whistler, often around the Whistler Golf Course.

In the past week, we've seen two three black bears (one two on the golf course and one that crossed our path right in front of us). In these cases, we are maintaining much more than the 2m distance required between humans...!

Bear grazing on the golf course (April 12, 2020)

COVID-19: Whistler, British Columbia & Canada shutdown...

Illustration for The Tyee by Christopher Cheung. The Scream via Wikipedia, public domain; mask image via Wikipedia, public domain. https://thetyee.ca/News/2020/03/27/Coronavirus-Curated-Top-Links-March-27/

March 15th: Vail Resorts shuts down all of its ski resorts in North America, including Whistler-Blackcomb. (Within a few days afterwards, pretty well all ski areas in B.C. also shutdown.)

A sudden, surprising end to the ski season.

But that's nothing compared to what's happening across Canada and around the world, as the COVID-19 pandemic spreads.

Borders are closed (including all "non-essential" travel across the USA-Canada border). We, like almost all Canadians, are keeping our distance from others (physical distancing), going out only for required food (and liquor 😉) shopping, as well as walks (on the now-quiet Valley Trail) for fresh air and exercise.

(Well, David has driven down to the boat a couple of times; but still keeping isolated.)

Our plans to sail North on Pelagia this Summer would seem an excellent way to self-isolate (even our doctor thinks so), but...

Communities up-and-down the B.C. coast are circling-the-wagons and telling non-residents to stay away. Anchoring in coves away from communities should be fine, but we do have to re-provision, get water (though there are streams) and fuel up.

So, plans this Spring-Summer are truly "written in the sand at low tide". Still some time to go. We shall see.

Until then, we are trying to stay healthy, and wish the same for all others!

Empty Whistler (https://www.wayneflannavalancheblog.com/)