Thursday, 18 October 2012

Back from 6-day "warm-up" trek, heading out now for 14-16 days trek

Sitting down for tea at Chomrong

We had a good "warm-up" trek in the middle hills of Annapurna. A few quite tough days, a couple moderate half-days, and a "rest day". But it was real hot trekking (30 deg C).

We have posted pictures on FLICKR:

We head up to Langtang area tomorrow, planning a 15-day trek Langtang then Gosainkund, then down to Helambu down to the Kathmandu valley. Odd, we've been so many times to Nepal, but never to Langtang.

More later.
David & Michelle

Sunday, 7 October 2012

Escape from Kathmandu (now in Pokhara)

Two nights in noisy smoggy chaotic Kathmandu was too much for us (and to think, it is our 10th time here). The air pollution is just way too much. But is was our neighbour's dog that howled all night that did us in!
We are now in quiet peaceful clean-air Pokhara. Seems like an oasis.
Will likely start trek #1 (a short one first) tomorrow.

Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Heading off today to Kathmandu



We are off to Asia today. One month in Nepal, then 1.5 months in Indonesia and Thailand....

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Dismasted!

A new type of powerboat?
On purpose!

We brought Pelagia up the Fraser River to Steveston to pull the mast. It has been at least 20 years since she has had new rigging, so we figured it was time, especially given our plans to go offshore next year.  (Sorry for the over-dramatic headline....)

A little nerve-wracking at first, but all went well (and easy) thanks to Paul and Gus at Ocean Rigging (plus an experienced & careful crane operator).



About to lift...

Liftoff! The mast is out!



Now, please be gentle...!

And to think, folks back in central and eastern Canada have to do this every year -- yikes!


After this, we motored over to Port Graves/Artaban, and spent a night at anchor. But it just isn't the same without the rig and sails. Normally, even when we motor, we always have the hope of sailing. Not so today. How do powerboaters put up with all that boring engine running? We motored back home to the Rowing Club the next day.

[Of course, there was no wind on the way TO Steveston, when we could have and wanted to sail; but on the way over to Artaban from Steveston, there was a good SE wind, but we had no mast to sail!]

Mastless at Artaban...

We leave soon for a 2+ month trip to Asia -- so we plan to put it all back together in January. New standing rigging; tri-colour/anchor light; spreader lights; trysail track; and a new winch or two.

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

THE OFFSHORE PASSAGE GALLEY – MICHELLE’S THOUGHTS


Having done two passages on two different boats (SV Berkana and SV Sapphire)  -- in which considerable time was spent in the galley --  I’ve learned the importance of a well-laid-out galley to both the mental/physical health and safety of the crew and also the enjoyment of the passage.  There is nothing more nerve-racking than trying to pour a hot (!) cup of coffee as the mug is sliding back and forth on a slippery surface or more irritating than trying to sleep while improperly stored provisions are banging back and forth in cupboards.  Then there is the balancing act of trying to cook when the wind is blowing hard, you are heeled 25 degrees, and the boat is bashing on the waves, and the only thing saving you from taking flight is a well-placed galley belt.  

On my first passage -- 23 days from Hawaii on SV Berkana -- I learned from skipper Jim the importance of safely storing provisions so they wouldn’t tumble out of cupboards or bang incessantly, and to have a map of where the goods are stored so you could easily find them when needed.  I also learned from Barb (skipper Jim’s partner) the importance of meal planning and how to provision for a 20+ day passage (which actually meant buying enough provisions for half more the number of days, or 30+ days).  I found that planning a menu of tasty, hearty meals that could be eaten out of a bowl was the best and often the only way to go given the weather conditions.  If some of these meals could be prepared (and frozen) prior to the passage, this makes life in the galley more trouble-free, especially during the first few days of the trip when you are trying to get your sea legs.  Also, catching two tuna over the course of the passage certainly made the meal planning (seared steaks, chowder, ceviche) significantly easier for me.

Somewhat mistakenly, I came to believe/expect that all boats were like SV Berkana and came with well-appointed safe galleys with non-skid surfaces and safety belts to prevent you from going ass-over-tea-kettle in those rough seas.  So when it came to my second offshore passage – 8 days (5 nights offshore) to San Francisco on SV Sapphire – I was quite surprised to see that not everyone was as fastidious about galley appointment and safety or storage of provisions as Jim had been and had taught me to be. To be fair, although designed as an offshore boat, SV Sapphire is a liveaboard boat and it was only planned to make a “short” offshore passage (the skipper was moving to San Francisco). Part of the issue with galley safety on Sapphire had to do with the galley’s layout. The storage of pots/pans, spices/condiments, etc were located directly above and behind the stove which meant that when cooking you often found yourself having to reach across a hot stove for spices or another pot.  This was extremely precarious at times when the weather was bad.  However, easy things like putting down a simple non-skid surface so that dishes wouldn’t take flight, or the installation of a proper safety belt, would have made my life easier in the galley.  Unfortunately, these were not present, giving us a difficult time with sliding mugs, bowls and pots. Add to this, the various provisions (especially canned goods) and plates etc were stored such that they moved around, making for a considerable racket while crew tried to sleep.

For the San Francisco passage, I took on the responsibility for meal planning, preparation, and making the shopping list of provisions.  I made my galley life significantly easier by preparing five days of frozen dinners – (i) smoked salmon pasta, (ii) beef chilli, (iii) beef stew, (iv) pesto pasta, and (v) a chipotle ground turkey and bean chilli – for the “offshore” portion of the trip.  These meals could be readily thawed and heated up without too much fuss and served along with a salad or freshly baked biscuits (Bisquick is my friend).  Like the other two crew and skipper, I stood my watches but found it tiring given that the end of my watches often coincided with meal preparation so I had less time to rest.

In winding up, here are my few simple tips for those planning a passage (especially, those of you who are responsible for the galley):

  • There should only be one crew member primarily responsible for the galley.  That does not mean that the other crew members cannot assume some galley responsibilities, like cooking.
  • Make sure your provisions are properly stored so they do not shift.  You may want to put down some non-skid in the cupboards to stop tins from moving during the passage.
  • Make a map of where the provisions are stored so you can get to them easily when you need them.
  • Advance meal planning and preparation can significantly reduce your stress level during the passage.
  • Provision for 1 ½ times the number of days of the passage.
  • Plan hearty one-bowl meals than can be cooked and served in all conditions.  You may want to make extra for warming up for lunch the next day.
  • Ensure you have a non-skid surface in the galley to prevent dishes from flying.
  • Ensure you have a well-placed safety belt. 


Some additional comments from David:
  • In addition to non-skid (e.g., Scoot-Guard), it helps if the galley countertops have some method of dividing them into smaller sections. This helps keep cups etc in place.
  • The gimballed stove is your friend (and essential!) -- place pots, cups etc on it while the boat is rockin'. (It helps to have a flat section on the stovetop  -- e.g., a griddle or partial cover -- for cups etc.)
  • Consider stable places for cups/mugs in the cockpit too.
  • Michelle made extra large batches of the pre-frozen meals; the leftovers were left in the pot on the gimballed stove and provided a quick & easy meal (breakfast/lunch) the next day.
  • Pelagia has most of Michelle's suggestions; we are working on the others for next year's passages.

[There are many books providing good advice as to galley arrangements -- for example, books by the Pardey's and Beth Leonard's Voyager's Handbook, among others.]

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Backpack in Garibaldi Provincial Park (B.C.)


Elfin Lakes, Diamond Head, Garibaldi Provincial Park


No better way to clear our brains from the challenges of our offshore crewing to San Francisco than to slap on the backpacks and head out for a couple of nights into the mountains.

Mt. Garibaldi & The Gargoyles
Mid week in September, the campground and trails were practically empty. A little frost in the night, but not a cold sleep. Very warm during the day.

On the 2nd day, we tried to day hike towards Mamquam Lake, but the trail became dicey, and the bridge over Ring Creek was out and the creek too full to easily cross. So we turned around, and then hiked up to the Saddle, and then up to the Gargoyles, and closer to Mt. Garibaldi. Great views! We went back down to our camp, weary but happy with our hiking.


Really!! -- I made it! (to the Gargoyles)




Clear heads!  Squinting in the bright B.C. sun.

The Elfin campground was in poor shape. But we soon learned from the rangers that this campground will be decommissioned; they are building a beautiful campground next to the lakes (and next to the Elfin Shelter), all with fantastic views. There were several workmen, rangers, and many helicopter sorties, all working on the facilities. We felt better about paying our $20/night camping fees.


Garibaldi Provincial Park (Diamond Head area)

We walked down to our car after 3 days/2 nights. A good backpack. This is good preparation for our coming treks in Nepal in October.

On the walk down -- view down to Squamish and Howe Sound


Friday, 7 September 2012

Back home in Vancouver

We flew back to Vancouver yesterday (Thursday Sept 6). Happy to be home -- happy to be back to Pelagia!