Desolation Sound 2020: Canadian boats only!

Laura Cove in mid-June: Amazingly empty!

Desolation Sound in the summer is normally a very crowded affair. It is not uncommon to find 50-80 boats in each anchorage. For us, some anchorages are simply "no go" places in the Summer, such as Prideaux Haven (many large motor yachts -- "gin palaces" -- among 50-80 other boats) or Laura Cove (stern-tied boats packed together like sardines). 

Typically, 70-80% of the boats in Desolation in the Summer are boats from the USA. Like many Canadian boaters, we admit too often being upset to have so many American boats taking up most of the anchor spaces, leaving little space for us, and certainly no feeling of "wilderness" or privacy. We have often wished there was some way to limit the number of American boats in order to give some priority, some access, to local boats. (Don't get me wrong: there is nothing inherently wrong with our neighbours visiting from the south, it is just that there are SO MANY of them!) 

Well, it turns out there is a way...

Unfortunately, it took a pandemic to clear out the anchorages. Especially with the COVID-19 pandemic so out-of-control in many USA states, the Canada-USA border has been closed to non-essential travel (since early April) and will stay closed until at least July 21st (after which the closure could again be extended). 

We've spent the past 2 weeks enjoying our cruising of the Desolation Sound area. Anchorages have been remarkably quiet and empty: perhaps about 10% of the usual number of boats. (For example, here in Von Donop Inlet, there are currently only 5 boats, when normally, in mid-late June, there would be 30+ boats.) There are also fewer Canadian boats than usual, but these are now starting to increase in numbers as restrictions in BC ease. 1

We are spending extra time here in Desolation Sound, as it not likely we'll ever get to see Desolation so uncrowded (in the summer) again. I'm sorry for the American boaters wishing to come north to experience our wilderness (we are in regular communication on HAM radio with some American boaters, regular summer visitors to B.C. waters, who seem shocked and very unhappy to be excluded from Canadian waters, as if somehow we have trampled on their "rights"). 

These are remarkable times, and the differences between our two countries have never been more evident. It might not be until the Fall (or even next year), but hopefully the situation south (and  north) of the USA-Canada border will significantly improve, and the border will reopen and we will once again welcome our southern neighbours. 

Until then, we will enjoy our uncrowded B.C. waters with other fellow Canadian boaters. 

1. We hear that anchorages down in Washington State are also/currently very uncrowded, so it's a good time for Washington boaters to explore their home waters.