Backpack in Garibaldi Provincial Park (B.C.)

Elfin Lakes, Diamond Head, Garibaldi Provincial Park

No better way to clear our brains from the challenges of our offshore crewing to San Francisco than to slap on the backpacks and head out for a couple of nights into the mountains.

Mt. Garibaldi & The Gargoyles

Mid week in September, the campground and trails were practically empty. A little frost in the night, but not a cold sleep. Very warm during the day.

On the 2nd day, we tried to day hike towards Mamquam Lake, but the trail became dicey, and the bridge over Ring Creek was out and the creek too full to easily cross. So we turned around, and then hiked up to the Saddle, and then up to the Gargoyles, and closer to Mt. Garibaldi. Great views! We went back down to our camp, weary but happy with our hiking.

Really!! -- I made it! (to the Gargoyles)

Clear heads!  Squinting in the bright B.C. sun.

The Elfin campground was in poor shape. But we soon learned from the rangers that this campground will be decommissioned; they are building a beautiful campground next to the lakes (and next to the Elfin Shelter), all with fantastic views. There were several workmen, rangers, and many helicopter sorties, all working on the facilities. We felt better about paying our $20/night camping fees.

Garibaldi Provincial Park (Diamond Head area)

We walked down to our car after 3 days/2 nights. A good backpack. This is good preparation for our coming treks in Nepal in October.

On the walk down -- view down to Squamish and Howe Sound

Back home in Vancouver

We flew back to Vancouver yesterday (Thursday Sept 6). Happy to be home -- happy to be back to Pelagia!

Arrived San Francisco (crewing on SV Sapphire)

We arrived in San Francisco today (Sept 3). Sapphire is staying in San Francisco; our crewing ends here.

The Golden Gate Bridge -- in the Fog

The Bridge -- still in the Fog

We sailed non-stop from Neah Bay (Aug 28) to Drakes Bay (Sept 2).   Approximately 28 miles north of San Francisco, Drakes Bay provided a wonderful, calm anchorage after 5 nights at sea -- a nice place!


 
It was a good trip, sailing wise. We sailed a least 80% of the way; max winds were about 32 knots (NW, from behind) and more often 10-20 kn NW.  We started out, after rounding Cape Flattery, with 20-25 kn SE winds on the nose -- a bit uncomfortable -- but these improved later the next day, eventually coming around to NW. We headed out to about 60 nm offshore, coming in closer around northern California. Interestingly, the biggest winds were definitely off of Cape Mendocino (30-35 kn). Of course, it was foggy coming in under the Golden Gate Bridge.

Not once were we worried for our safety. SV Sapphire is an excellent boat (Cambria 48), and skipper Jay knows his boat well and was conservative, not sailing her too hard, thus making it more comfortable for all of us.

There were three of us crew who came along to help Jay get Sapphire to SF: Brent, Michelle & David. We three crew worked well together and got along -- thanks Brent!  (Perhaps we weren't "railmeat", but we were often made to feel like it.) Queen of the galley, Michelle used her experience (learned from our trip from Hawaii with Jim on SV Berkana) to prepare meals which could be heated-up in one pot and eaten in a bowl. Before leaving Vancouver, Michelle pre-prepared and froze five meals. We were a well-fed crew thanks to Michelle.  

Sapphire is docked at Pier 39 -- an incredibly rolly, noisy berth with seemingly thousands of tourists staring down at you. Not our cup of tea -- we will not make Pier 39 a stop for Pelagia next year!

Michelle and I have moved to the comfort of a hotel -- we fly back home on Thursday.

Although we had previously done a much longer offshore passage (Hawaii to Vancouver in 2004), this trip taught new things, and reinforced things we knew but perhaps had forgot. We've crewed offshore before, but on this trip we gained further insight into how crewing has its ups and downs (especially downs). Advice for future: It is so important before agreeing to crew for all involved to fully understand responsibilities and any limitations (e.g., things you are not allowed to do). What may seem obvious (and normal) is not always the case once you untie the lines. Try and learn these before you sign on. The "crewing" insights were unexpected but definitely helpful for our sail south on Pelagia next year.

Overall, we think we are glad we did this trip. Offshore sailing is not always "fun", but we did re-gain experience and confirmed we are able to take Pelagia on offshore passages. Our crewing on Sapphire to SF this year makes us more confident and competent for next year's voyages (and better "skippers" working/sharing with crew).


UPDATE 2013:  We sailed Pelagia south to Mexico. When we were in San Francisco, we spotted SV Sapphire still moored at Pier 39 (on the other, quieter, side), no one on board, and listed for sale. Go figure.

In Neah Bay, WA (Crewing on SV Sapphire to SF)

Two long motoring days (Day 1 to Port Angeles; Day 2 to Neah Bay) -- at least we had very little bashing up Juan de Fuca Strait.

We are now in Neah Bay, WA. Expecting to leave tomorrow (Tuesday). Forecast calls for 10 kn SE winds with little in the way of seas.

Makah Marina here at Neah Bay has seen better days. (Seems only about 30-50% of the electrical conections work; washrooms need some real cleaning.) But the docks have plenty of room, and it is a calm peaceful place. No complaints.


Reminder:

Sapphire's trip can be followed *live* (AIS tracking) on the web at:

http://www.marinetraffic.com/ais/default.aspx?level0=100
Enter MMSI 338101205 and/or Sapphire.


Note: this only works when our AIS transponder is on (i.e., only when we are underway). Also, we may not show up when we are (i) farther offshore (e.g., 50 nm) and/or (ii) if there are no AIS receivers on shore (as seems the case for the west coast of WA's Olympic Peninsula.

Sailing south to San Francisco -- crewing on SV Sapphire

We are crewing for our friend Jay on his Cambria 48 "Sapphire", Vancouver to San Francisco. Departure planned for this Saturday, August 25th.

SV Sapphire (off of Juan Perez Sound, Haida Gwaii)

We met Jay while sailing/cruising up in Haida Gwaii, last summer (2011).

Sapphire & Pelagia on mooring buoys, Ramsay Island, Haida Gwaii

Sapphire's trip can be followed *live* (AIS tracking) on the web at:

http://www.marinetraffic.com/ais/default.aspx?level0=100
Enter MMSI 338101205 and/or Sapphire.


Hopefully, this will be good experience for our trip next year down to San Francisco. (We'll be back in Vancouver in early September.)

Back home in Vancouver

We had a good sailing trip down from Desolation Sound to Vancouver. Sailed over half the way with winds behind us (with an overnight at Garden Bay, Pender Harbour). Not bad for Summer sailing around here. We had to get back quickly/early due to a death in the family.

After nearly a week back in Vancouver, we took off on Pelagia to clear our heads. This past weekend, we spent 3 nights anchored over at Port Graves (Howe Sound). Thursday night there were only 4 boats (take that, Desolation Sound), and both Thursday and Friday the weather was sunny and the water 22 degrees C. Of course, things filled up by Saturday (perhaps 35 boats -- but there was LOTS more room*).  We finally were successful with our HF SSB radio, checking into the Great Northern Boaters Net (HAM, 3870.0 kHz, LSB, 8 am PDT) three times. Our first amateur radio QSO!

To top it all off, we sailed all the way home from Port Graves to Vancouver -- albeit a somewhat tough wind-on-the nose slog. Shoulders are sore from all the tacking and grinding. (Anyone want to sell a couple of electric winches cheap? No? I didn't think so....)




* Why is it that every new boat coming in has to crowd/jam in with the rest of the boats? The 35-or-so boats were mostly crammed in to the end, leaving the other half of the anchorage essentially empty! Ahh, the "herd mentality"...

When Desolation Sound is no longer "desolate"...

August in Desolation Sound -- it is CROWDED!

57+ boats in Tenedos NW anchorage....

This morning, there were 80 boats in the Tenedos anchorages (57+ in the main nook). About 2/3rds of these were from the USA. Most anchorages down in the Gulf Islands don't get anywhere close to this crowded (except, perhaps, for Montague Harbour and Sidney Spit).

Add to the crowds in the anchorage, the generators, the "let's tow the kids with the dinghy" and/or "how about wakeboarding" and we decided it was time to leave.

Mid-July through August is crazy time in Desolation Sound. With luck, adventure, and creativity, one can find quieter anchorages -- but perhaps it is better to go in June or September.

But the water was warm (Tenedos was 24 degrees C) and the sun was shining!

UPDATE 2015: We finally returned to Desolation Sound in September,  2015.  See our blog post about this (November 20, 2015):