Off to Santorini

Looking back at Oia during Oia-to-Fira hike (Santorini)

We decided to check out Santorini. Everything we'd read told us two certain things, and one possibility: (i) Santorini is spectacular (it is!), (ii) Santorini gets incredibly overcrowded and is ruined by overtourism (in our mind, Santorini is a posterchild for the negatives of overtourism), and (iii) hopefully, by the end of October/early November, Santorini is not over-touristy (unfortunately, not in our experience).

But first we had to get there.

The F/B Prevelis is an older ship (built in 1980, which seems old compared to other ferries). Photos on the Anek Lines website show a sparkling interior; as we were to find out, the interior has seen a lot of wear-n-tear, there's rust,, and the shine is ooff. (These photos are kinda like looking at a lot of budget and midrange hotel websites; what you see is often not reality.)

As we noted in our last post, we chose this route because it had a good arrival time in Santorini and because we could see several other islands along the way. Before booking, we had read one comparision that really put the Prevelis in a positive light compared to the Blue Star Ferries. After booking, and after Stathis our Rhodes hotel manager said "it will be an adventure...😉😉", we did more research. Turns out the Prevelis is usually late, getting later and later after each island stop. Our hotel in Santorini also said it is also always late. The hotel also seemed to suggest they would only wait up until 12 midnight. (Turns out Blue Star Ferries are in lovely shape, are faster, and mostly ontime; not sure though what our hotel would have said about a 2am arrrival. We now believe arriving at such a late hour and the hotel would have accommodated us. But we didn't know that 'til later.) To try to "lock in" our arrival at the hotel, we had them arrange a driver to pick us up at the Santorini ferry... for a whopping 35 euros.

To give some time to sleep during the 14-hr trip, we booked a 2-bed cabin on the Prevelis. We did use it, but didn't really need it as there was plenty of room around the boat. (It also didn't help that ferry staff smoking in their cabin nearby ouurs droves us out for air a couple of times (smoking in Greece is a REAL problem!).)

Freshly-squeezed orange juice in lounge of Prevelis

Okay, in all fairness to the Prevelis: (i) it is a hard-working boat (it has a tough schedule to follow), with little rest between journeys, (ii) Ferry staff were good to us, (iii) although the self-service restaurant opening times confused us, we had good meals (lunch and dinner) at a decent price (perhaps 10% more than in Rhodes), AND, the most important, (iv) WE ARRIVED ESSENTIALLY ON TIME (perhaps 15-minutes late)! So the Prevelis worked out for us!

Stops along our Prevelis journey:
Nimporio (Halki Island)
Daifani (Karpathos Island)
Karpathos Town
Kasos
Anafi (arrived in the dark)
Santorini (arrived in the  dark)

We're going on a cruise! Leaving Rhodes Town on the Prevelis

"Our" beach: Elli beach

Arriving Nimporio, on Halki island

Tiny Nimporioo (Halki) is beautiful (not much else on this small island just off the island of Rhodes)

Much activity when the Prevelis arrives (Halki)

 

Daifani, Karpathos Island: Didn't look so inviting to us

Karpathos Town: Much larger than we expected; it looked interesting

Kasos seemed too isolated (on October 31) to us

We also stopped -- in the dark -- at Anafi's port (the main town is high up; we could see its lights).

We arrived in Santorini's main port at about 10:10pm (only 15 minutes late). Our driver waswaiting for the 9-km drive (35 euros; C$51!). All our worrying was for naught.... Our little hotel (and room with kitchenette) was lovely (Alonia Studios). We settled in for the night.

Arriving Santorini in the dark, we could see nothing. So next morning, we got out for a walk over to the edge of the "caldera" (Santorini is an extinct dormant volcano) and took a look: the views were pretty nice.

Our first Santorini view: looking up to Imerovigli from Firastefani

Looking down from Fira to old port (where cable car and donkeys start their climb up)

After our "oohs" and "ahhs" looking over the edge, we walked down to the main town Fira (we were staying in Firastefani, about 5-10 minutes walk from Fira). Suddenly, we were in crowds of tourists and multitudes of tourist junk stores. It was November 1st and supposedly uncrowded due to off-season, but in our view it was overcrowded and tacky. Then we started looking at "taverna" menus: prices were 2-3 times the prices at Rhodes (and often higher)! Yikes! Toto, we're not in Kansas any more.... We knew right there and then that 3 nights/2 days were all we could take of this overpriced, overtouristed place. Others may love it, but we hated it. We made plans to escape to another island.

Fira's main street

Even off season, when cruise ships arrive, Santorini (Fira & Oia) feels crowded

Turns out we had two cruise ships arrive, making it feel busy. We also learned that "real" cruise ships are still not our thing. (Thinking kindly of you F/B Prevelis!)

Cruise shippers being led around in a tour group in Fira (1 of 8 groups we saw in 15 minutes)

We did our research and found two tavernas outside of Fira that were decently reviewed with prices only a little above Rhodes' prices: fo one of them we had to walk up 20 minutes. None were in Fira.

Our next day, we had an excursion and hike planned. We would take the local bus from Fira to Oia, then do the 9+ km hike along the caldera rim back to our hotel in Firastefani. We could have booked a hiking company for 70 euros each (includes transport, guide, water and "snack"), but instead we made our own lunch, brought our own water (Santorini water is undrinkable; you have to buy bottled.... FYI. water on Rhodes was usually drinkable and OK.) then paid <3 euros each for the bus.

Fira-Oia hiking map: simple, clear, straightforward trail (NO guide required!)

Thirty minutes later, we got off the bus in Oia (about 11 am). We made away over to the caldera edge, and were immediately swamped with selfie-taking tourists. (I know, we take selfies too, but usually with few others around.) As usual, in our haste to get away from the hordes, we took no photos within Oia. But we do have nice shots of Oia from outside of Oia.

To be honest, the hike was pretty good, and the views were indeed absolutely stunning. Pretty easy, although it was hot with little-to-no shade, and no watering spots until we reached Immervigli. It took us 2.5 hours, excluding a sandwich break in the shade (which was rare). It is rocky, so running shoes or boots -- no open-toe sndals -- are recommended. There NO dangerous or tricky parts. About 5 minutes out of Oia, the crowds thinned considerably (guess cruise-ship folks and fancy-hotel guuests don't like to hike). Although the trail was busier than we like, it never felt crowded (after leaving Oia).

Oia

Oia

Further along the trail, looking back at Oia (OK, enough of Oia)

Trail always good, sometimes level but often up or down (yes, that's Michelle, she's always ahead when it's hot)

Half way, one could hitch a ride oon a vaccinated and insured donkey

Said vaccinated, insured (see the sticker on license plate?) donkey

We dd have an option for a donkey ride half way, but we declined. [Actually, there is considerable controversy concerning mis-treatment of donkeys who carry cruise-ship passengers (many way too heavy for donkey) fom the cruise-ship terminal up to Fira. Don't ride the donkeys! Walk up yourself or use the cable car!]

Yes ,we do selfies (we didn't have the $800/night for the fancy place behind us)

Michelle contemplating walk (Oia far in the distance)

Near the end: Immervigli looking down to Fira

We had a good dinner on our last night (well, 1 excellent and 1 "ok" dinner) in Santorini.

After 3 nights/2 days, we happily got on a Blue Star ferry leaving Santorini to go Paros (with a brief stop in Naxos). The public bus from Fira to the ports cost us 4.60€ for the two of us (compared to 35€ for driver on our arrival).

Rhodes Town

Panoramic view of Rhodes "New Town  from the Rhodes Town "Acropolis" (which had little else to see)

After our bike trip, we moved on to Rhodes Town. Initially, we booked only 3 nights, but we liked Rhodes Town, and our hotel Rodian Gallery Hotel and Apartments, so much that we ended-up staying 11 nights! (Being off-season, we also got a great rate of 30€ per night for our 1-bedroom apartment with small kitchenette.) Each morning, we enjoyed our coffees, read the news, and made breakfast in our sunny room, then headed out to explore the city, go to the beach, or even to re-explore the island (by bus and rental car). We even did a few hikes.

Elli Beach was 5 minutes walk from our hotel... warm, salty and very clear sea

We had great weather for the whole 11 days (indeed, for all 18 days on Rhodes). Sunny and in the low- to mid-20s (occasionally up to 30°C). Swimming at Elli Beach was close by and beautiful  We are not "lie on the beach" types, so we didn't bother renting lounges and umbrella. Anyways, there was lots of space to put your towel down and then swim, with a beachside shower available. The sea water was so salty, it was easy to just float, and water temperature warm at about 26°C.

First sightseeing was simply of the harbour and the old town. The harbour had a walkway all around it, with many boats offering cruises (several sail boats too). We declined these, preferring to do our own touring (though David was always tempted by the prospect of a sail, pricey as they were...). The old town has a remarkable history, and is great to walk around. It was also still pretty crowded with tourists. (During our 11 days there, we watched the numbers dwindle to very few tourists.)

Entrance to Rhodes Town Mandraki Harbour

Mandraki Harbour, with Rhodes Old Town "Palace of the Grand Master" in the background

Mandraki Harbour

Inside the walls...

The Street of the Knights

Palace of the Grand Master (of the Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem)

For some, the medieval city of Rhodes can be very tiring...

On our second visit into the old town, we decided to get serious and visit the Rhodes Archeological Museum. It is a remarkable museum! Fascinating. Just when you get through displays for one ancient period (e.g., Classical Greece, ~300-31 BCE) of Rhodes, you enter another (Roman period), then another (Byzantine period), then another (the Knights period),  We were exhausted and we thought we were finished... but then we peaked into a garden and found another building: the Ottoman period (1523-1912). Foolishly, we saw another building, and yes, another period: the Minoan period (16th century BCE), then the Mycaenean period (15th century BCE). OK, we were done... NOPE, then came the Neolithic period of Rhodes (now we have totally lost track of time).

We left the museum amazed and exhausted. Happily, there is always beer and wine.... We ate (and drank) well while in Rhodes: there were a couple of excellent (and cheap) restaurants we kept going back to. Staff in one of them became very familiar with us.

Next day, we decided we needed to get out and go for a hike. We took a local bus almost to Lindos, getting off early to go on a hike in the hills behind Lindos. It was a dry, hot walk, with some great views, especially as we came back down towards Lindos with its acropolis in full view.

The beginning...

First a road, then a trail...

Wonder who over the centuries have used this cave... perhaps even a Cyclops?

After the highest point, the views open up

The Lindos acropolis... guarded by a beautiful (but smelly) golden goat

Before reaching Lindos, we had to pass by some grazing goats. Very strong smelling goats! (Goats in Greece seem to exhude much stronger, goatier, smells than those back home!)

By the time we reached Lindos, we were hot, sweaty and tired. We enjoyed drinks and a Greek salad (all the while sneaking bites of our own sandwiches) at a taverna at the entrance to Lindos. Even though the tourist numbers were way less than the week before, we were too tired to do more touring, so we caught the next bus back to Rhodes Town (where a quick swim then showers and beers were waiting).

Next day we stuck to Rhodes Town, touring the Palace of the Grand Masters.

Stathsis, our hotel's manager (owner?) also had a rental car agency (Stathsis Car Rental...) with decent prices. So we rented a small car for two days, with the idea of doing another hike. We had our eye on the Mt. Profitas Ilias hike from Salakos. Our bicycle tour actually suggested we could add this "2-hour hike" to our Day 2 itinerary (yes, the day with the big hills to Embonas). We decided to do it separately.

At the start, going up

A good trail which was thankfully mostly in the shade

At the top of Rhodes' Mt. Profitas Ilias

Former Italian governor's Summer residence, now a hotel, 3/4 up Profitas Ilias (also accessed by a good road)

For those who hike up/down: "Please close the gate"  (for goats)

This was a good hike, especially given it was mostly in the shade. Great views. But we certainly wouldn't have wanted to do it in the midst of Day 2 of our bike tour!

The next day, we did a driving tour, seeing a few places we missed on our bike tour. We visited "Ancient Kamiros", one of the three founding cities of Rhodes, whose "golden period" was around 6th century BC. We also drove by the 16th century Venetian castle ruins at Kritinia, on the way to lunch and wine-buying at Embonas.

Ancient Kamiros

Ancient Kamiros (with huge Rosemary bushes growing everywhere)

16th century Kritinia Venetian castle ruins

October 28th in Greece is "Ohi" (όχι!) day, a national holiday marking when Greece refused permission to the Italians for Axis troops to enter Greece. It was the beginning Greece's participation (and fierce resistance) in World War 2. Every year, there are parades around Greece. Rhodes has a particularly large parade (it seemed every school kid in Rhodes particpated). Many remarkable and beautiful local costumes (from Rhodes and other nearby islands). No clowns or floats as we might have in Canada and all very serious.

Priests begin the festivities (prayers were sung and broadcasted over speakers)

Michelle particularly liked these guys' costume

Some costumes had some pretty fancy headgear

One of many (dozens?) school groups...

More costumes

Our lazy days based in Rhodes Town were winding down (as were many of the restaurants and hotels in the hotel district we were staying in). Our last long walk (not really a hike, but still 2-3 hours) was along the coast on the west side of town, then up to the Rhodes Town acropolis (where, apparently, stood the Temple of Athena and Zeus). It was a beautiful walk along the coast, with many beaches (almost all with the umbrellas and lounges put away for the season). We think we walked past a sewer outfall, briefly getting a strong whiff that was quickly erased by the sell of fresh bread from the small bakery in the building next door. (Note: never saw any actual effluent from the sewer outfall, so perhaps it went far out away from beaches... No, this was nowhere near "our" beach at Elli Beach.)

Then we had a long trudge (well, at least for David) up a hill by road on the way to the acropolis. At the acropolis, we were surprised to find little evidence of the Temple of Athena Polias and Zeus Polieus. A few pillars lying around admidst water tanks and other stuff. Quite surprising. There was also a scaffolded Temple of Apollo under reconstuction. We later learned that the area had been heavily bombarded in the 2nd world war (indeed, artillery was stationed here). Also, we missed a restored stadium. The area is protected 12,500 sq m). Perhaps the future will see more restoration?

Rhodes Town Acropolis: Where is the Temple of Athena and Zeus?

What the acropolis did have was a superb view of Rhodes Town, especially of the northern part of New Town, where we were staying.

View from acropolis: Rhodes New Town (Northern part) and western beaches in background

View without the two tourists...

Although sad to leave Rhodes, we decided it was time. We had several choices where (and how) to go (nearby Kos or Symi, Santorini, etc). After much back and forth, we decided on a 14-hr daytime trip by ferry to Santorini. Kindof like taking a cruise -- we even got a cabin -- it would visit several islands on the way, and arrive not too late (9:30pm) in Santorini. (Our other option was a faster, better Blue Star ferry, but it was mostly at night and didn't arrive Santorini until 2am.) After we booked, we learned our chosen ferry, Anek Lines F/B Prevelis,  was somewhat old and notorius for being late, often very late... our hotel manager Stathis in Rhodes frowned at first when we told him, then said "no probem, it will be an adventure". That's for the next post.

Anek Lines F/B Prevelis (in better days?)