Wednesday 3 July 2019

Last morning in Ontario


Michelle at Niagara Falls... finally

We decided last minute to detour so that Michelle could see Niagara Falls. This also allowed us to visit friends in Toronto (and a brief visit to Toronto).

Kingston was a quick 1-night stop. We drove around and in the evening, walked around and went out for dinner. Home of the Tragically Hip, Michelle seemed most interested in the many (!) prisons in the region with "Kingston Penitentiary"... the Pen being of most interest (where a tour works out to over $40/person... crazy).

Kingston renamed a street after their beloved 'Hip

At the suggestion of friends T&N, after leaving Kingston we headed to Prince Edward County (via the Glenora Ferry) and visited a couple wineries. Then it was on to the madness of the 401 (highway) in rush hour. People who think traffic in Vancouver is bad have no idea! 16 lanes, with our side bumper-to-bumper at a crawl speed. Can't see how (or why) someone could/would put up with this on a regular basis. Not us, that's for sure.

We stayed with friends (and mentors and colleagues) T & N in their North York (now amalgamated into Greater Toronto) house... a 2-day stay that was like an oasis in the middle of our hotels, motels, eating out and driving (Thank you N & T... you were too good to us!).

We had a bit of adventure (with Toronto's TTC... their transit system) and a good day in downtown Toronto. Surprisingly, our visit to Ripley's Aquarium was the highlight. Quite the amazing experience (though one wonders if they cram too many fish into small spaces). The many types of rays were impressive (and interesting to touch).

Sharks!
Rays!
Next, we headed early morning to get to Niagara Falls before the crowds (it was Canada Day weekend). Busy traffic (to us) but flowing fast. Arriving Niagara, we scored a free parking spot 10 minutes walk from the falls (most visitors who drive there pay $20 or $25 to park closer). The Falls are indeed spectacular: 1/5th of the world's fresh water pours over these falls.

Niagara Falls

More Niagara, as the crowds begin to grow

Too bad the Falls area has been turned into a Disneyland-like theme park (however, unvisted by most, are many kilometres of trails in parks). The crowds started really filling in, so we made our exit.

However, we had to make a stop to see Brock's monument at the site of the Battle of Queenston Heights. Sir Isaac Brock was Commander of British (and allied) troops in Lower Canada (now Québec) then Upper Canada (now Ontario) before and at the start of the War of 1812 with the USA.  He is known for his cunning in capturing Detroit. Brock was killed while leading his troops trying to retake Queenston Heights, a battle that ended with the Americans suffering a severe defeat. Brock, the "Hero of Upper Canada" was originally buried in nearby Fort George (with funeral attended by more than 500 persons!). A monument was built in his honour at Queebston Heights, and his remains buried there. The original monument was damaged by a bomb. A new monument, tge current one, was built and, in 1853, Brock was reinterred.

Brock's Monument, Queenston Heights

We were taken aback at the height of Brock's Monunent. A sign of Brock 's importance, this monument, at 56 m (185 ft) , is even taller than Nelson's column at Trafalgar Square. We climbed the narrow claustrophobic stairway to the top, to be disappointed by the restricted views. Nevertheless, we were very impressed.

Not much a view from the top.
Also at Queenston Heights was a monument to Laura Secord, whose house was nearby. Sadly, neither of these sites were busy (which was good for us); Canadian history seems little match for the nearby "attractions" of Niagara Falls.

We left Niagara Falls to stay a night in Kitchener. Next day we headed north, but with a stop in Kleinburg at the McMichael Gallery. Canada's Group of Seven are normally well represented here. However, there were several special exhibitions so fewer were on display. The exhibits of Maud Lewis paintings and Inuit artist Itee Pootoogook were excellent, as were Louie Palu's sometimes disturbing, sometimes curious photographs of the military in the arctic.

After Kleinburg, we hit the road north. But we were slowed by bumper-to-bumper traffic all the way until Barrie (really? on a Sunday?!). We made it to Sudbury for the night.

Next night, Canada Day, was spent in a cabin on Catfish Lake, just north of Wawa. Too bad there were so many biting flies.

This morning finds us at a lovely motel on the shores of a lake in Ignace, Ontario. Lots of wind last night -- take that, flies! -- so we were able to barbecue and eat outside by the lake.

Today we drive into Manitoba.

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