One week in Samos (Northern Aegean, Greece)

Ormos (with harbour) and Kampos (Mt. Kerkis behind) 

We have just spent a week on Samos. We had up to 2 weeks and thought we might split it between different places on the island.

First up was Ormos  Marathokampou (usually just referred to as "Ormos"). A small village, with good harbour for sailboats and fishboats. We initially booked 4 nights in this quiet village. Quiet in the day, it became busy at dinner with tourists from nearby (5 min drive) Kampos. 

We did a short hike one day (from Potami to some waterfalls) and another day, we drove around most of the island. We checked out Pythagoreio and Samos Town as possible places to stay in. Pythagoreio was cute but packed with tourists. Samos Town is a real working town/city with it's waterfront undergoing upgrades. But is was not yet there (for us) and the area with cafés and restaurants had a bad sewage smell, so that was out. We also looked a Kokkari, another touristy town with lots of cafés and restaurants. In the end, we decided to stay longer in Ormos, as none of these grabbed our interest.

 

On the Potami waterfalls hike

Potami beach

View from Ormos town beach

Sailboat anchored off Ormos (many more at the docks)

 

Ormos

Lots (!) of cats to join us at dinner

We've had several good meals (and some so-so ones) and many wonderful Greek salads. The cats and Michelle have bonded (for as long as cats are interested...). But we've decided 7 nights is more than enough for our visit to Samos.  David catching a bad cold hasn't helped (likely on the 2 flights from Milan to Athens to Samos).

Today we catch a ferry to a favourite island of ours: Syros.

Via Claudia Augusta: Last days (Trento, Rivalta, Verona)

to Verona...

Day 8: Bike from Auer to Trento. Mostly flat, along the Adige River. All on separated bike paths.

 

Adige River and Dolomites

 

Flat bike path along the Adige

Trento is a rather large city... too busy for us. As we felt with Merano, we prefer the smaller towns/villages.  Also, we felt Trento to be a little to self absorbed. (To be fair, we were not in Trento long enough to get to know ut.) It didn't help our hotel was the "Grand Hotel Trento", which was rather fancy yet dated and lacking character or comfort (the rooms were not as good as out country inns). We were surprised to hear a lot of American accents.*

* Sorry if we sound "anti American"... it's hard these days with the USA actively attacking Canada both verbally and certainly economically. Most Canadians are quite disgusted (and dismayed)... all, hopefully, will resolve in the coming years.  

 

Trento

Day 9: Bike from Trento to Rivalta. As with other cities, a bit convoluted getting out of Trento by bike route, but once out, it was an easy, flat (or slight downhill) to the very small village of Rivalta. Cloudy in the morning but soon sunny and very warm. Our hotel there was a small family-run inn (Albergo Olivo), where we had a comfortable room (with AC), very good dinner, and zero other tourists. Not much English spoken, but everyone made it work. We very much appreciated being out of the city!

 

a

Castel Beseno

Our ritual: Morning tea time along the route

Albergo Olivo (Rivalta)

Enjoying a post-ride beer (alcohol-free) at the Olivo

Day 10: Our final day of biking, from Rivalta to Verona.  Another sunny day (low 20s C). Had a short "crisp" uphill (as described by our bike company app) to Rivoli Veronese, site of a major battle in January 1797 (Napolean's first major victory). 

Half-way up to Rivoli Veronese, Michelle takes a rest (looking North, up the Adige river)

Fort Rivoli (formerly known as Fort Wohlgemuth)

The rest of the way was gently downhill to Verona. Arriving Verona, still on bike paths, was a little hectic, made easier by our hotel being just off the bike path and outside of the centre. 

All-in-all, a lovely day of riding making a successful end to our 510+ km, 10-day bike ride through the Alps. No rain (in the daytime), and Michelle did it all on a regular bike (in contrast to David on an e-bike)!

 

Celebratory drinks in Verona's Piazza Bra

Check-in message from PelagiaZOLEO ZOLEO Device Details Device: PelagiaZOLEO IMEI: 300434066100130 Message: I'm OK. My location is 45.43992, 10.97213 Check-in sent at: 22 Sep 2026 11:38:53 (UTC) View on map ZOLEO Inc.

Via Claudia Augusta biking: Tirol (Austria) and Südtirol (Italy)

Michelle biking towards Italy and the Reschen Pass

Day 4: A short bike ride (15 km) from Füssen to reach Reutte (Tirol, Austria), where we put our bikes on a trailer and were shuttled over the Fern Pass to Fernstein Castle, where we started our ride (mostly downhil) to Imst.

 

Our hotel in Imst (Hotel Neuner)

It rained heavily at night in Imst, but again, we were lucky... the sun came out the next day.

Day 5: A 1.5 hour bike ride to Landeck where we again shuttled over the steep uphill section of the Austrian side of the Reschen Pass to Nauders. We still had 150m of gentle biking into Italy over the pass (which is wide and relatively flat at its actual high point) to out inn in St. Valentin auf der Haide.

Again, a night of heavy rain that cleared up by the next morning.

Day 6:  Another beautiful sunny day and a LOT of downhill riding. And a long ride... about 75 km to Merano. Many villages, many castles... and many bike riders.

Looking back towards St Valentin and the Haidersee

Glurns

Day 7: Leaving the relatively big city of Merano, we had an easy ride gently downhill to near Bolzano. From there, the bike route surprised us with a twisty 150m climb. Through narrow tunnels with too many other bikers. (Especially the racing types, none which you hear coming up from behind you... noone uses their voice or bell to warn you. We found them to be obnoxious, and had our private terms for them... sometimes said out loud as they passed by too close and too fast.). Ended up in the nice little village of Auer, as it turns out, our last night in German-speaking Südtirol.

 

Michelle exiting tunnel on bike rout up to St. Michael (a very busy route!)

 

the racing types...

Via Claudia Augusta Biking: Augsburg to Füssen

First day to Landsberg am Lech: mostly flat, countryside biking. No traffic. Tired by the end (we weren't used to being on bikes for 4 hours).

 

 

Alcohol-free Dunkel-Weisen: Excellent!

Augsburg Cathrdral (Dom): Oldest stained glass windows...

Augsburg 

Entry to alt stadt (old town) of Landsberg am Lach

Landsberg festival

We got lucky with the rain. Heavy rain overnight in Landsberg, sunny by morning. Day 2: A very nice bike ride to Schöngau.

St. Michael's Basilica: 1220 AD. (Altenstadt)

Day 3: An even better day of biking, from Schöngau to Füssen.

Beautiful biking between Schöngau and Füssen. Alps in the distance

One of many (!) Via Claudia Augusta information boards along the way

Just before Füssen, the bike trail became very busy. Füssen itself was very (!) busy, including North American tourists (lots of Americans... not seenelsewhere on this bike tour).

 

We arrived Füssen early enough, so David insisted Michelle see Neuschwanstein Castle. BIG mistake. An overcrowded zoo. (He visited last in 1979... it wasn't crowed back then.) We squeezed into an overcrowded overheated bus like sardines (not helped by the USA tour group who jumped the long line, urged by their leader to do so), ran to take a photo from the overcrowded Marienbrucke and then ran back through the approaching new crowds to the bus. Michelle was clear: Never do that to me again!

 

Neuschwanstein Castle (NOT worth dealing with the crowds!)

 

Cow symphony...

 

Along the bike route...

Bicycling the Via Claudia Augusta: Augsburg to Verona

 

Via Claudia Augusta

Back to Europe (finally!).

First, 10-day inn-to-inn cycling trip along the Via Claudia Augusta, from Augsburg (Germany) through the alps to Verona, Italy. A self-guided but organized trip. (Inntours provides luggage transport, hotel bookings AND transport over two passes in the Alps.)

 After the bike trip, we head to Greece for two weeks. 

Summer 2026: 6 weeks on Pelagia

 

A trip similar to Summer 2025. We started late due to new engine installation, so we didn't go above Cape Caution. Total of about 600 nm.

Quite a bit of rain in the Broughtons, but enough sun to keep us happy. It was great to be in cooler (15-23 degrees C) temps and no wildfire smoke.

Managed to get about 60 nm of sailing.

New engine was great. However, we had a very strange issue where we found the bolts on the coupling between the propeller shaft and transmission all loose (indeed,3 were off!). This despite David having checked their tightness 50-hrs earlier (running time). We have our suspicions as to how this came about.

Funny episode was kayaking into Booker Lagoon on a spring tide... and getting stuck inside before the current allowed us to paddle back out to our boat (2 hours later). A real newbie mistake (it could have been worse, we could have been stuck for 4-5 hours). We were able to laugh about it.

Waiting out the tide in Booker Lagoon....

 

As usual, we had an excellent sail back down Johnstone Strait -- NW winds 27-25 kt made it easy and reasonably fast. 

Only one new-to-us anchorage this summer (Percy Anchorage, near Nanaimo). 

After a week relaxing in the Desolation Sound area, we had a sail to Pender Harbour (where we stayed 3 nights at the VRC outstation), then another sail across to Percy Anchorage. We briefly detoured to Clam Bay in the Gulf Islands to meet up with Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter. We had one last good sail across Georgia Strait, completing our Summer trip at our VRC berth.

   

To the Broughtons and Cape Caution (almost)

Bit gloomy in Beware Passage

We did an (unusual for us) dinner time transit north through the Yaculta rapids. Easy transit with few other vessels and no gin palaces roaring though (a welcome change). But not arriving to anchorage (Bickley Bay) til 9'ish pm a pain. Then we had an easy, albeit motor, trip up Johnstone Strait  A few days in the Broughtons the several in Sointula and 1 night provisioning in Port McNeill.

Yesterday, we decided to setup for going around Cape Caution, motoring 6 hrs to just SE of Caution at Miles Inlet (a favourite).

This morning (Saturday), conditions were perfect for going up and around Cape Caution. BUT the weather forecast above Caution for the next 5+ days had 20-30 (!) knot winds every day (plus rain, etc). It sounded depressing. Given our late leaving for this Summer's cruise, we decided to turn back.

Maybe next year....

Right now, we are heading towards Wells Passage, calm seas, little wind. 

See many sea otters along the way.

Rain and some winds are forecast here too (but not so bad... no "30 knots" in forecast... yet).

(We spent the following 3 nights in Napier Bay, with no winds. Lots of rain. Bears. And some walking.) 
 

Sun comes out for kayaking (Mimkwamlis village site)

Summer 2026: Vancouver to Bargain Bay (Pender Harbour)

This Summer, our "live" location (maybe 1/2 day behind) can be found here:       https://track.myzoleo.com/livelocation?se1aV0V8QD  

Finally! We got away for our Summer 2026 cruising... with our new engine! 

A little late (we usually leave in mid June). We "plan" on being out 6 weeks, at least getting up to the Broughtons.

Today, we left late (due to low tide), but made it up to Bargain Bay. Even managed an easy sail (SE winds) for about half of it. 

(On the way, we looked into Secret Cove to possibly anchor for the night, but locals had placed buoys -- not real "mooring" buoys -- and crab pots, making it uninviting to anchor. This is a problem throughout B.C.'s south coast. So we continued on to Bargain Bay, which was lovely.)

A new "iron genny" for Pelagia! (Betamarine Beta50)

Installed: Pelagia's new Betamarine BETA50

 HAPPY CANADA DAY! 

Our trusty Yanmar (4JHTE) was getting on in years (37 yrs!) and hours (~6600 hrs). It was running well but showed several signs of upcoming issues, some quite pricey. (We received a "worst-case" scenario quote of C$22k!)

We decided to repower. 

We looked into getting a new Yanmar, but were put off by several issues: (i) Yanmar's base price was 2x a Betamarine Beta50, (ii) the Yanmar technology was more-advanced "common rail" relying on a electrical control unit (ECU) -- the problem was this would be more sensitive to fuel issues and any repairs would require a Yanmar dealer/mechanic, something not easily found North of Campbell River, and (iii) for the install, the local Yanmar dealer required Pelagia to be hauled out for an unspecified duration (add $$) and there have been issues with work timing here in Vancouver.

We decided on a Betamarine Beta50. The engine is a marinized version of a Kubota tractor engine, so parts and diesel mechanics are easily available. The technology is more simple, thus easier to maintain and repair.

The installation was done by the Canadian Beta distributor Gartside Marine Engines in Sidney BC. We were able to bring Pelagia to their dock and the Yanmar removal and Beta50 install done while Pelagia was still in the water. (There was no charge for time at Gartside's docks.) 

Sad seeing the old Yanmar out of the boat...

 

Of course, the install took longer than planned (well, welcome to boats...), and Pelagia's 3-blade fixed propeller had to be "re-pitched" twice. The first sea trial resulted in smooth engine running but the engine RPMs couldn't get up to the 2800 specifications. This meant a 2nd propeller re-pitch was required. Also, the propeller produced a very loud "singing" for RPMs between 1000-2000 rpm -- something the propeller wizards could correct. The 2nd re-pitching added another week, BUT the end result was success: no more propeller singing and no problem getting RPM up to 2800.  

We've had a few cruising days with the new engine: 2 between the second re-pitching (as the problems were discovered on a Friday), and 4 getting the boat back home to Vancouver (including a raucous sail across Georgia Strait).

Gartside also completed some other improvements, such as (i) all-new sound insulation of the engine room after cleaning, (ii) moving the external regulator so that it is now easily accessible, and (iii) new raw water strainer that was moved to a new, easily accessible location.

We also purchased (as an addon) a "NMEA2000" module for the Beta50. David ran cables and hooked this up to our existing NMEA2000 network (upgraded to allow more instruments) yesterday and now we have engine RPM, TEMP and OIL PRESSURE on our chartplotter in the cockpit.

Furuno chartplotter engine display (sample)

SO FAR, we're happy with our new Beta50. The process took longer (4 weeks rather than 2 weeks) than expected, wasn't cheap (but FAR FAR LESS that what a Yanmar installed in Vancouver would have cost us!). We definitely would recommend Gartside Marine Engines (Sidney, BC). 

Hopefully it keeps Pelagia going for many years to come.    

Now for some Summer cruising.... 

D's hip replacement...

 

6 weeks post-op, all going well. No longer need the cane to walk. Follow-up with surgeon today indicates all well. X-rays show cracked femur has healed well  (break occurred during hip replacement procedure). 

Fingers crossed for some hiking this Summer (and Fall), sailing (!) and, hopefully, back skiing next season.  

Quick getaway... 2 weeks in Thailand

Prinz Garden Villa pool

 

Lousy weather, lousy skiing, and some time before D's hip replacement: we decided last-minute to head to Hua Hin Thailand for 2 weeks (deciding/booking only 1 week in advance is very last-minute for us).

An easy short holiday. Good flights on ANA. All connections went well to and from.

In contrast to April 2023, the air quality in Hua Hin in January was much better -- not a problem.

 

As always, food was a highlight.

Tom Yum noodles soup at a street stand -- delicious

 

 Favourite restaurant was a new (to us) place featuring Northern Thailand food: "Khao Soi".

 

Khao Soi with crispy chicken

 

Breakfasts were included in our hotel deal. Almost all lunches were inside the air-conditioned food court at the nearby "Bluport Mall" (best Pad Thai!). 

 

We went to the beach a couple times, but only for walks (laying around on a beach is not our thing):

Hua Hin beach

 

A nice little trip. And no one caught a cold etc when we returned... bonus! 

 

No sailing this Fall...

 

 

We had planned to head out for 5-7 days over Canadian Thanksgiving (October). But Thursday before Thanksgiving, David came down with a bad cold that shut him down for a couple days. And the weather that weekend was truly horrible, with torrential rains.

Weather for the rest of the Fall continued to be pretty lousy.

So, no trips out on Pelagia this Fall. 

Last sail of the Summer (2025): 2 weeks in the Gulf Islands

 

Pelagia anchored at Russell Island

One last getaway this Summer: two weeks in the Gulf Islands. Lots of visiting friends and family, a new-to-us anchorage, and some places we haven't visited for a long time.

 

September 2025 route (red = sailing)

ITINERARY

Night 1: Kendrick Island (A)

Night 2: Clam Bay (A)

Night 3: Maple Bay Yacht Club (D)

Night 4: Russell Island (A*)

Night 5: Deep Cove (A)

Night 6: Tod Inlet (A)

Night 7: Ganges VRC dock (D)

Night 8: Montague Hbr  (B)

Nights 9 & 10: Winter Cove (A)

Nights 11 & 12: Otter Bay VRC dock (D)

Night 13: Clam Bay (A)

Night 14: Vancouver home berth  

First a nice, gentle sail across the strait to Kendrick Island/Dogfish Bay (becoming a favourite). Empty at first (1 other boat), but quickly 6-7 other boats came in after us (including 1 local boat that insisted on anchoring on top of our anchor... re-anchoring, they still seemed to need to be awfully close). Hey, it isn't supposed to be crowded in mid September!

Next day, a motor through Gabriola Passage (2-3 kn ebb) then a no-wind motor down to Clam Bay. Again, it became busy (although, not "crowded"). D takes a dinghy ride through the Cut and buys a peach pie at the Howling Wolf Farm shop while a white horse hopes for food. 

Nothing for me? (Actually, D bought an apple for him, but he disappeared.)

Next morning (another sunny day), we see a boat having trouble getting its anchor up. The middle portion of the Clam Bay anchorage seems to have many reports of a fouled bottom. (We mark the location along with other boats' past issues. An area to avoid!) 

Next day (Day 3), we have a dinner-on-Pelagia with a longtime sail and work friend who we haven't seen since pre-Covid times! We moor at the Maple Bay Yacht Club reciprocal dock.  A good get together. 

Following day, we head to new-to-us Russell Island, following a reconnoitre of the anchorage in Deep Cove near D's sister's house. She had warned me that there were now many mooring buoys. All empty. Turns out, an owner in  Deep Cove who doesn't even own a boat to be moored has put several buoys in. Really screwing up the anchorage and REALLY INCONSIDERATE (looking at you Ripley!). We decide we can still anchor next day, but much farther out and deeper than we used to. We continue on to Russell.

Deep Cove: Filled with unused private mooring buoys. Not nice!

Russell Island's anchorage was glassy calm but busier that we expected. Still, we find a spot for the night and go for a nice walk (and picked a few heritage apples). The bottom is a bit rocky so holding a bit so-so, and the anchorage somewhat open. Would not want to be here when the winds are blowing. Still, a quiet night.

Russell Island anchorage (Pelagia is 2nd boat from left)

Next day, back to buoy-filled Deep Cove. A long row to shore ('cause we anchored far out in 60 feet) but we had a very nice evening with family. Haven't anchored here since pre-Covid.

Next day was Tod Inlet (near Butchart Gardens). Maybe 13+ years since we've been here. The anchorage was very busy -- almost Desolation-Sound-crowded (OK, not quite... apparently it does get overcrowded in July-August). Nevertheless, we find a good spot. We then meet ex-cruiser buddies (formerly of SV Carousel) Gillian and David out at the road, and go out for lunch and then a walk around Brentwood Bay.

Time to get a few food items etc*, so next day we head over to Ganges on Saltspring Island and get lucky finding a spot on the VRC outstation dock.  (*we could easily have shopped near Brentwood Bay.)

We found Ganges too busy and the marina not-so-welcoming, so we decided to stay just 1 night. Next day we were going to go to Winter Cove, but southerly winds made it a bit bouncy, so we headed in to Montague Harbour. There were lots of buoys available (indeed a couple remained all night -- finally, the crowds seemed to be dwindling). 

Next day, it was calm and we motored down to Winter Cove. Only a few boats so lots of room for anchoring. Sunny and calm, we went for a walk and went kayaking. So nice, we stayed 2 nights.

Boat Passage, Winter Cove

Required selfie: At Winter Point (Saturna Is) with mainland mountains behind

 

We have another (our last) get together the next day over on North Pender Island. Space was available at the VRC dock (both spaces!) at Otter Bay Marina. Later, we are picked up by cruising buddies Wayne and Lee (of SV Chanter) and we have an enjoyable dinner with them at their home (during which, we get to see Wayne's fantastic trains).

Wayne among his trains (which are impressive)

Next day called for big NW winds in the Strait of Georgia (25-30 kt) and likely some in the islands. We decided to stay put on the dock at Otter Bay. Woke up to ashes all over the boat (from forest fires on the Olympic Peninsula, not Mt. St. Helens); D surreptitiously did a quick rinse off ("no boat washing" allowed... though later many other did more thorough washes). Sunny and warm, we even went for a swim in one of the marina's two pools.

Next day, the winds were down to 10-12 kn so we headed up to Clam Bay, to get ready for a morning transit of Porlier Pass and hopefully a sail across the strait (and hopefully not too strong winds). A quiet night in Clam Bay, with fewer boats than previous time.

Our last day, we indeed had a good sail back across Georgia Strait from outside of Porlier Pass: started out NW 17kt but very soon decreased to about 12-13 kt. An easy sail, although heeled-over for awhile at the start. Winds died at the Pt. Grey bell buoy.

An excellent 2-week cruise in the Gulf Islands, fun catching up with friends and family. Mostly motoring but bookended with good sailing on the first and last days.