Summer 2023 cruise completed

 

Summer 2023

We are now back home in Whistler.

Reminder: our anchorage-to-anchorage tracker for our Summer cruise with short commentary is available at:   https://followingsea.net/blog/PELAGIA

We spent ~4 weeks in the Desolation Sound area (lots of swimming and several hikes), and almost 2 weeks in/near the Gulf Islands. Down in the Gulf Islands and Sidney, we were able to get together with family and friends.

We decided not to sail to the North island due to (i) radar stopped working (there is lots of fog up there), (ii) strong opposing winds in Johnstone Strait (when we wanted to go North), and (iii) work commitments back home. 

Not going North this year adds significantly to our intention for a much longer trip North in 2024.

 

 

Trip over... home in Vancouver

Home berth: Vancouver Rowing Club

 

Two nights at Cochrane Islands with SV Carousel. Went for lovely hike to (and swim in) Wednesday lake -- so warm! Winds picked up while eating lunch at the lake. When we arrived back at the boats, Carousel had dragged (unusual for Carousel) perhaps 20m-40m due to winds and rocky bottom; Pelagia hadn't moved. Thunder and lightning (happily not too close) for our last night in Desolation Sound (at Cochrane Islands). 

Had a farewell dinner with Gillian and David, then left early (530am) next morning for Ballet Bay/Pender Harbour area, hoping for a favourable current. We never saw the favourable current and had to motor, but at least it was a pleasant trip. Ballet Bay was too crowded for us, so we headed further south/east, checking out Bargain Bay (Pender Harbour) for the first time. We were pleasantly surprised (not crowded, good anchoring, quiet, even good swimming) -- we'll likely return.

Next day, we decided to head to longtime favourite Port Graves (Gambier Island, Howe Sound) for 1-2 nights. Unfortunately, it was an uncharacteristically windy night (southerly inflow winds, straight into anchorage). Woke up tired next day, and decided to head home to our berth at VRC.

TRIP END: At our berth at Vancouver Rowing Club in Stanley Park. Our summer 2022 trip, total of 1600 nm, is complete. "Best sail trip ever" (Michelle)

Final days in busy Desolation Sound, then back to home berth

Warm Wednesday Lake (Malaspina Peninsula)

Hot and sunny with warm swimming and crowded anchorages; that's the Desolation Sound area in July and August. 

Surprising the anchorages are so crowded, given the lack of USA boats. So many Canadians have been hitting the waters, not all knowing what they are doing. With the ending of border restrictions, it is hard to contemplate just how crowded it will be next Summer (2022)! 

We enjoyed the swimming and the sunny weather, but became tired of the crowds. We especially became sick of those inconsiderate boaters who roared by with large wakes, made noise at night, and had no clue how to anchor. Although small in total numbers, their negative effect was way beyond their numbers.  

We did find a new-to-us anchorage in the Malaspina Inlet area, which we enjoyed so much we stayed 4 nights. It seemed like a newborn nursery, with many mother seals and their pups, and an eagles nest with eaglets. Small anchorage thus only a few (3-4) boats, with nearby hiking. Best not to advertise its location....

Eventually, we decided it was time to head home. An easy decision made after nights in Cortes Bay with RVYC boats continually roaring by (some far too close) with no concern for those anchored, and an especially obnoxious powerboater (definitely not RVYC) blasting his music late at night. As we left Cortes Bay, we motored slowly past him and told him we didn't appreciate his late-night music tastes, and that loud music late at night was not very considerate of others. He gave us the finger....   [Although we haven't done so, we often wonder if such boats should be named, perhaps on some "Boaters' Wall of Shame" website....] Yes, time for us to head home.

Managed a little downwind sailing down Malaspina Strait, and spent 2 nights in Ballet Bay. Surprised at how busy even Ballet Bay has now become; due to poor charting of Ballet Bay and especially its entry, most boaters in the past seemed to go to nearby Hardy Island Marine Park (formerly Musket Island MP). Now both are busy. Still, we had some nice kayaking and swimming in the area.

Heading down, we again managed some downwind sailing once past Merry Island, but it was frustrating as the seas in Georgia Strait were large and confused. Eventually, the seas overwhelmed the light winds, and we started the motor. We headed into Plumper Cove Marine Park for our last night, pleased to find several buoys available. Unfortunately, it was a noisy place, with Pelagia rolling to constant boat wakes until dark, and continuing to roll overnight due to swells from the strong NW winds out in the Strait. Should have gone on to Artaban. Next time....

Left early to get to our VRC berth with a high-enough tide. Very rolly, confused seas from Point Atkinson almost to First Narrows -- made worse by an ebbing tide against incoming swells. Made it  difficult to see the many logs, and we managed to hit one just before the bridge. It rolled along the hull, down the keel, then popped out behind us, thankfully missing the propeller and rudder.  Loud noises but, fortunately, no damage (David dived on keel to check when back in our VRC berth).

All-in-all, an excellent 2-month cruise. The Broughtons were great (especially near Cape Caution); cruising with friends on SVs Carousel and Chanter a joy. Desolation crowded but relaxing (well, mostly). A little disappointing that we didn't go above Cape Caution (due to Covid-19 restrictions by central coast First Nations), but not enough to take away from the good cruising. But, next year....

Summer 2021 numbers:

Total distance cruised: 746 nm

Engine hours:  130 hrs

Distance sailed: 66 nm

Sailing home... summer cruise completed

Closehauled, sailing past Howe Sound (smoggy Vancouver in the distance)

We ended-up spending another 10 days in the Desolation Sound area. Enjoying sunny, warm/hot weather and good swimming in the ocean (19-24°C). But it was now definitely crowded; perhaps about 2/3 to 3/4 as busy as a normal summer crowd (no USA boats), but still crowded. We enjoyed more socializing with SV Chanter's Wayne and Lee, as well as with Roly from MV Tropic Isle. Still, we decided we'd hung out enough, and it was now time to leave the crowds and get home to Whistler.

 

Seagulls physically distancing... (these logs are why we try not to sail in the dark in BC)

We had a long but smooth motor down to Pender Harbour. Normally, we stay at the VRC outstation, but it was full (as we said, places are now crowded). Instead of anchoring in Garden Bay, with its many other anchored boats, we decided to anchor in uncrowded Gerrans Bay. Big mistake! Until darkness came, we were continuously rocked by wakes of boats roaring by, including personal watercraft (non affectionately referred to by some, us included, as "sea lice") roaring around towing people. Pender Harbour is easily the most obnoxious anchorage we've ever been to (although Tofino ranks up there): no one gives a second thought to their wakes. 

We headed home with a 5-15 knot Southeasterly predicted. We hoped we might get a sail home, albeit an upwind closehauled sail. As it turned out, we sailed 21 nm, about half the distance, with the winds mostly SE 12-15 kn, closehauled with a reef in the main. Seas also built, especially when against the tide. Lots of green water over the deck. A fun raucous sail home! 

We arrived to our home berth at the Vancouver Rowing Club in Stanley Park near low tide, with only 1-2 feet under our keel. A tight fit with no space for a wide turn (too shallow, but at least all mud), we were lucky this day and came in slowly with no incident. It was hot at the docks. Later, we had a couple family members over for a fun reunion dinner of barbecued burgers.

Next day, while Michelle packed up Pelagia, David caught the Epic Rides bus up to Whistler to get our car and then drove back down to the boat. We arrived home to (busy!) Whistler by dinner time.

An interesting cruise; 760 nm overall.  Much good (socializing within our bubble with Chanter and Carousel, plus Roly; new anchorages; much wildlife; near-empty anchorages in June and in the Broughtons) but some not so good (very so-so weather with rain in June and early July; windlass motor, etc).

 

Back down to Desolation Sound area...

Huaskin Lake... easily accessed from Turnbull Cove

Weather in the Broughtons improved somewhat (it's all relative... highs were never more than 15°C), so we kept exploring, including Joe Cove (new to us, as was Monday Anchorage), Waddington Bay, Cullen Harbour, and Turnbull Cove. Sadly, our cruising buddies Gillian and David on SV Carousel decided to head back south after Waddington Bay (our social "bubble" burst, decreasing to 4).

Turnbull was new to us. An excellent anchorage (and not crowded this year), its cold water was chocolate brown from nearby streams. But it held a treat: a 10-minute hike uphill brings one to Huaskin Lake, with a convenient dock and ladder for swimming. Surprisingly, the water temperature was quite comfortable for a swim. We also enjoyed socializing with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter (part of our original 6-person social "bubble").

Turnbull Cove was technically the furthest north we would go this year, but we did venture further west to Blunden Harbour. Blunden is a favourite, but this time we got to endure 12 hours of winds, gusting to 27 knots. Fortunately, there was plenty of space and good holding (mud), so we didn't budge. Still, never "fun".

We then headed across to Port McNeill to reprovision, opting to stay 2 nights to be more relaxed. Besides, Port McNeill deserves it, being so welcoming during these COVID-19 times (in contrast with Sointula, which we normally prefer, but we skipped this year as they are not being so "open" to visiting boaters).

After McNeill, we headed back into the Broughtons, staying a night behind Dead Point, which had too many commercial crab traps (far too common an issue in the area) but was nice and quiet (we were solo). Then we rejoined Chanter in Port Harvey, with a plan to head down Johnstone Strait in the early morning.

After our slow trip bucking the flood tide coming up Johnstone 3 weeks earlier, we were worried going in the morning when the ebb was in play would again be a problem. It wasn't. We had a great sail down Johnstone Strait, then Sunderland Channel. We temporarily anchored for lunch (KD time on Pelagia) waiting for Whirlpool Rapids to quiet down, then sailed again up Chancellor Channel, all the way to Greene Point rapids (where we reached 11 knots going with the flood). Altogether, we sailed half the distance. A good day, with our hydrovane Finn doing a great job.

A night anchored in Cordero Islands (and dinner with Chanter), then we headed through the Yaculta Rapids (surprisingly devoid of usual many gin palaces... well, there was one) and down to the Desolation Sound area, to Hathayim/Von Donop Inlet.

Here in Von Donop, the weather has been hot (30°C) and the water warm (20°C) for swimming. Although far busier than the Broughtons (or Von Donop last month) , the 34 boats total on  our first night back are far less than the usual 50-60 boats of normal years. (Indeed, yesterday and today, the numbers have dropped to 15-20 boats.)

We expect to be home no later than August 7-10th. Until then? Plans are flexible.

Rhodes Town

Panoramic view of Rhodes "New Town  from the Rhodes Town "Acropolis" (which had little else to see)

After our bike trip, we moved on to Rhodes Town. Initially, we booked only 3 nights, but we liked Rhodes Town, and our hotel Rodian Gallery Hotel and Apartments, so much that we ended-up staying 11 nights! (Being off-season, we also got a great rate of 30€ per night for our 1-bedroom apartment with small kitchenette.) Each morning, we enjoyed our coffees, read the news, and made breakfast in our sunny room, then headed out to explore the city, go to the beach, or even to re-explore the island (by bus and rental car). We even did a few hikes.

Elli Beach was 5 minutes walk from our hotel... warm, salty and very clear sea

We had great weather for the whole 11 days (indeed, for all 18 days on Rhodes). Sunny and in the low- to mid-20s (occasionally up to 30°C). Swimming at Elli Beach was close by and beautiful  We are not "lie on the beach" types, so we didn't bother renting lounges and umbrella. Anyways, there was lots of space to put your towel down and then swim, with a beachside shower available. The sea water was so salty, it was easy to just float, and water temperature warm at about 26°C.

First sightseeing was simply of the harbour and the old town. The harbour had a walkway all around it, with many boats offering cruises (several sail boats too). We declined these, preferring to do our own touring (though David was always tempted by the prospect of a sail, pricey as they were...). The old town has a remarkable history, and is great to walk around. It was also still pretty crowded with tourists. (During our 11 days there, we watched the numbers dwindle to very few tourists.)

Entrance to Rhodes Town Mandraki Harbour

Mandraki Harbour, with Rhodes Old Town "Palace of the Grand Master" in the background

Mandraki Harbour

Inside the walls...

The Street of the Knights

Palace of the Grand Master (of the Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem)

For some, the medieval city of Rhodes can be very tiring...

On our second visit into the old town, we decided to get serious and visit the Rhodes Archeological Museum. It is a remarkable museum! Fascinating. Just when you get through displays for one ancient period (e.g., Classical Greece, ~300-31 BCE) of Rhodes, you enter another (Roman period), then another (Byzantine period), then another (the Knights period),  We were exhausted and we thought we were finished... but then we peaked into a garden and found another building: the Ottoman period (1523-1912). Foolishly, we saw another building, and yes, another period: the Minoan period (16th century BCE), then the Mycaenean period (15th century BCE). OK, we were done... NOPE, then came the Neolithic period of Rhodes (now we have totally lost track of time).

We left the museum amazed and exhausted. Happily, there is always beer and wine.... We ate (and drank) well while in Rhodes: there were a couple of excellent (and cheap) restaurants we kept going back to. Staff in one of them became very familiar with us.

Next day, we decided we needed to get out and go for a hike. We took a local bus almost to Lindos, getting off early to go on a hike in the hills behind Lindos. It was a dry, hot walk, with some great views, especially as we came back down towards Lindos with its acropolis in full view.

The beginning...

First a road, then a trail...

Wonder who over the centuries have used this cave... perhaps even a Cyclops?

After the highest point, the views open up

The Lindos acropolis... guarded by a beautiful (but smelly) golden goat

Before reaching Lindos, we had to pass by some grazing goats. Very strong smelling goats! (Goats in Greece seem to exhude much stronger, goatier, smells than those back home!)

By the time we reached Lindos, we were hot, sweaty and tired. We enjoyed drinks and a Greek salad (all the while sneaking bites of our own sandwiches) at a taverna at the entrance to Lindos. Even though the tourist numbers were way less than the week before, we were too tired to do more touring, so we caught the next bus back to Rhodes Town (where a quick swim then showers and beers were waiting).

Next day we stuck to Rhodes Town, touring the Palace of the Grand Masters.

Stathsis, our hotel's manager (owner?) also had a rental car agency (Stathsis Car Rental...) with decent prices. So we rented a small car for two days, with the idea of doing another hike. We had our eye on the Mt. Profitas Ilias hike from Salakos. Our bicycle tour actually suggested we could add this "2-hour hike" to our Day 2 itinerary (yes, the day with the big hills to Embonas). We decided to do it separately.

At the start, going up

A good trail which was thankfully mostly in the shade

At the top of Rhodes' Mt. Profitas Ilias

Former Italian governor's Summer residence, now a hotel, 3/4 up Profitas Ilias (also accessed by a good road)

For those who hike up/down: "Please close the gate"  (for goats)

This was a good hike, especially given it was mostly in the shade. Great views. But we certainly wouldn't have wanted to do it in the midst of Day 2 of our bike tour!

The next day, we did a driving tour, seeing a few places we missed on our bike tour. We visited "Ancient Kamiros", one of the three founding cities of Rhodes, whose "golden period" was around 6th century BC. We also drove by the 16th century Venetian castle ruins at Kritinia, on the way to lunch and wine-buying at Embonas.

Ancient Kamiros

Ancient Kamiros (with huge Rosemary bushes growing everywhere)

16th century Kritinia Venetian castle ruins

October 28th in Greece is "Ohi" (όχι!) day, a national holiday marking when Greece refused permission to the Italians for Axis troops to enter Greece. It was the beginning Greece's participation (and fierce resistance) in World War 2. Every year, there are parades around Greece. Rhodes has a particularly large parade (it seemed every school kid in Rhodes particpated). Many remarkable and beautiful local costumes (from Rhodes and other nearby islands). No clowns or floats as we might have in Canada and all very serious.

Priests begin the festivities (prayers were sung and broadcasted over speakers)

Michelle particularly liked these guys' costume

Some costumes had some pretty fancy headgear

One of many (dozens?) school groups...

More costumes

Our lazy days based in Rhodes Town were winding down (as were many of the restaurants and hotels in the hotel district we were staying in). Our last long walk (not really a hike, but still 2-3 hours) was along the coast on the west side of town, then up to the Rhodes Town acropolis (where, apparently, stood the Temple of Athena and Zeus). It was a beautiful walk along the coast, with many beaches (almost all with the umbrellas and lounges put away for the season). We think we walked past a sewer outfall, briefly getting a strong whiff that was quickly erased by the sell of fresh bread from the small bakery in the building next door. (Note: never saw any actual effluent from the sewer outfall, so perhaps it went far out away from beaches... No, this was nowhere near "our" beach at Elli Beach.)

Then we had a long trudge (well, at least for David) up a hill by road on the way to the acropolis. At the acropolis, we were surprised to find little evidence of the Temple of Athena Polias and Zeus Polieus. A few pillars lying around admidst water tanks and other stuff. Quite surprising. There was also a scaffolded Temple of Apollo under reconstuction. We later learned that the area had been heavily bombarded in the 2nd world war (indeed, artillery was stationed here). Also, we missed a restored stadium. The area is protected 12,500 sq m). Perhaps the future will see more restoration?

Rhodes Town Acropolis: Where is the Temple of Athena and Zeus?

What the acropolis did have was a superb view of Rhodes Town, especially of the northern part of New Town, where we were staying.

View from acropolis: Rhodes New Town (Northern part) and western beaches in background

View without the two tourists...

Although sad to leave Rhodes, we decided it was time. We had several choices where (and how) to go (nearby Kos or Symi, Santorini, etc). After much back and forth, we decided on a 14-hr daytime trip by ferry to Santorini. Kindof like taking a cruise -- we even got a cabin -- it would visit several islands on the way, and arrive not too late (9:30pm) in Santorini. (Our other option was a faster, better Blue Star ferry, but it was mostly at night and didn't arrive Santorini until 2am.) After we booked, we learned our chosen ferry, Anek Lines F/B Prevelis,  was somewhat old and notorius for being late, often very late... our hotel manager Stathis in Rhodes frowned at first when we told him, then said "no probem, it will be an adventure". That's for the next post.

Anek Lines F/B Prevelis (in better days?)

In Desolation...

Michelle kayaking in Prideaux Haven (Desolation Sound)

Pelagia's Summer cruise has begun. We are now in the Desolation Sound area for 4-6 days. Days are sunny and warm (mid 20s) and anchorages empty... wonderful!

Water (ocean) temperatures up to 20.5 degrees C -- warm enough for us to swim.

Looking like big Westerlies in Johnstone Strait (reaching gale force) are due to switch to SE on the weekend. Likely we'll aim for then.

A week in the islands... B.C.'s Gulf Islands

Finally got away for a week in our "islands", the Gulf Islands (as opposed to the islands in the Bahia de la Paz).

Beautiful weather, although not much wind. We did not sail until the final day, when we crossed Georgia Strait back to Vancouver.

First night at Clam Bay, after a calm motor across to Porlier Pass. Up to 20-30 boats anchored. Going to have to get used to more-crowded anchorages here (compared to the Sea of Cortez). But, it was a glassy calm, quiet night.

Next, we tried a new-to-us anchorage over at Prevost Island: Selby Cove. A small cove which we expected to fit only 2-3 boats, ended up with 5 boats. Not exactly "crowded", but more than we expected. As Selby Cove adjoins land that is part of the Gulf Islands National Park, there were good trails on shore. Again, another windless, calm evening. We liked this place.

Anchored in Selby Cove

Pelagia in Selby Cove

Next stop, Winter Cove on Saturna Island. Last time we were here was in August 2013, for the Bluewater Cruising Association "Farewell to the Fleet" Rendezvous. With over 50 boats anchored in 2013 (but only three of us leaving for offshore), it was very crowded.

This year, the cove had about 25 boats anchored. Certainly not a "wilderness" feeling. Still, it was very pleasant, and we stayed two nights. Nevertheless, another windless, calm and quiet night. We could get used to this:in the Sea of Cortez, we don't think we ever had 4 windless nights in a row.

What was a "little" harder to get used to was the 16 degree Celsius water temperature. It was sunny and hot outside so we braved a swim. SO COLD! (Sure, but refreshing....)

Seals on Minx Reef at entrance to Winter Cove -- guess they don't find the water so cold.

Boat Passage (on the flood) from Winter Cove, looking out to the Georgia Strait and Mt. Baker -- beautiful!

Next night, we motored over to Port Browning, after filling up one fuel tank at the Saturna Point fuel dock (with, as we found out later, some of the highest fuel prices on the BC coast!) -- first time since Mazatlan.

The plan, on visiting Port Browning, was to visit Bob and Dee Dee (from SV Sunshine) who live on Pender Island. The visit with them was fun. Port Browning turned out to be a party anchorage and filled-up to the brim with boats. Still, people were pretty respectful and any noise ended at a reasonable time. Again, another calm night.

Crowded but calm Port Browning

Radar image of Port Browning anchorage -- crowded!

Final night was back at Clam Bay. Crowded (30-40 boats is crowded to us; certainly more than the Sea of Cortez and more than we used to see in Clam Bay) but no problems anchoring, as again we had no wind in the anchorage overnight. Tried swimming at 17.5 degrees Celsius -- must becoming acclimatized as it didn't feel too bad.

Next morning, we caught the 6 am slack at Porlier Pass, and had a wild sail with approx. 20 knot NW winds (a mostly beam reach), arriving Pt Grey (entrance to English Bay, Vancouver) 3.25 hours later.

Our first real sailing trip since getting Pelagia home, we were impressed by our (i) protected anchorages and beautiful scenery (so green and varied), (ii) quiet windless nights, (iii) crowded anchorages, and (iv) much colder water.

Our Christmas in La Paz (2014)

Although we miss being with friends and family back home for Christmas (it would have been especially nice in the snow at Whistler), we managed to fill up our time here in La Paz Christmas eve and Christmas day.

Christmas eve started with a "white elephant" gift exchange for about 20 of us, mostly from dock 3 here at Marina Palmira. Rather fun with some "interesting" gifts. This was followed by caroling, which was when, in our tradition, Michelle and I slipped away to Pelagia. For good reason, as Michelle had prepared and excellent short-rib stew for dinner for five of us.

Christmas morning was sunny and the north winds had stopped, making for a rather warm potluck breakfast on dock 3. After breakfast, Michelle and I took off on our bikes for a swim at El Coroumel. Sea temperature was a comfortable 23 deg C.

El Coroumel beach

The creature from the turquoise lagoon emerges...

After swimming, we went for a short hike up to the cross on the hill behind the marina.

Marina Palmira and La Paz beyond

Christmas day ended with a very good turkey dinner at the "Dinghy Dock" restaurant, followed by a Flor de Cana nightcap in Pelagia's cockpit.

A short trip to the islands (of Bahia de la Paz)

After a week or so in La Paz, we were hankering to get out and anchor in the islands of Bahia de La Paz.

Pelagia in El Mezteno

El Mezteno

The first two nights, we anchored in El Mezteno, a small indentation on Isla Espiritu Santo. The cove has a beautiful sandy beach with a small pond behind. There was water in the pond with hundreds of small fish providing a yummy treat to a heron.

Heron fishing at El Mezteno

El Mezteno (Pelagia on left)

 
Water temperature was 25 degrees C, so swimming was great.  We were the only boat on the first night (2 boats on 2nd night)

We then moved next door to Caleta Partida -- again, only a few boats anchored.

Looking East into Caleta Partida

However, a power boat anchored nearby insisted on running his generator 24 hours/day as well as lighting up the ocean with its blue underwater lights -- so after one night, we decided to move over to Ensenada Grande (Isla Partida).

Pelagia anchored in the North Cove of Ensenada Grande (behind catamaran Ascension)

 As before, the anchorages were pretty empty -- seems most of the boats have "headed south" (Puerto Vallarta, Barra de Navidad, etc).

Next day, on the way back down, we saw many humpback whales, including one that breeched only about 30-40 meters from Pelagia -- that was a "WOW!" moment!

Humpback "spying" near Caleta Partida

We decided to spend one more evening in the islands, anchoring in "Ensenada de la Raza" (Isla Espiritu Santo), an inlet that feels like you are anchoring at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. With a little imagination, one can see many faces (of the Raza?) in the cliffs.

We were the only boat.

Dropping the anchor in Ensenada de la Raza

See the face?

On our last evening of this 6-night trip, we anchored in Caleta Lobos on the Baja peninsula, making it a short 2-hour trip into Marina Palmira.