Monday, 22 September 2025

Last sail of the Summer (2025): 2 weeks in the Gulf Islands

 

Pelagia anchored at Russell Island

One last getaway this Summer: two weeks in the Gulf Islands. Lots of visiting friends and family, a new-to-us anchorage, and some places we haven't visited for a long time.

 

September 2025 route (red = sailing)

ITINERARY
Night 1: Kendrick Island (A)
Night 2: Clam Bay (A)
Night 3: Maple Bay Yacht Club (D)
Night 4: Russell Island (A*)
Night 5: Deep Cove (A)
Night 6: Tod Inlet (A)
Night 7: Ganges VRC dock (D)
Night 8: Montague Hbr  (B)
Nights 9 & 10: Winter Cove (A)
Nights 11 & 12: Otter Bay VRC dock (D)
Night 13: Clam Bay (A)
Night 14: Vancouver home berth  

First a nice, gentle sail across the strait to Kendrick Island/Dogfish Bay (becoming a favourite). Empty at first (1 other boat), but quickly 6-7 other boats came in after us (including 1 local boat that insisted on anchoring on top of our anchor... re-anchoring, they still seemed to need to be awfully close). Hey, it isn't supposed to be crowded in mid September!

Next day, a motor through Gabriola Passage (2-3 kn ebb) then a no-wind motor down to Clam Bay. Again, it became busy (although, not "crowded"). D takes a dinghy ride through the Cut and buys a peach pie at the Howling Wolf Farm shop while a white horse hopes for food. 


Nothing for me? (Actually, D bought an apple for him, but he disappeared.)

Next morning (another sunny day), we see a boat having trouble getting its anchor up. The middle portion of the Clam Bay anchorage seems to have many reports of a fouled bottom. (We mark the location along with other boats' past issues. An area to avoid!) 

Next day (Day 3), we have a dinner-on-Pelagia with a longtime sail and work friend who we haven't seen since pre-Covid times! We moor at the Maple Bay Yacht Club reciprocal dock.  A good get together. 

Following day, we head to new-to-us Russell Island, following a reconnoitre of the anchorage in Deep Cove near D's sister's house. She had warned me that there were now many mooring buoys. All empty. Turns out, an owner in  Deep Cove who doesn't even own a boat to be moored has put several buoys in. Really screwing up the anchorage and REALLY INCONSIDERATE (looking at you Ripley!). We decide we can still anchor next day, but much farther out and deeper than we used to. We continue on to Russell.

Deep Cove: Filled with unused private mooring buoys. Not nice!

Russell Island's anchorage was glassy calm but busier that we expected. Still, we find a spot for the night and go for a nice walk (and picked a few heritage apples). The bottom is a bit rocky so holding a bit so-so, and the anchorage somewhat open. Would not want to be here when the winds are blowing. Still, a quiet night.

Russell Island anchorage (Pelagia is 2nd boat from left)

Next day, back to buoy-filled Deep Cove. A long row to shore ('cause we anchored far out in 60 feet) but we had a very nice evening with family. Haven't anchored here since pre-Covid.

Next day was Tod Inlet (near Butchart Gardens). Maybe 13+ years since we've been here. The anchorage was very busy -- almost Desolation-Sound-crowded (OK, not quite... apparently it does get overcrowded in July-August). Nevertheless, we find a good spot. We then meet ex-cruiser buddies (formerly of SV Carousel) Gillian and David out at the road, and go out for lunch and then a walk around Brentwood Bay.

Time to get a few food items etc*, so next day we head over to Ganges on Saltspring Island and get lucky finding a spot on the VRC outstation dock.  (*we could easily have shopped near Brentwood Bay.)

We found Ganges too busy and the marina not-so-welcoming, so we decided to stay just 1 night. Next day we were going to go to Winter Cove, but southerly winds made it a bit bouncy, so we headed in to Montague Harbour. There were lots of buoys available (indeed a couple remained all night -- finally, the crowds seemed to be dwindling). 

Next day, it was calm and we motored down to Winter Cove. Only a few boats so lots of room for anchoring. Sunny and calm, we went for a walk and went kayaking. So nice, we stayed 2 nights.

Boat Passage, Winter Cove

Required selfie: At Winter Point (Saturna Is) with mainland mountains behind

 

We have another (our last) get together the next day over on North Pender Island. Space was available at the VRC dock (both spaces!) at Otter Bay Marina. Later, we are picked up by cruising buddies Wayne and Lee (of SV Chanter) and we have an enjoyable dinner with them at their home (during which, we get to see Wayne's fantastic trains).

Wayne among his trains (which are impressive)

Next day called for big NW winds in the Strait of Georgia (25-30 kt) and likely some in the islands. We decided to stay put on the dock at Otter Bay. Woke up to ashes all over the boat (from forest fires on the Olympic Peninsula, not Mt. St. Helens); D surreptitiously did a quick rinse off ("no boat washing" allowed... though later many other did more thorough washes). Sunny and warm, we even went for a swim in one of the marina's two pools.

Next day, the winds were down to 10-12 kn so we headed up to Clam Bay, to get ready for a morning transit of Porlier Pass and hopefully a sail across the strait (and hopefully not too strong winds). A quiet night in Clam Bay, with fewer boats than previous time.

Our last day, we indeed had a good sail back across Georgia Strait from outside of Porlier Pass: started out NW 17kt but very soon decreased to about 12-13 kt. An easy sail, although heeled-over for awhile at the start. Winds died at the Pt. Grey bell buoy.



An excellent 2-week cruise in the Gulf Islands, fun catching up with friends and family. Mostly motoring but bookended with good sailing on the first and last days.

 

 

Friday, 19 September 2025

A new stove for Pelagia

In its box, ready to install

 

Our old Force 10 stove was about 40 years old. It had served its two owners very well. Lately, the burners were burning yellow and sometimes poofing (?) out. Michelle suggested she wanted a new stove for her birthday. David worried about the cost (well over C$3000) but started looking, daunted by the thought of the money and all the work required. 

 

Old dependable no more...
It was the propane sniffer (rather, multiple sniffers) that quickly made up out mind. Suddenly, we had 3 different sniffers telling us there was a leak. So, time for a new stove.    

We looked into both Force 10 and Dickinson stoves. A review on YouTube thankfully made it clear the Dickinson wouldn't work for us: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRuda57AHk4

D read and re-read the Force 10 literature, and finally got help re sizes directly from folks at Force 10 (here in British Columbia). The North American Standard size would fit (both 3- and 4-burner models were identical sizes) our stove space. They were now 2-3 cm taller, but still would fit. 

The 4-burner was C$1000 pricier, was not in stock so might entail a substantial shipping charge, and would require about 4 weeks for delivery.  (In the 17 years we've had Pelagia, we've never used all 3 burners on our old stove.) The 3-burner Force 10 was in stock at Steveston Marine, and I could pick it up in 2 days. No delivery charge. The price was not cheap (~C$3700 with taxes)... we could buy 2-4 stoves at Home Depot for home for that price. Yeah, it's a boat, so special boat prices. 

I had some help from neighbours on the docks at VRC lifting the stove into the boat (Thank you Jonathon and Greg!). After some minor modifications, the stove fit beautifully and gimballed back-and-forth perfectly. And it is very shiny.

AND! No more propane sniffer alarm! 


The shiny new Force 10 3-burner installed

 

Video: gimballed stove heating up kettle while we sail across Strait of Georgia

Wednesday, 13 August 2025

Over-Crowded Desolation (July/August 2025)

 

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Refuge Cove: Boats motoring around waiting to get fuel or groceries

Seriously overcrowded in the main anchorages (spilling over to crowd the "alternate" anchorages). Majority of boats are from the USA. Not everybody is respectful of others. 
 
We value uncrowded, wilderness-like anchorages. You won't find this in Desolation Sound area in July-August! That's why we go much farther north (even if the weather and waters are colder). 

Monday, 4 August 2025

Summer 2025 on Pelagia


Pelagia's 2025 route (Southern portions): RED = sailing

We got away by mid June, and enjoyed (mostly) 7 weeks cruising on Pelagia. 

Approximately 4 weeks were spent in the Broughtons, with not quite 2 weeks in Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area. The Broughtons were not at all crowded (though busier than past) and the daytime temperatures comfortable (14-17 degrees C). Desolation Sound by late July/early August was crazy over-crowded, made worse by being too hot. 

Typical weather in the Broughtons

As we've suggested before, spending much time in Desolation Sound in July and August isn't worth it ... just too crowded. Too many boaters with many not exactly being considerate of others.

One thing we noticed: a significant percentage of USA boats were not flying their USA flag. Perhaps embarassed? A small percentage flew neither their USA flag nor a Canadian "courtesy" flag. Who did they think they were fooling? (Perhaps they were just "unaware" of normal, accepted practice.) As far as we could tell, USA boats were treated well here in Canada, just like any other boats.    

In total, our trip to/from the Broughtons was 626 nautical miles, of which we sailed 164 nm (about 26%, not terrible). And we did have some great sails: down Johnstone Strait with winds from behind reaching 30 kn at Fanny Island; all the way up Malaspina Strait for out longest sail (37 nm).

 

We anchored out 37 nights and stayed 11 nights at docks (as usual, our favourite was/is Sointula, which we visited 2x). We anchored in 4 new-to-us anchorages (2 of them twice because we liked them so much).

It might have been cooler and more comfortable up in the Broughtons (though certainly not sunbathing or ocean swimming weather), but we really only had 3 days of true rain. Fog and drizzle, however, were regular. 

We had a couple weeks cruising with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, up to Sointula. Sadly, they had to leave us, and we missed them.  



 

Unfortunately, we had to cut short our trip due to some persistent muscle/tendon aches and pains that needed attending by a physio and doctor back home. These problems made long walks, hiking or kayaking difficult. 

We hope to get better clarity on the aches and pains and to be able to go back out on Pelagia late August or more likely September. And by then the Summer crowds will have substantially decreased.

 [Photos to come.]  

 

Wednesday, 2 July 2025

Made it to the Broughtons!

Canada Day in Sointula

Four relaxing days/nights at the dock in Sointula.

Pelagia sailing across to Cullen Harbour (July 2) 


Follow our location:

Tuesday, 17 June 2025

And we're off! (Summer 2025)

After weeks of plumbing repairs 😢 on Pelagia by David, we're finally off.

Headed up to Pender Harbour yesterday (Monday), even getting a nice sail for almost half the way.

Today we are headed up Malaspina Strait with 10-20 kn winds behind... great easy sailing! Hope to get to Desolation Sound today.
 
[Update: Indeed, we had a great sail from Cape Cockburn (pronounced "coburn") to Cortes Island.]  

Current plans are 6 (maybe 7-8) weeks on the boat, going at least as far as Sointula and the Broughtons.


You can follow us here:
https://track.myzoleo.com/livelocation?edibh9jc5d

Wednesday, 23 April 2025

Springtime sail

Anchored in Pirates Cove

Spring has definitely returned to southwestern British Columbia!

We got away for a 4-night/5-day cruise to and from the Gulf Islands over the Easter weekend. Mostly sunny weather. We started out with 2 nights on a mooring buoy in Montague Harbour, 1 night anchored in Clam Bay, and finally 1 night anchored in Pirates Cove. (It has been years since we last anchored in Pirates Cove, as it is usually overcrowded and notorious for anchor dragging. But is was nearly empty and calm this Easter.)

Finished off with a good sail fully across Georgia Strait after transiting Gabriola Passage.


 
At end of the sailing, off Stanley Park, starting the engine we found no water pumping out. We quickly dropped anchor and David troubleshooted things, including pulling the raw water pump impeller (which was OK). Putting it all back together, all was working fine. We think the bouncy sail produced an air lock in the raw water circuit, something we've never seen on Pelagia. We arrived back at home berth, perhaps 2 hours late.

A very nice weekend (despite the drama at the end).

Easter 2025 cruise: motor (blue) and sail (green)