Mohare Danda: A beautiful trek... still no match for a Nepali cold virus

Views of Dhauligiri and Nilgiri (from Danda Kharka, Day 5)

Start of trek (Galeswor)

The Annapurna Dhaulagiri Community Eco-Trek (Mohare Danda)

The first 4-5 days of the trek were wonderful.

Starting at low elevation, we walked up (many, many steps) through trees laden with ripe oranges. The first lodge was a real pleasant surprise (as good or better than most we've been to in past treks). There were very few other trekkers (indeed, we only saw a total of 12 other trekkers the first 5 days). Temperatures were warm. Rhododendron trees were beginning to bloom.

Orange groves, Day 1

Rhododendrons beginning to bloom (Day 2)

Next day was harder, but views made it worth it, and the small villages interesting. The third day was a tougher climb, up to Mohare Dande at 3300m. The last 2 hours of the trek were slogging through snow, sometimes postholing thigh deep. But the views spectacular.

Day 3: Uphill slog in the snow (Michelle & Rajendra)

Panoramic view from Mohare Danda

The community lodge at Mohare Dande is situated right at the top. One can admire the views from the dining room. And there were only 10 of us trekkers -- contrast this to similar views at nearby Pun Hill where there are often 300-500 trekkers, who had to climb up for 45 minutes in the dark to get a sunrise view.

Mohare Danda Community lodge

Selfie at Mohare Danda

Mohare sleeping rooms: piles of snow outside!

Warm by the fire at Mohare Danda (Michelle & Rajendra by stove)

The 4th morning, David is feeling a chest cold coming on. Our plan was an easy 2-hour walk down to the community lodge at Danda Kharka. Hope was, an afternoon rest would help (as it usually does). The snow on the other side was even deeper so it was a bit of a tough slog for 2.25 hours down. Even more postholing. But at least it was sunny.

Day 4: On the way down from Mohare Danda to Danda Kharka: lots of snow!

Arriving at Danda Kharka, we did some laundry and then rested. We came to the decision it was unlikely we would proceed even higher to Khopra Danda (3,660m), given how much snow we had already been dealing with.

That night was a terrible night for David, as his chest cold (bronchitis) worsened. Next day, we headed out with fantastic views of Dhaulagiri as we walked, through huge rhododendron forests. Would be beautiful in March in full bloom! David a bit slow with breathing difficulties, but the planned day was only a 3-4 hour walk. We headed over to Chitre to a lodge we've stayed at in the past (2002, 2007). We'd decide next day where to go.

An even more difficult night for David (lots of coughing) with little sleep. So, we decided on a full rest day. Always good to be flexible!

The second night at Chitre, after a full rest day, was even worse, with almost no sleep. We both came to the decision simultaneously that we (David) needed to get back to Pokhara to recover ASAP. We let Rajendra, our porter-guide, know. The question was: go down 1200m for 4-5 hours to the Jomsom-Beni road at Tatopani and try to work out transport (usually tricky and pricy from here, and longer), or do we go up 470m to Ghorepani and then down 840m to Ulleri, for a total of 5-6 hrs, where we should be able to hire a jeep to Pokhara. David wasn't sure he had the lungs to make it up to Ghorepani; but no one wanted to deal with transport problems of Tatopani. So we went up.

Day 7: On the way up to Ghorepani -- can he make it?

As it went, it wasn't so terrible for David. His lungs felt like crossing a 5400m pass (even though we were only going up to 2830m; just gotta keep putting one foot ahead of the other. Going down after Ghorepani was much "easier".

Reaching Ulleri (Day 7), there were many jeeps waiting. A sort of "jeep mafia" exists and we had to bargain hard, us knowing all the time we had to agree in order to get to Pokhara that night. Initial price was 8500 rupees (~C$100) we ended with 6500 rupees.

Day 7: Arriving at Ulleri (porter-guide Rajendra with pack) -- jeeps waiting below

After a very rough jeep ride (aren't they all in Nepal?), we made it back to our guesthouse in Pokhara ("The Mountain House") just as it was getting dark. Lodge owners Stan and Indira were ready for us; it was a relief to get back. Recovery has been slow but steady; on the 5th night back, finally a full night's sleep without coughing!

As it turned out, weather turned significantly colder with rain and much snow up high. Had we stuck to our planned route, we would have encountered substantial new snow and wet walking. We were glad to be in Pokhara!

This was a beautiful trek. A bit like trekking back in the 90s. We could see us returning to see other parts (Khopra Ridge)... sans the cold virus.

We are off to Kathmandu tomorrow (by "Super VIP" bus), then 6 days in 30-35°C Thailand before returning home. 

 

A few extra photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PhP7aJhyRvPjJavi6