Over-Crowded Desolation (July/August 2025)

 

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Refuge Cove: Boats motoring around waiting to get fuel or groceries

Summer 2025 on Pelagia

Pelagia's 2025 route (Southern portions): RED = sailing

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Pelagia's 2025 route (Northern portions): RED = sailing

We got away by mid June, and enjoyed (mostly) 7 weeks cruising on Pelagia. 

Approximately 4 weeks were spent in the Broughtons, with not quite 2 weeks in Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area. The Broughtons were not at all crowded (though busier than past) and the daytime temperatures comfortable (14-17 degrees C). Desolation Sound by late July/early August was crazy over-crowded, made worse by being too hot. 

Typical weather in the Broughtons

As we've suggested before, spending much time in Desolation Sound in July and August isn't worth it ... just too crowded. Too many boaters with many not exactly being considerate of others.

One thing we noticed: a significant percentage of USA boats were not flying their USA flag. Perhaps embarassed? A small percentage flew neither their USA flag nor a Canadian "courtesy" flag. Who did they think they were fooling? (Perhaps they were just "unaware" of normal, accepted practice.) As far as we could tell, USA boats were treated well here in Canada, just like any other boats.    

In total, our trip to/from the Broughtons was 626 nautical miles, of which we sailed 164 nm (about 26%, not terrible). And we did have some great sails: down Johnstone Strait with winds from behind reaching 30 kn at Fanny Island; all the way up Malaspina Strait for out longest sail (37 nm).

 

We anchored out 37 nights and stayed 11 nights at docks (as usual, our favourite was/is Sointula, which we visited 2x). We anchored in 4 new-to-us anchorages (2 of them twice because we liked them so much).

It might have been cooler and more comfortable up in the Broughtons (though certainly not sunbathing or ocean swimming weather), but we really only had 3 days of true rain. Fog and drizzle, however, were regular. 

We had a couple weeks cruising with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, up to Sointula. Sadly, they had to leave us, and we missed them.  

Chanter (left) and Pelagia (right) sailing across Queen Charlotte Strait

 

 

Last morning with Chanter: saying goodbye

 

Unfortunately, we had to cut short our trip due to some persistent muscle/tendon aches and pains that needed attending by a physio and doctor back home. These problems made long walks, hiking or kayaking difficult. 

We hope to get better clarity on the aches and pains and to be able to go back out on Pelagia late August or more likely September. And by then the Summer crowds will have substantially decreased.

 [Photos to come.]  

 

Made it to the Broughtons!

Canada Day in Sointula

Four relaxing days/nights at the dock in Sointula.

Pelagia sailing across to Cullen Harbour (July 2)

 

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And we're off! (Summer 2025)

After weeks of plumbing repairs 😢 on Pelagia by David, we're finally off.

Headed up to Pender Harbour yesterday (Monday), even getting a nice sail for almost half the way.

Today we are headed up Malaspina Strait with 10-20 kn winds behind... great easy sailing! Hope to get to Desolation Sound today.

 

[Update: Indeed, we had a great sail from Cape Cockburn (pronounced "coburn") to Cortes Island.]  

Current plans are 6 (maybe 7-8) weeks on the boat, going at least as far as Sointula and the Broughtons.

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Springtime sail

Anchored in Pirates Cove

Spring has definitely returned to southwestern British Columbia!

We got away for a 4-night/5-day cruise to and from the Gulf Islands over the Easter weekend. Mostly sunny weather. We started out with 2 nights on a mooring buoy in Montague Harbour, 1 night anchored in Clam Bay, and finally 1 night anchored in Pirates Cove. (It has been years since we last anchored in Pirates Cove, as it is usually overcrowded and notorious for anchor dragging. But is was nearly empty and calm this Easter.)

Finished off with a good sail fully across Georgia Strait after transiting Gabriola Passage.

 
At end of the sailing, off Stanley Park, starting the engine we found no water pumping out. We quickly dropped anchor and David troubleshooted things, including pulling the raw water pump impeller (which was OK). Putting it all back together, all was working fine. We think the bouncy sail produced an air lock in the raw water circuit, something we've never seen on Pelagia. We arrived back at home berth, perhaps 2 hours late.

A very nice weekend (despite the drama at the end).

Easter 2025 cruise: motor (blue) and sail (green)

 

 

Another short cruise: Gulf Islands

Pelagia anchored in Princess Cove (Wallace Island)

A last-minute decision -- made 10am in Squamish -- we had a short weather window (4-5 days), so we headed out on Pelagia. Made it across Georgia Strait (motoring, no wind) to Dogfish Bay (Kendrick Island) just as it was getting dark. It was quite cool outside (approx. 7 deg C), but our hydronic heating kept us warm (turned off while sleeping!).

Next morning, we motored in the sun through Gabriola Passage then down to Wallace Island, anchoring alone (free swinging) in Princess Bay (a major benefit of cruising in the Fall... Mid-May through mid-September, Princess Cove would be packed with stern-tied boats, and free-swinging "discouraged").

Went for the usual hike to Chivers Point (approximately 2 hrs return). Later in the afternoon, we fired-up our Dickinson heater (first time since the williwaws in Anna Inlet, in 2022) -- this kept the main cabin even toastier than the hydronic furnace (both systems provide hot water for showers, etc). Not needed under the covers in our v-berth.

Wallace Island had some particularly large mushrooms!

On the dinghy heading back to Pelagia

 

We had hoped to meet up with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, but with such short notice, they were already booked. Maybe next time.

Weather forecast was for really nasty winds (and rain) and combined with timing of slack current in the passes, we decided to cross back across Georgia Strait a day earlier. Rather than going back to our berth at the Vancouver Rowing Club, however, we decided to spend a night at the VRC outstation dock at Snug Cove (Bowen Island). The trip across was mostly a motor, but we did get a nice gentle sail for 5nm.

Next morning, we headed back to our VRC berth and then drove home to Squamish. The bad weather started that night (winds up to 40kn, plus rain).

A nice trip, but far too short!

Our route (approximately 88 nm)