Tuesday 9 August 2022

Sointula to Desolation Sound

Anchored in Handfield Bay (SV Carousel)

After 3 lovely days relaxing in Sointula, we did the short hop over to Port McNeill for 1 night for provisions and fuel.


Next day, we had a calm motor down 1/3rd of Johnstone Strait to Port Harvey. Lots of room to anchor, despite a USA boat who decided it was OK to put down several crab traps right in anchorage. D wasn't so polite in telling him off about it.

Next day we headed back in Johnstone and had a good (sometimes exciting) sail all the way to Forward Harbour (passing Fanny Island when it was reporting 30+ knots of NW wind) -- glad we were going downwind.

That night we made contact on HAM radio with cruising friends David and Gillian on SV Carousel, agreeing to meet up in the Cordero Islands, only 16 nm away. Next morning, we had another nice (but calmer) sail in Chancellor Channel, transited flooding (5 kn current) Greene Point Rapids, and anchored beside Carousel. We were back cruising with friends again. It was a bit windy overnight, but all was well.

Next day we headed over to Handfield Bay (Thurston Marine Park) for a couple nights. The first night was pretty windy, making sleep difficult, but our anchors were well dug in (as we found later when we tried to bring them up). The next day was sunny and calm, and we did some kayaking (even seeing a bear on the beach). All around Pelagia and Carousel, salmon were jumping, but fishing wasn't allowed. We all hoped one jump into a dinghy, but no such luck.

Next day was drizzly and foggy. We headed out to transit the "Yacultas" rapids, a series of 3 sets of rapids (Dent, Gillard, Yaculta) that can be dangerous if transited at the wrong time (10+ kn currents, whirlpools, etc including the scarily named "Devil's Hole" at Dent). We arrived at/near slack (the right time) but the whole transit was in thick "pea soup" fog -- less than 1/4-mile visibility. With lots of boats converging (both directions) at the same time (some with huge wakes showing zero consideration of others), it was a stressful 1-2 hours. But we came out fine, and headed onwards to our favourite swimming/hiking hole in Ha'Thayim (Von Donop) Marine Park at the top of Cortes Island.

We were back in the Desolation Sound area. Warm seas, hot temperatures, and many, many boats. (Squirrel Cove, close by, was reported to have of 70 anchored boats; Von Donop is 3-4 times larger but had less than half that of Squirrel). Quite the change from 2 months of empty (sometimes lonely) anchorages up north. We weren't lonely though, as we shared dinners for 3 of 4 nights in Von Donop with Carousel.

After 4 nights, we all headed over to Heriot Bay/Drew Harbour, where we setup a dinner with HAM friends Erik and Leona (Erik is net control for the eveni g "West Coast Boaters' Net"). A fun dinner was had at the HBI (Heriot Bay Inn), although its menu was less than inspiring.

A nice sail the next morning around the bottom of Cortes Island (Carousel won...), then motoring up to a surprisingly uncrowded Cortes Bay (not counting the busy docks of the 2 yacht clubs outstations).

Next morning, a short trip over to the Cochrane Islands in Malaspina Inlet. Likely our last anchorage in Desolation Sound area (and last with friends on SV Carousel) before we head south for Vancouver.

Of course, first we have to wait for some rain and southeast winds to pass us by.

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