Devastating earthquake in Nepal

http://www.nepalmountainnews.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/nepal-earthquake-09.jpg

Saturday April 25th, about noon Nepal time, an earthquake measuring 7.8  in the Lamjung region (between Pokhara & Kathmandu, near the start of the Annapurna Circuit) hit Nepal, with devastating results. This was a major shallow earthquake, with continuing aftershocks, affecting all of Nepal. The death toll is rising and certainly far more than the ~2500 deaths currently indicated. Buildings ancient and new in cities and villages have collapsed everywhere -- leaving untold numbers homeless and injured. In the mountains, avalanches have occurred, sweeping away villages (Dhunche, in the Langtang region) and climbing camps (avalanches at the Everest Base Camp have killed many locals and climbers).  Communications are difficult -- early reports are primarily from the Kathmandu Valley and the Khumbu (Everest) regions -- so it will take time to understand the true scope of the disaster. 

Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world (rated 19th poorest, with per capita annual income of about $750). To us, coming from such wealth in the west, life for so many Nepalese seems so difficult. Yet, we have always felt the Nepalese to be wonderful people who face adversity in their day-to-day lives with remarkable strength and spirit. (That's a major reason we keep returning to Nepal.)  Having been to Nepal 12 times (most recently, 2014), we have long been concerned for the people of Nepal. This earthquake will only make life so much more difficult for the Nepalese.

Nepal needs help. 

Please consider donating to a charity providing disaster relief to Nepal:

CANADA
Canadian Red Cross:
https://secure.redcross.ca/registrant/donate.aspx?eventid=172921

Unicef Canada
https://secure3.unicef.ca/site/Donation2?df_id=3260&3260.donation=form1&s_locale=en_CA&s_src=15DIEM01NPE

Oxfam Canada
https://secure.oxfam.ca/?project=Earthquake%20in%20Nepal

MSF/Doctors without Borders Canada
https://msf.donorportal.ca/MSFEN/Donation/DonationDetails.aspx?L=en-CA&G=21&F=545&T=GENER



USA
American Red Cross
http://www.redcross.org/news/article/Red-Cross-Responding-to-78-Magnitude-Earthquake-in-Nepal

Unicef USA
https://www.unicefusa.org/donate/nepal-earthquake-help-children-now/24226

Oxfam USA
https://secure2.oxfamamerica.org/page/content/nepal_earthquake/


MSF/Doctors without Borders USA
http://www.doctorswithoutborders.org/



UNITED KINGDOM

British Red Cross 
http://www.redcross.org.uk/nepalearthquake


Unicef UK
http://www.unicef.org.uk/landing-pages/Donate-Nepal-Earthquake/

Oxfam UK
https://donate.oxfam.org.uk/emergency/nepal

MSF/Doctors without BordersUK
http://www.msf.org.uk/country-region/nepal-earthquake-emergency-response



Other countries: search for the above in your country

What a drag...

As we noted in an earlier post, "everyone drags anchor sometime".

We have an excellent anchor (25 kg Rocna), all-chain rode, and we are conservative in anchoring by have significant scope usually 5-or-6-to-1. Until recently, we had not dragged with the Rocna.

(But we have dragged with other anchors -- especially CQRs -- in previous years.)

Given that anyone/everyone drags sometime, it is comforting to anchor with a lot of space between boats and/or the shore; at least, when possible.

As we mentioned in our preceding post, the other night we dragged 60 feet during coroumels in Caleta Partida. The winds were no more than 20 kn and the seas negligible, and we had at least 6-to-1 scope. So, it was a surprise -- no, a shock -- that we had dragged. (Later in the night, after we let out extra chain, a neibouring boat, over 200 feet away, shined its spotlight to alert us that we had dragged; david was awake and replied quickly; the other boat told us later that once he knew we were already awake and aware, he slept soundly.)

Anchor watch showing positions relative to anchor: initial, drag, drag+extra chain out

The Vespermarine Watchmate 850 Anchor Watch screen plots the boat position relative to the anchor position every several minutes. What is obvious from the screenshot is that were holding fine, then there was an approximately 20 degree shift in wind position, then a new set on points indicating a new positin 60 feet back and a different angle. Likely, the wind shift pulled the dug-in Rocna out and it took 60 feet to dig-in again. (The screenshot also shows when we let out extra chain.) We did not drag any further.

This dragging is unusual; normally the Rocna resets very quickly with a significant wind change. We will have to chalk this up as being a rare case, and be glad we had lots of space to drag. 

Everyone drags sometime.

(Another) short cruise to the islands...

Sunrise at El Cardonal

 After a week settling into La Paz, we took off for a 5-7 day cruise to Bahia La Paz's islands. What was different this time was cruising with two other boats. Here in Mexico, we meet other boaters in the marina and in anchorages, but have rarely "buddy boated" with friends.

SVs Kylahi, Wylie and Pelagia took off for Playa Bonanza. We tried to sail but winds were too light. Of course, the winds did pick up while we were anchored, but these were mostly light/moderate southwesterly "coroumel" winds, which are fine at Playa Bonanza. (Each afternoon, thermal onshore -- northeasterly -- winds would pick up but they died before dark.)

Socializing on Pelagia

Two nights at Bonanza -- with socializing -- then we decided to move over to the other side, perhaps Caleta Partida, as the winds at Bonanza were getting a little boisterous.

It was Semana Santa/Easter, and Caleta Partida was pretty busy with many anchored boats, so we detoured to El Cardonal, which was empty. We stayed for 3 nights, two which were very quiet and calm, the third was a littly bumpy with a coroumel wind during the night. The "highlight" of El Cardonal on this trip was the hike across the island. We've done this easy walk twice before, with good times. This time, however, we had biting bugs to deal with -- swarms of no-seeums (jejenes) and mosquitos. Later, being driven crazy with itching and scratching, Michelle would count 153 bites on her body (the rest of us received 10 or fewer bites -- Michelle "took the bullet" for the rest of us). She was itchy for days.

El Cardonal: all that green in the desert = BUGS!

El Cardonal: Crossing the island, running away from bugs

Pelagia and Kylahi anchored in El Cardonal

Because the coroumels seemed to be picking up, we moved over to Calata Partida, which has slightly better wave protection. (The other two boats had returned to La Paz.) The anchorage was much less crowded. We anchored in the southern anchorage, with 175' chain in 25 feet of water, and at least 300 feet from the nearest boat. The coroumel really did pick up (20 knots) but there were no significant waves.  Nevertheless, there was a wind shift in the night that must have dislodged our anchor, and I woke up to find we had dragged 60 feet. Our first drag with the Rocna, that kept David up the rest of the on anchor watch.

With David tired and cranky the next morning, we decided to head back to the dock at Marina Palmira, go out for dinner at Bandidos, and have a good sleep.

Of course, the coroumel winds died off for the next several nights.

Return to La Paz

Our last morning home in Whistler,  we got up early for "Fresh Tracks" breakfast. Beautiful, sunny morning with a dusting of fresh powder (6 cm). After breakfast, we made a few nice runs in the little bit of powder,  and then headed down the mountain and caught the bus to Vancouver at 1pm.

Next day,  Westjet got us easily and (relatively) quickly to San Jose del Cabo.  Then the EcoBajaTours shuttle to La Paz. 

Beers, burgers and pizzas sitting overlooking the Malecon at Harker Boards with Lance and Jennifer (SV Kylahi), who had met us at the bus terminal with their car. A beautiful night on the Malecon, busy with Paceños taking their daily exercise. Air temperature up to 30 degrees Celsius.

Pelagia was a little dusty but otherwise in great condition.  Only a light cleaning required.

So different from Whistler. Still,  it is good to be back on the boat.  Hope to get out cruising next week.

(We ship Pelagia home to BC sometime in May.)

Skiing, "pineapple express" rains, and bad colds: Our first month back home in Whistler

Heading over to Whistler on the Peak-to-Peak gondola (March 2, 2015)

We arrived home in January to snow in the valley. Skiing was quite good. Then the torrential rains and warm weather from several "pineapple express" weather systems hit. Temperatures were well above freezing from valley to the top of the mountains -- a lot of snow was lost. Near Vancouver, skiing on the local North Shore mountains all but finished.

After the rains, temperatures stayed well above normal. At Whistler, it was "Spring Skiing" in February. Whistler-Blackcomb did a great job of grooming and kept much of the mountains open for skiing, with skiing from top to bottom.  In Vancouver, the cherry blossoms and daffodils are coming out, and people have been walking around in shorts. (We've been down in Vancouver several times for 2-3-day visits.) * 

No snow on Vancouver's North Shore mountains (Feb 21, 2015)

In the midst of this, we both caught nasty colds (likely from a neighbouring passenger on the flight home): first Michelle, then David. For three of our first four weeks home, one or both of us were suffering.

Creekside: Bottom of Dave Murray Downhill (left). Lower Peak-to-Creek (right), with no snowmaking, is bare.

Blackcomb: Bottom of "Cruiser" (top left) is bare whereas snowmaking has kept "Merlin's" open

Snowmaking further up on Cruiser

Temperatures have now come back down, enabling Whistler-Blackcomb to kick-in their significant snowmaking systems. So, even though we have received little new natural snow since we arrived, the snow, and thus skiing, is getting better. (Unfortunately for the mountain, most people down in Vancouver think there is no snow anywhere for skiing, so the mountain is empty. Aw shucks....)

Lot of snow up high; bare and dry down in the valley (looking down "Springboard" from Rendezvous Lodge)

Heading over to the Blackcomb Glacier (March 3, 2015)

Michelle, with Blackcomb Glacier behind

We are skiing regularly, though mostly on groomed "blue" runs. (Dave Murray Downhill, technically a black diamond run, has also been quite good, as has the Blackcomb glacier.) Normally we prefer skiing black diamond and off-piste runs (and gladed tree skiing), but they are either too icy do not have enough snow.. Still, we are skiing top-to-bottom regularly, having fun, and we're getting lots of sun, fresh air, and exercise.


* For those not familiar with Whistler: Whistler is 115 kilometers and a couple of mountain ranges north of Vancouver. (On a sunny day, the road to Whistler, the "Sea-to-Sky" highway, is a stunningly beautiful 2-hour drive along a fiord and then up into the mountains surrounded by snow-clad peaks. However, on a rainy/snowy day, this "beautiful drive" can turn nasty.) 

Back home for some skiing...

"Hurry up... I'm getting cold standing around while you try to take a photo!"

Left La Paz yesterday (Jan 20th) for a couple months skiing back home in Whistler. Had a good day of easy skiing on Whistler today.

Thought we might feel too cold skiing after our months in Mexico, but -2 deg C felt fine. (It's all about wearing the right clothes.)

Based on the clothes, clearly we're not in Mexico anymore

A New Years trip to "the islands"...

Caleta Partida sunrise

Took off to the islands for New Years. Two nights at Caleta Partida (between Islas Espiratu Santo and Partida): not crowded, but the occasional charter power boats, with their many guests, personal water craft, all-night lights and generators tended to "take over" the anchorage. Their loud fireworks didn't help either. Both nights we had light Coroumel winds and somewhat cloudy skies. (It was pretty smooth/comfortable in Caleta Partida, but boats in Bahia San Gabriel reported a very lumpy uncomfortable night.)

Pelagia at Caleta Partida

Third night we expected a moderate/strong norther to begin so we moved next door to "El Cardoncito" (I. Partida), a small/narrow inlet where northerlies supposedly didn't gust do much. It was a beautiful little anchorage (we were the only boat) with a nice sandy beach (and a Spanish-era well) at its head; however, the northers did indeed gust strongly through (although, with little-to-no seas). As usual, with northers there were sunny, cloudless skies.

El Cardoncito

The well at El Cardoncito (there was water in it, but looked pretty dicey...)

Northers were still forecast, so we sailed south a few miles to Bahia San  Gabriel (I. Espiratu Santo). We normally stay away from "Gabby Bay" unless some north winds are forecast, as this bay gets very lumpy in southwest/west winds (being completely open to winds -- Coroumels -- from this direction). First night, we were treated to an almost still night waves wise, although the northers were blowing 10-15 kn in the bay (enough wind that a charter power catamaran with a local skipper dragged his poorly set/too short scope anchor 100 m to come within 10 m of us until David noticed and caught his attention).

Panoramic view of Bahia San Gabriel (from the beach)

The preceding night was so comfortable, the sunny weather so beautiful, we decided to stay a second day/night at San Gabriel. Bahia San Gabriel has a long, beautiful white sand beach, so we dinghied ashore. There is a good walk over to Playa Bonanza along a flat mostly-open arroyo, requiring about 1 hour in each direction.   Bonanza had two boats anchored and was windier and wilder -- although the anchorage seemed reasonably calm. An even more beautiful beach -- yes, bright, white sand  with clear turquoise water -- than Gabby bay.

Trail to Playa Bonanza (from Bahia San Gabriel)

Playa Bonanza (looking south to San Lorenzo channel)

Collecting shells on Playa Bonanza (anchorage in 15 kn northerlies behind)

Required selfie on white sands of Playa Bonanza

Of course, the tide was way out when we returned to our beached dinghy, so we had a bit of a drag/carry to get to it the water (of course, the dinghy wheels we have just for this purpose were back on Pelagia...). Not too bad, however, as we have a light dinghy and tiny motor.

Of course, later that afternoon the North winds picked up even more, so we had a somewhat more lumpy, bumpy night (albeit, with no worries about our anchor dragging).

Next day, we decided to use the Northers to sail south towards La Paz, perhaps stopping for another night at either Caleta Lobos or Bahia Falsa. To do so, we had to cross the San Lorenzo Channel. The channel is a gap for winds and swells from the Sea of Cortez to come through with greater strength, sometimes accentuated by currents. We debated whether we should stay put... the weather seemed no big deal for Pelagia and crew....

Well, not really a big deal, but for about 1.5 hours while sailing across the channel, we felt like we were in a washing machine, having to hold on tight as we were thrown around by waves coming from multiple directions. (And kinda wished we had stayed put....) Nothing at all dangerous, just uncomfortable (indeed, it would have been better if the wind had been 5-10 kn stronger so that we would have been thrown around less). We were just about to pack it in and head in to the closer Caleta Lobos for the night, when the seas became regular and the sailing comfortable and fun. So we continued on and headed to Bahia Falsa.

Winds were gusting 22 kn as we turned the corner of Pichilingue (the La Paz commercial port and ferries terminal) into the smooth waters of Bahia Falsa, where only 3 other crusing boats were anchored. We had a very quiet, wind/wave free sleep. Next morning, we left at 730am and motored back to our slip at Marina Palmira, arriving at 830am, before the northerlies picked up again.

Full moon rising over Bahia Falsa

Easy to access, beautiful white-sand, clear turquoise water anchorages so close to La Paz were a major reason why we returned to La Paz this Winter.