Sailing Pelagia: March-April 2023: Trek in the lower Everest region...

Above Namche Bazar (Kongde behind)

Mid-March 2023, we took off for an "18-20-day" trek in the lower Everest region in Nepal. We trekked through this area 3 times before. This time, there would be no set goals. That's fortunate, because the odds were against us achieving lofty goals....

March 14 and 15, 2023: Back in crazy Kathmandu (first time since March 2019)

The more things change, the more they stay the same! All new (and better) immigration process at arrival at airport, but then huge bottleneck and classic Nepal melee as everyone has to have the have their baggage screened. Before even getting to baggage pickup.

Met by friend/guide Dorjee at airport. All then went smoothly. Well, almost Kathmandu was pretty warm, dusty and VERY smoggy, but our hotel room AC only put out heat. 1st world problems. We took off to packed/crazy Thamel (which was all dug up for new electric (?) lines) . Upon return after dinner, hotel folks waiting for us, saying we have to move rooms. New room smaller but AC works.

Tomorrow (Mar 16th) we head out for long drive to lower Everest region for trek.

March 16th: 10-hour jeep ride; now in Phaplu (Trek Day 1)

The jeep ride to the lower Everest region (Solu Khumbu) was everything we expected, and more. Excruciatingly long (10 hrs), twisty and often very bumpy. Added to this were the 1000-meter drop-offs, with little-or-no road shoulders. Lots of passing. Scary. The sights and vistas, however, interesting and often spectacular. (If it wasn't so tiring....)

Lunch stop on jeep trip

But we are safely in a trekking lodge in Phaplu, having just eaten an excellent "dal bhat" set (lentils, rice plus vegetable curry etc) at the "Hotel Phaplu". Phaplu not so exciting. Oh, and there is thunder and rain outside.

We start walking tomorrow... we shall see.

March 17, 2023: 4 hrs walking to Ringmo (Trek Day 2)

Rained much of the night, until 8am when it stopped.

Our porter "Phuri" meets us in the morning. A local guy, he is young, quiet but seems very nice. He is fast (so we call him "Fast and Phurious...").

Very nice walking with beautiful scenery. Rhododendrons in bloom. Dorjee's niece lived not too far away, so we stopped for tea at her house. Very pleasant.

Walking between Paphlu and Ringmo (on the road but very nice)

Visiting with Dorjee's niece (Dorjee, Phuri in foreground)

David finding the walking very tiring (2700+ meters altitude doesn't help either). Out-of-shape, jetlagged, high(er) altitude... you name it, that's his excuse(s). Michelle, on the other hand, had no problems (she's in much better shape).

Although only a "half-day" on our usual/previous trekking speeds, after lunch in Ringmo, we decided to stay in the lodge ("Sunshine Lodge") where we had lunch. Good thing, as 30 minutes later heavy rains began.

The view next morning from the Sunshine Lodge (Ringmo)

March 18, 2023: A long hard day. Trekked from Ringmo to Juving (Trek Day 3)

Our muscles ache....

Ringmo up over Traksindo Pass (not too bad) where we had tea, then down to Nunthala. Nice weather but the trail not as good as previous years. Lunch at usual lodge (Shangrila) in Nunthala.

After Nunthala, the trail became rougher. Lots of loose rocks, making us unsteady. Why? Because locals are more often now using road transport and letting the walking trail deteriorate. WAY worse trail than in 1998, 2008 and 2011.

Plan was to stop in Juving. Unfortunately, several lodges (of course, the first ones we came across) were closed due to some local event. So only one lodge open ("Jubing Guest House"). It wasn't great.

Dinner was a terrible Dal Bhat. David wouldn't eat it. Michelle did... not a great idea as she was to find out.

Too tired (both of us) to write much.

Michelle, on the way up to Traksindo La (look up high)

Dorjee taking in the view from Traksindo La

Coming into Nunthala

Water buffalo

Michelle and Dorjee on suspension bridge over Dudh Kosi: lowest point of trek (note bridge for road under construction)

March 19, 2023: rough night; half day walk to Bupsa (Trek Day 4)

Last night's dinner (which David barely ate) turned out not to agree with Michelle, and she had a bad night with it. (Unusual, as dal bhat is usually the safest choice, and usually good). So a shorter day today. David happier. Made it to Bupsa, staying in the same good lodge as 2011 ("Kangde View").

Leaving the Juving lodge (NOT recommended) in the morning... Michelle recovering

A much better lodge (in Bupsa)

March 20, 2023: Rough, muddy wet tiring day to Paiya (Trek Day 5)

Was supposed to be easy half day from Bupsa to Paiya. All went well until we came to the end of road construction (which was active, with blasting). The transition to the trail required crossing a dangerous gully with loose rocks and, if one slipped, a drop of hundreds of meters. Others were doing it but we said "today is not a good day to die". So we walked back 30 minutes, and took a small trail UP to the higher Khare La pass. Here was a frontier-like encampment for staging of goods onto donkeys (and noodle lunch for us). We then took an incredibly muddy (deep mud, mixed with donkey sh$t) down to the original trail. At least one muddy fall was included (David). To top it off, it was pouring rain. We arrived Paiya an extra 2-3 hours later, wet and muddy. Beehive Guest House. Pouring rain. Our worst trekking day ever.

Not an "easy half day"....

Beautiful countryside Kharikhola, Bupse, and Khare La (before the bad trail)

Walking in the fog to the end of the road...

At the end of road, a very dangerous transition

Danger... a slip means a 500+m fall...

End of the road dangerous transition...

Beginning of our 2-3 hour detour (up further...)

Very wet at the Beehive Lodge

March 21, 2023: Another wet, muddy trekking day... to Surket (Trek Day 6)

Torrential rain all night in Paiya. In the morning, we though we'd have a forced "rest day" due to the rain. But the sun came out, so we got a later start (9:30'ish am).

After Paiya, before the rains return... (that's what we mean by rough, rocky trail)

Trail was fine til lunch (though rocky). At lunch, the first drops of rain began. Then the heavy rain, while we negotiated steep downhill on wet muddy slippery rocks, waiting often to give way donkey trains. We counted over 200 donkeys, and we lost 45-60 minutes letting them pass by... in the pouring rain.

We were relieved to reach a good lodge in Surket ("Everest Trekkers Inn", where we last stayed in 2011), with a warm wood stove furnace to help dry our stuff. And a good shower!

"Rest(ful) Day" tomorrow... hopefully.

March 22, 2023: Easy/short walk ... to Cheplung (Trek Day 7)

Donkeys in Surket... and sun!

Joined the main (and busy) trail Lukla to Namche. Suddenly a good trail, with little or no mud. And SO FAR no rain today. (It indeed rained later ... after 5pm)

Excellent lunch at Khumbila Lodge in Cheplung. Decided to make it a short, nice day. "Hilltop Lodge" looked nice.

March 23, 2023: Sunny day! Trekked to Monjo (Trek Day 8)

Not a great night last night. Our room was certainly fine/comfortable (though a bit cold), but... rooms were downstairs and a big group upstairs was very noisy in the dining room. Eventually quieted down after 10pm. (Probably should have stayed in the Khumbila Lodge, with its great food....

Finally, a lovely trail...

Monjo (Mt. Kailash Lodge)

Decided to make it a short day and to set us up for the big climb up the "Namche Hill". Walked to Monjo, where we had a great room with a ensuite bathroom/shower ("Mt. Kailash Lodge"). Such luxury.

Finally a day without rain! And sun! (which burns skin quickly at 2700m). As usual for us old guys, we walked only about half the distance that we did on our 3-4 previous trips to here. The joys of aging!

Tomorrow we head up the steep hill to Namche Bazaar.

March 24, 2023:The hike up the big hill to Namche Bazaar (Trek Day 9)

Starting from approximately 2740m in Jorsale, and going up to 3440m in Namche, the 700m climb can be a real bear, especially for those not acclimatized to these altitudes (which includes most trekkers, who fly in the day before to Lukla). We've done this climb several times before and have had good days and bad days (including one real struggle in 2005). Because we have been slower and more tired (especially David) on this current trek, we were really worried today would be a struggle.

It wasn't! Somewhat tiring yes, but we had a good walkup today with no problems. The difficult trekking of the preceding week must have gotten us in better shape!

Looking down towards Jorsale/Benkar

Arriving Namche Bazar

March 25, 2023: NAMCHE REST DAY (Trek Day 10)

Most people use this day to do an "acclimatization" hike to nearby places, such as The Everest View Hotel, Khumjung village, etc. However, because we planned to go to Khumjung tomorrow, and we were not planning to go really high, we decided to have a real rest day.

[In case you are wondering, this is David's 5th time in Namche and Michelle's 4th time.]

Our biggest adventure was pizza and brownie at the Everest Bakery (1900 NRPs!)


Our hotel in Namche

All kinds of pedestrians in Namche...

Later in the afternoon, Dorjee began discussing with us "alternative" ideas for the coming days. We were not too excited about walking back through the terrible mud and donkey sh$t nor the dangerous trail portion. Moreover, we wanted to get to Junbesi and possibly up Pikey Peak. So Dorjee had secretly arranged the possibility of us catching a ride on a helicopter.

When we passed by Traksindo on the trek up, we saw helicopters ferrying loads from there (where trucks could drive to) up to the upper Everest region. As it turned out, Dorjee's neighbour in Kathmandu was a major player in a trekking/climbing agency and a helicopter company, and this company was ferrying loads for an Everest climbing expedition from Traksindo to Shyanboche, just above Namche Bazar. Each time, it would return empty to Traksindo.

Dorjee arranged for the four of us (Michelle, David, Dorjee and Phuri the porter) to fly from Shyangboche to Traksindo for the very low cost of US$300 total. We agreed.

Only "problem" was we had to leave tomorrow.

March 26, 2023: Shyangboche... our highest point (and helicopter takeoff) (Trek Day 11)

Looking down at Namche, on our walk up to Shyangboche

Michelle meeting real Yaks (Shyangboche)

We walked up through Namche and then up steeply on the zig-zag trail to the Shyangboche airstrip (now unused, except for helicopters): Our highest walking altitude (3750m) and helicopter take off point....

Nepal, March 26, 2023: Surprise! We're back down in Ringmo! (Trek Day 11)

During this trek, we've kept plans very flexible. We woke up yesterday in Namche Bazaar with the plan to move on to nearby Khumjung. We had already decided no really high altitudes, and thus were going to visit a few nearby villages, and then head back down the trail which had been so nasty on the way up. We weren't really looking forward to that.

ALSO, we were disappointed we would miss a return a favourite of ours, Junbesi, nor ascend for our first time 4065m "Pikey Peak (above Junbesi and Phaplu). Bad trails (!), bad weather, and being older and slower seemed to rule these out.

But then Dorjee our guide found an opportunity to get a ride on a helicopter shuttling cargo for Traksindo (just above Ringmo) to Shyangboche (just above Namche). It was doing many of these trips, returning empty each time to Traksindo. So, for a ridiculously low fee for the 4 of us, we hiked up to Shyangboche (tiring at 3600+m) and had an exciting 10-15 minute flight back down above the trails, heights, and villages we had trekked through on the way up.

An exciting flight with great views! (Indeed, a highlight of our trek!)

Looking towards Lukla (from helicopter)

After landing at Traksindo

So here we are, back in the "Sunshine Lodge" (simple but friendly and good food) in Ringmo. Much warmer and more available oxygen. Tomorrow we head to Junbesi for 2 nights.

Relaxing back at the Sunshine Lodge with the cats (Ringmo)

March 27, 2023: Nicest walk of the trek: Ringmo to Junbesi (Trek Day 12)

Today's walk took us 300m up then along steep grassy slopes, with cows grazing and beautiful views down the valleys (which were far below us). The trail was excellent, allowing us to look around while we walked.

Looking down towards Phaplu

View towards Lamjura La

The walk from Ringmo to Junbesi was wonderful

Animal encounters on way to Junbesi

Junbesi is a favourite of ours. We'd heard it suffered substantial damage in the 2015 earthquake, but today it seemed all rebuilt (and improved). One of the trekking books we use (McGuiness EVEREST-Trailblazer) wrote that our usual lodge "Ang Chopka's" had been destroyed and its "Sir Edmund Hillary bedroom" gone. Not so! We are currently lying in bed in the beautiful Ed Hillary bedroom, his photo watching over us. The lodge had indeed suffered damage and made significant repairs and improvements (including attached bathroom and shower for each room -- truly a luxury when trekking). All rooms are varnished wood. A beautiful lodge!

Junbesi

Ang Chokpa's Inn

Sir Edmund Hilary Room

We will stay another day here in luxury, doing a day hike up to the sprawling Thubten Choling monastery ... Michelle wants to see those "ferocious" Tibetan mastiffs again.

After Junbesi, our plans are uncertain; we may start the climb up (walk up) to Pikey Peak, but snow up there may change our minds.

March 28, 2023: "Rest Day" in Junbesi ... day hike to Thubten Choling (Trek Day 13)

We had a very nice walk up to the Thubten Choling monastery, where we felt very welcome and were able to witness daily routines, including perhaps 100 nuns chanting. A very pleasant visit.

Arriving at Thubten Choling Monastery

Thubten Choling Monastery

Oddly, there were no Tibetan mastiffs to be found on this visit.

In the evening, we are both feeling like we are getting colds, especially David

March 29, 2023: Extra rest day in Junbesi (Trek Day 14)

We have both been slowed down by colds, and as usual for David, this has led to bronchitis. Though we had planned to start hiking up (1000m) today, David woke up feeling lousy so we are taking a true "rest day", with the hope tomorrow David will be on the mend. Our lodge (Ang Chopka's) and room here in Junbesi is the best of our trek, so the perfect place to rest up. (Free WiFi, charging, and in-room toilet/shower is also a bonus.)

March 30, 2023: Decided to head back down to Phaplu (Trek Day 15)

Another night coughing due to bronchitis (though feeling fine). Forecast tomorrow is for rain (snow up high). Decided 16 days on trek "aint so bad" and is enough, so we left our great lodge in Junbesi to head down to Phaplu.

On the way down to Phaplu

Arriving Phaplu (Everest Hotel on left)

Decided to try the pricier (!) "Everest Hotel" in Paphlu. Twice the price of Junbesi but not even 1/4 as good. Oh well, the food is good.

Tomorrow we'll do the long jeep ride to Kathmandu.

Nepal, March 31, 2023: Return to Kathmandu by jeep (Trek Day 16)

Such a long jeep ride: 11 hours! Lots of rain for the last few hours.

Checked in to "Fairfield by Marriott" hotel. Not as good as our normal hotel (but 2-3x the price)... our usual hotel next door ("Oasis") was full... it is getting busy in Nepal. Sadly the air pollution in Kathmandu remains terrible -- not good for David's bronchitis.

Got word that it was a blizzard today up at Pikey Peak, so we're glad not to be up there.

So trek is over. 16 days away from Kathmandu; 11.5 days with actual trekking/walking. An interesting, challenging trek. Some terrible walking days but many good. Took time to get in shape (at least, for David). Quite a variety. Not the usual "fixed" itinerary others do. Eye opening in terms of how we're slower than previously. The bronchitis was the bad part.

Our trek route

End-of-trek lunch with Dorjee's family

End-of-trek dinner with Dorjee and Choti... THANK YOU!

POSTSCRIPT:

We stayed 4 nights in Kathmandu after the trek. the air pollution was bad and David's bronchitis didn't improve. Still, we managed to enjoy lunch with Dorjee and his family at their house near Kopan, as well as a farewell dinner in Thamel.

Dorjee, as usual, was a great guide and friend on this trek. We look forward to our next trip with him. [Dorjee's small trekking agency is: Lets Go Himalaya Adventure, https://www.letsgohimalaya.com.np/new/, EMAIL: letsgonepal.nd@gmail.com ]

If only bronchitis wouldn't show up....

After Kathmandu, we headed to Thailand to Hua Hin on the coast a few hours south of Bangkok, our regular "post-trek recovery" location. Quite unusual, however, there was also bad air pollution in Hua Hin, which didn't help David's bronchitis. We had some good meals, but most of the 10 days in Hua Hin was spent inside our lovely hotel room, trying to get rid of his bronchitis. It took a week at home in Whistler to recover.